Grummy wrote:Actually, you do have an "A-Frame", it just that they built the trailer walls to use/create all of the space possible.
If it were my trailer, I'd hang NOTHING on the outside of that V-Nose. It's too pretty.
I'd build a weather tight, smell tight, rigid bulkhead out of aluminum, across the trailer INSIDE, just back far enough to fit everything you want in this new nose cavity. It can be done with thin aluminum angle and the same .030" aluminum sheet, all pop riveted in place. After, caulk everything tight, Upholster accordingly... Oh, and consider proper access doors in it if necessary during the build.
I would then add 2 of the flushest mount radius topped doors or hatches in matching color to the nose walls, one on each side for access to the equipment (hinges forward), and finally cut in whatever venting, top/bottom that would be proper. Now you have an designated equipment "room".
Everyone tends to add a pile of stuff to the A-frame of a cargo trailer conversion, kind of just because there is unused space there. I myself have a custom box on my A-Frame tongue. I get it !
But I'm not a fan of "cobble". The last thing that looks nice on the nose of a trailer is a mini split with tubes poking thru holes gobbled with drippy caulk to keep the 60mph rain from coming in when your on the road. We have all seen it. (apologies to those who have given better consideration to how it looks).
Of concern however is that mfg axle placements never take into account that people are doing this, so when you design the rest of your trailer layout and loads, people need to take that extra tongue weight into account and make sure your trailer is properly balanced and that the tow vehicle is actually up to the job.
Lastly, I've mentioned it before, but I think the ultimate cargo conversion really consists of a flat nose trailer, with a full height V-Nose add on... One with cargo doors, shelves etc, specifically there for a Utility/Garage room, capable of separating all the mechanicals like HVAC, Propane, Solar Controls, and gear. Again however, axle placement and trailer design can come under scrutiny to be done right.
You essentially can have the same thing if you "Build the Wall" ! Good Luck !
Very interesting and something I didn't even think about. So if I understand what you are saying, I would wall off the V nose and install exterior doors for access? That was how the horse trailers we used at work before I retired were set up. Now you got the creative juices flowing. And a rectangular interior "living" area would be easier to work out the floor plan. Since it is a 7x16, that still leaves plenty of usable interior space. And then I wouldn't have to find a welder and screw around with the tongue or outside frame.
I do have some concerns though. My understanding was that propane tanks were not supposed to be installed inside the trailers. But I guess if it is walled off and completely separated, that would be very similar. Obviously it would have to be vented. I could install salem vents mounted on opposite sides in different directions to allow air flow. or even use 2 small 12v fans, one pulling air in and one pushing air out.
And as far as the "outside" unit for the mini split, what concerns would there be if I was to mount that in this utility room? Is there a required amount of air flow necessary for them to function properly? I have to agree that they look strange on the tongue and would look better hidden away. That's one nice thing about the roof AC units as they are not very visible.
Having a dedicated utility room and using a mini split would also answer one of my possible issues. I had seen where most would mount the inside unit as far forwards towards the front which in my case would be on the v-nose interior wall. That would put the output at an angle. By having a separate "utility" room, I would now have a rectangular living area and mount interior unit on that wall and it would face directly to the rear and be more efficient?
These are great ideas and would tremendously help out with the exterior appearance like you mention. And I am oh too familiar with proper tongue weight and in agreement about axle placement. On my toyhauler, I really need to have my trike loaded and all the way to rear if I want to run a full fresh water tank for my trips. And I still end up packing a lot of stuff around the trike in order to keep the tongue weight in the 13-15% weight range. I had wanted to use 2-30lb propane tanks on it but along with battery and a full fresh water tank, it started increasing tongue weight more than what I wanted so I went back to the 20lb ones. I haven't delved too far in to that yet with this cargo trailer but it is also going to get used to haul my trike as well. So that will definitely need to be taken into account.
And finally, in regards to the extra room, could I get away with just a single door, probably on the passenger side which would leave more wall real estate for the mechanicals? and then the question of insulating comes up. Would I still insulate the v-nose outside walls and ceiling too just like a regular conversion or would I only add insulation to the back of the newly created wall?
Going with these ideas would also allow me to keep a more stealthier look which I think I would like. I still want at least 1 window on each side but might consider smaller 14x22 to tuck in between the walls studs. It would be nice to not have to mess with cutting any studs other than up front to install the utility room door(s).
Thank you and I very much appreciate your post. Hopefully you can help iron out some of my concerns.
by mikeyk101 » Tue Aug 29, 2023 10:40 pm