Pine’s Teardrop build

[nrhmaine]

Snow day today, so we got in an hour of work before dinner.

Made a jig for the router to cut 15/32” dados, and got all the dados cut in the sidewalls.



More on Saturday. Hoping to get the cabinetry and walls to a dry-fit this weekend.

- Nate and Pine


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[nrhmaine]

It’s been almost a year since we got started. Here’s a little progress update (followed by a question)










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[nrhmaine]

A question on main shutoff switch(es)

I’d like to turn off all loads so I plan to have a main shutoff. But I’d like chargers (AC and Solar) to still run, so I may put the “main” shutoff after a fuse block that has solar controller and ac charger connections. Do those also deserve a switch? Or can those just be left live all the time? (For service I can pull the fuse, but I just don’t know if those should be shut off routinely?)

Thanks, Nate


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[nrhmaine]

And one more shot showing the folding couch/matress. This seems like it will work great! Easy solution for sitting and sleeping in the cabin.



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[Tom&Shelly]

A question on main shutoff switch(es)

I’d like to turn off all loads so I plan to have a main shutoff. But I’d like chargers (AC and Solar) to still run, so I may put the “main” shutoff after a fuse block that has solar controller and ac charger connections. Do those also deserve a switch? Or can those just be left live all the time? (For service I can pull the fuse, but I just don’t know if those should be shut off routinely?)

Thanks, Nate


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Great work!

I did the same thing and did not include a switch for the solar controller. Note most (all?) solar controllers warn against disconnecting it from the battery with a solar panel connected, so shutting it off from the battery could actually damage it if you do it wrong.

I also charge from the tow vehicle and do not have a shut off switch for that mode. My main cut off switch does dissconnect the battery from the AC charger/converter. I can't remember why I did it that way, it might be a mistake.

Tom

[tony.latham]

Tony

[nrhmaine]

Electrical is done, so exterior skin is next (1/8” okume, then anodized aluminum)






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[Pmullen503]

Really nice work!

[nrhmaine]

Thank you!
Determined to have this done by May, when my work schedule starts to get busy through the summer season.

[TimC]

First Class build!

[nrhmaine]

Thanks!

Got the ceiling insulated today.


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[nrhmaine]

Nice to see that curve!

Still a ways to go, but it’s looking like a camper now.


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[nrhmaine]

Thinking ahead to installing aluminum skin and RV trim, and I've got a question for you all.

I plan to float the aluminum, putting a bead of flexible adhesive (LEXEL) around the edge and around cut-outs. Then the edge trim will be installed over the wall to roof joint. I'm considering first putting 3M flashing tape https://www.dhcsupplies.com/category-3M-All-Weather-Flashing-Tape.html across the roof/wall joint, on top of the aluminum skin, and then screwing the trim over that. Then I'd use sealant when installing screws through the RV trim.

I haven't seen much mention of flashing tape on this forum, and no mention of it used in this way.

In home construction, this stuff is regarded as permanently waterproof, and it goes around curves very well because it's stretchy. 3M says it's self-healing around fasteners too. (Though I plan use sealant under the RV trim at screw holes, and around screw heads as well.)

Any thoughts about this?
Thanks, Nate

[nrhmaine]

The exterior is coming together.

Anodized aluminum skin (it’s silver - the pink and blue are just protective film). Stapled at the edges, and stuck down with sealant at edges and around all openings.




Geocel 4500 seems to work great. Remains flexible, and has more adhesion than others I experimented with. And it’s $10/tube. I’m using it to bed windows as well (anything with black trim, as it only comes in black)



For items that aren’t black, I’m using OSI Quad Max clear.





The roof has two seams, as the tear is 61.5” wide. On those seams I stapled the first sheet to a cross spar, then used 3M VHB tape made for smooth-sided trailers - CV45F. (3M has good Documents online telling how to do this effectively.)
I used no fasteners on the top sheet. Just the VHB tape, and then OSI quad max sealant to finish it off.
If it’s good enough for horse trailers, I figure it’ll work in this application.




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[nrhmaine]

Hatch spars have been milled and epoxy laminated.


Each spar is laminated from two 1/2” okume ply. (Lightweight, waterproof, and, importantly, leftover from boat-building)

I’ve been avoiding assembly - probably I’m nervous about spring-back when I skin it. Maybe today’s the day to bite the bullet.