Thermoelectric fridge

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Thermoelectric fridge

Postby mikeschn » Tue Aug 08, 2006 8:35 pm

Can someone help me out? It's late and I'm tired, and these numbers don't look right...

I just bought a thermoelectric fridge for the Escape Hatch. It's a 65 Watt Fridge, running at 110 volts.

I want to know how much of a drain that is on my battery.

So I divide 65 by 110 and I get .591 amps per hour. Does that sound right?

(Watts=AmpsxVolts)

or Watts/Volts = Amps


Oh wait, I see the problem... I want to run this at 12 volts on an inverter...

so I divide 65 by 12 and I get 5.4 amps. That sounds right.

So I can drain an 80 amp battery to halfway in about 7.4 hours.

Good thing my first campout is going to have access to electric! :D

Mike...
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Postby PaulC » Tue Aug 08, 2006 8:48 pm

Mike, Is this one of those units that only drops to about 20 degrees below ambient temp? If so, I think you will find that and icebox will be a better proposition. JMHO
Have a look here:
http://www.exploroz.com/vehicle/accessories/fridges.asp#WhatType


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Re: Thermoelectric fridge

Postby bdosborn » Tue Aug 08, 2006 9:10 pm

mikeschn wrote:
so I divide 65 by 12 and I get 5.4 amps. That sounds right.

So I can drain an 80 amp battery to halfway in about 7.4 hours.

Good thing my first campout is going to have access to electric! :D

Mike...


BUT, the inverter isn't 100% efficient, more like about 80% for a cheaper one (assuming you're using an inverter). Figure your amp draw will be more like 5.4/0.8=6.75A. So closer to about 6 hours of usage.

BUT, the fridge isn't running all the time. I think I read somewhere that a typical refrigerator duty cycle is about 50%. That puts you back in the 12 hour range.

BUT, its a thermoelectric fridge and I don't know what the duty cycle is for those.

BUT, you're going to plug it in so its all a moot point. ;)

Boy thats a lot of buts.
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Postby Denny Unfried » Tue Aug 08, 2006 10:35 pm

Mike, all of the one's I've found have a duty cycle of 100%. I never use mine except when traveling. It's a 110/12v combo but draws a constant 3 amps.
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Postby ARKPAT » Wed Aug 09, 2006 2:45 am

Mike I have one of those also 12V D.C. / 120 V A.C. Compressor-less Thermo-electric refrigerators. :o
The duty cycle on mine is 100% constant 3 amp. at 12V D.C. current draw and thats not counting the losses thru the 12V D.C. to 120V A.C. power brick.
:shock:
I went with a 120V A.C. and inverter less effecent but has a duty cycle and a lot less battery draw from the inverter of the same time ( 24 hrs. ) span. :thinking:
Also the refrig is cheaper to replace when on sale. :thumbsup:


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Last edited by ARKPAT on Wed Aug 09, 2006 4:19 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby mikeschn » Wed Aug 09, 2006 3:50 am

This is the fridge
http://www.shopdirect.com/Avanti/EC15W- ... ESSID=d51b

It can go as low as 40* below ambient.

And yes, there will be times when an icebox is a better proposition.

I don't know what the duty cycle is.

And I knew the inverter sucked out some juice for itself, but I didn't know how much. Thanks for the 80% tip Bruce.

I still have in mind that I want to build one of those old fashioned ice boxes complete with the brass hardware, but that'll come later.

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Postby Mary K » Wed Aug 09, 2006 10:35 am

For my "research" for building a Tear, I was just talking to my boss (an E.E.) about ac/dc conversions and calculating amps....

He pulled out a note pad and started calculating and I ended up with that deer in the head lamp look. :duh

Mk
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Postby bdosborn » Wed Aug 09, 2006 5:00 pm

mikeschn wrote:And I knew the inverter sucked out some juice for itself, but I didn't know how much. Thanks for the 80% tip Bruce.

Mike...


That's just a rough rule of thumb. The actual efficiency of an inverter is dependant on a couple of factors; the overall efficiency of the device - some inverters are better than others - and how heavily it is loaded. Inverters typically are most efficient when they are heavily loaded. Thats why I would shy away from using a 2,000W inverter unless you have a big load that requires it. For TVs and smaller loads the inverter should only be around 20% or so larger than the load for maximum efficiency. Savy RVers will use a big inverter for house loads and a little 400W for the TV or stereo to maximize battery life. (which is probably more than you wanted to know but here ya go) :lol:
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Postby PaulC » Wed Aug 09, 2006 5:49 pm

mikeschn wrote:I don't know what the duty cycle is.
Mike...


Mike, To the best of my knowledge, thermoelectrics work on a 100% duty cycle. That is, they always run.

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