Wall Technique

[RBB]

Ok... I need some help!
I have the frame decked, and I am ready to build my walls. (I am designing and building my own "standie" based on the look of the classic vintage campers like the Scotties and the Comets.)
I am scratch building so I can make my own decisions on methods... I am not trying to restore or replicate, merely use these old designs as inspiration!
Here is where I am stuck...

What wall method is the best way to proceed. Way I see it I have 3 options:

Option 1: Stick Frame
Like this:https://youtu.be/E6ndV1Kpx9k?si=vBkarDonxQWx11ee&t=1155

Option 1: Stick Frame

wall stickframe.JPG (62.64 KiB) Viewed 1046 times

PRO:
Easy to build out to the right thickness.
Easy to insulate
Easy to line up any seams for exterior skin
Can Build horizontal

CON:
Weight
Complexity
Difficult to get exact profile (curve) I am aiming for


Option 2: Plywood laminated with Luann for the interior finish
Like this:https://youtu.be/psmUb8IL8VE?si=S3VKyU-tf1KVJ6b1&t=464

Option 2: Plywood Laminated

wall plywood.JPG (68.02 KiB) Viewed 1046 times

PRO:
Easy to get exact profile I am looking for.
Easy to cut in individual pieces then mount.

CON:
weight?
difficult/impossible to add insulation
Finished interiors before they can be properly protected.

Option 3: Hybrid - Start with Plywood, the build out wall thickness for insulation and interior finish once exterior sheeting is hung.
Like This: https://youtu.be/I58YwgGhHtY?si=HNicmVRvuCqvef7V&t=508

Option 3: hybrid

walls hybrid.JPG (41.95 KiB) Viewed 1046 times

PRO:
Can tackle on my own.
Exact profile.
Easy to insulate.

CON:
Weight?
Have to hang interior walls after exterior walls are up. (harder to finish?)

Looking for some help... talk me through this... anyone have any insight or advice? Which method did you use? I am 99% working alone, and 99% will have to be built OUTDOORS as my garage is only 7ft tall... Also... may need to winter under a tarp... if i can't get it done before midwest winter! Thoughts?

[Pmullen503]

How about cut out your exterior wall, attach framing that is slightly over sized and the trim the framing with a flush trim router? You could add the interior walls or pre cut them and install later.

[noseoil]

3/4" ply, whittled out, 1/8" BB inside with 3/4" foam insulation & 1/8" BB outside, prior to 0.040" aluminum skins...

[RBB]

Did i just make a BIG mistake?
I designed and cut the lumber for my wall frame this weekend...
And I think I made a fatal mistake...
My intention is to order aluminum skins from Hemet Valley or Macs Aluminum... (I have quotes from both...)
It seems both use 4' rolls to make the skin, so each side is comprised of two sheets of 4' with a seam in the middle, so I designed my frame with a 2x4 at the 48" mark so I have plenty of room for the seam...

Here is the mistake... i measured 48" from the TOP for the seam...
And now that I am thinking about it... I need 48" from the BOTTOM for the seam? Right?

Did I make an OOPS?

48in top vs bottom.JPG (45.38 KiB) Viewed 872 times

[RBB]

UPDATE:
So after sleeping on it for a few days, I finally just went right to the source and I gave Steve a call at Hemet Valley.

Turns out I was kind of right...

SO the standard top half of the aluminum starts as a 48" roll, then the S-Lock is added, which brings the overall width to something like 46".

S-Lock Profile

Screenshot 2024-07-11 112838.png (68.42 KiB) Viewed 836 times

The Bottom Half, also starts with a 48" roll, and the Auto Mold Edge takes away approximately .75" from that...

Auto Mold Profile

Screenshot 2024-07-11 112816.png (38.2 KiB) Viewed 836 times

Here is what I didn't appreciate:

The TOP of the TOP piece can be trimmed to meet the needs of the build, as long as the width does not exceed 46".
(This makes sense because you would trim the top edge to match the profile of your build).

The TOP of the BOTTOM piece can ALSO be trimmed to meet the needs of your build, leaving the Auto Mold at the bottom intact!

The CUT edge of the BOTTOM piece then tucks inside the S-lock, hiding any imperfections, and creating the water tight seal. You still want to be as accurate as possible because you only have approx 1/2" overlap.

The ROOF will bent over the TOP EDGE of the TOP piece creating the water tight seal there!

This all makes perfect sense now that I was explained to me...

Here is a link to the Mobiltec video tour of Hemet Valley... it is a bit old... but helped me understand things further:


And here was one of the Mobiltec videos that really helped me understand the install process!


Hopefully this info will help some other builder figure this stuff out for the first time!