cdnred wrote:Looking from the inside, the previous owner had installed a screened opening to the rear hatch area. It maybe simpler to install a powered vent in the rear hatch cover to minimize the rework needed to install in the roof. Thoughts.?
Tom&Shelly wrote:The first teardrops (in the 30's and 40's) didn't have roof vents. Instead, they had vents on the walls near the roofs with louvered metal plates to keep the rain out. I wouldn't do that--I'd at least have something that would close, but computer fans there might be an alternative to consider.
Just some ideas. Hope they might help!
Tom
I was surprised one morning, in Ohio, to see the dew condensed on our walls where I had not hogged out the 3/4 inch plywood core and added foam. Not sure how that would work with an aluminum roof, but it might be a way to see where the cross members are. You might also try a stud finder from the interior. Some good ones might even be able to tell where the wire runs are.
Tom
Honestly, I think you need to camp in it once or twice and see how it works as is.
Tom
Tom&Shelly wrote:...Another thing to consider: The first teardrops (in the 30's and 40's) didn't have roof vents. Instead, they had vents on the walls near the roofs with louvered metal plates to keep the rain out. I wouldn't do that--I'd at least have something that would close, but computer fans there might be an alternative to consider....
where I show my rain-proof side vents...
tony.latham wrote:where I show my rain-proof side vents...
Out of curiosity, why didn't you install a ceiling vent fan?
Tony
The doors had two screened windows. It had two 4" louvers in the galley walls and a computer fan in the bulkhead. Without the louvers, there was no way the fan could move air.
It wasn't enough. I added a second computer fan in the bulkhead. It still wasn't enough.
I wish I had an answer, but I can tell you this: when we got a tour of a 5'-wide with a ceiling fan, I was making sawdust three weeks later.
Tony
The best spot would be directly overhead in the cabin but without knowing the location of the framing makes it a costly venture ...
I think it was Tom who said there are some stud finders that will show you where they are, and I'm sure he's right. And I don't think they're the $10 ones that find drywall nails.
If you could find a 14"-wide spot, I think it would be possible to make the cut and insert framing from inside the hole.
Tony
Pmullen503 wrote:+1 on venting through the side walls or under the hatch. I'd hate to cut a hole in an intact roof.
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