Knox Foam

[steve wolverton]

Hey Guys,

I did a search and saw that Chip & Bev are both using Knox Foam mattresses. Anyone else using them? I'm about to order one, just wanted to be sure there wasn't another company priced similarly. I'm thinking a 4" B grade with a 2.5" eggcrate on top. Full size is what I need. This is probably the most important piece in the camper, and I don't want to mess it up.

Steve

[BrianB]

I've never laid on a foam mattress without my butt sinking to the floor, so I'd be interested in their response too.

I was just going to use a futon since I could remove padding to make a custom fit. I'm surprised how rarely futons are mentioned on here.

[Arne]

I got a 6" thick queen size med. firm from knox for the tear and slept on it for a month.... no complaints.

I also plan on getting a calif. king for my water bed frame at a vacation house..... for the price (compared to tempurpedic) it works fine....

[Steve Frederick]

I've never laid on a foam mattress without my butt sinking to the floor, so I'd be interested in their response too.

We have a 3" foam mattress, made for us by a local bedding company.It works great! I'll probably get the mattress(es) for my Lil'diner from them too. My question is, do you feel that seam where the mattress sections meet? How do y'all make up a sectional bed?

[tdthinker]

I loved sleeping on are 2 inch mattress in are pop-up. They where thick and I never sank in them, they where firm yet sooo soft. I am just going to take a 4 inch thick piece of foam and have it sandwiched down to 2 inches to make the same think and have it apolstered. bye

[AmyH]

I know that other people have done a two layer method, with the bottom layer being the firm grade and the top layer being the medium firm (softer) grade. That sounds really nice to me, so I have thought about going with a 2 inch firm grade lower layer, topped with a 2 inch medium firm grade layer. I have also thought of topping the whole thing with a 1 inch tempurpedic knock-off mattress topper, just for a little extra softness. The knock-offs are really nice and cheap to boot! Plus, those tempurpedic style toppers tend to hold body heat really nicely, so it may make it more comfortable for chilly nights.

Amy

[fornesto]

Based on a request from the wife, I will be building my teardrop around a full-size real mattress (52" wide) that is currently stored in the basement. I realize that once I'm done, the mattress will be permanent and will need to be cut apart to remove. Maybe, I'll design a removable lower bulkheard for access via the galley. I also recognize that I will be losing some head height from the extra inches - the mattress is 6" tall.

As proposed, the interior height (matt. to ceiling) will be 43" - 6" mattress = 37". Is this as bad an idea as I think...?

[Chip]

?finally I sleep good,,I stated out with an air matterace and tried it for a couple times,,it was way to soft and sunk in when trying to sleep or roll over,,I acquired a 1" thick firm foam pad and put it over the air matterace,,then I put a old sleeping bag over the whole thing,,
I dont know if anybody has ever slept on a feather ticked bed from the old days,,well this is close,,its about as comfortable as I could get,,actually it sleeps better than my bed at home,,,hmmmmm good reason to camp more,,

chip

[Denny Unfried]

I started with 4" extra firm from Knox Foam and it was to firm for me. Then added a two inch soft topping from them and now it's just right for me at least. One more advantage of the foam over other mattresses is it's insulating properties. Knox is great to do business with and since they are out of state (for me) there is no sales tax and the shipping is free.

KNOX FOAM

Denny

[tdhombre]

I purchased the 4" Grade "B" foam and tried it out. Turns out I needed more cushioning so I added 2" more and now it works GREAT.

I have been really impressed with Knox. Both orders were shipped clear across the country at the quoted price (which was cheaper than local suppliers could sell it for.)

[Arne]

Knox recommends med, not firm for beds..... firm for cushions (more pounds per sq. inch)...

[Steve Frederick]

Knox recommends med, not firm for beds..... firm for cushions (more pounds per sq. inch)...

How should we do cushions that will fold out for a matress??

[Eric Adams]

Someone have their website (knox)? I think I am going for the LG twin size. I forget what it is called.

[Guest]

Knox recommends med, not firm for beds..... firm for cushions (more pounds per sq. inch)...

How should we do cushions that will fold out for a matress??

Steve,
Whatever you and Mike decide to do about that... Be sure to let me know, I've came real close a couple of times to scrapping my dinette feature, because of the uncertainty of how 4-20" x 60" sections placed next to one another would feel like when sleeping. (Well, and for the fact that I want too much friggin' stuff in the galley)
I brought this up once before and if I'm not mistaken, I think Bev told me that her mattress was configured the same way and that they couldn't "feel the cracks", but now... all this med/firm talk has got me wondering again.

[Larry Messaros]

Steve and Dean,

Here is how mine looked in my camper. I didn't have any problems with "the cracks". The cushions were sewn together along the edge, so there was the base seat and the two smaller sections that would fold out. The 2 smaller sections are against the wall. They wouldn't spread because they were attached together. The only gap that wasn't attached was the middle one which was right over the table, and we didn't seem to have a problem with it.



If memory serves me correctly, the base cushion was about 20" and the 2 backrest cushions were about 8". With the cushion folded up, there would be a gap underneath the small cushion against the wall, but it would leave a seat size of about 17". This is all based on a 3" cushion size. The short size of the back rest made it real comfy for sitting and using as an arm rest.