
BrwBier wrote:I used half axles for a number of reasons. 1. I think they are cheaper, I paid $193 shipped to my door. 2. I think they are lighter, axles and hubs in one box, so it must have been under 70 lbs. 3. I didn't have wheels and tires yet so I couldn't measure the set back and figure the width. 4. I wanted the under side to be as smooth as possible. 5. I just like them.
Brwbier
jyb-tr20 wrote:Hi Folks
Hopefully I can answer a few queries as to why my frame is the way it is: -
As soon as possible I will post a pic to demonstrate how the chassis- frame is level with the tow hitch on my Land Rover. The height is 17.5" from the ground to the hitch.
The box section crossmember keeps it all in line. The idea [to me] is that the TD will travel along the road level behind the car.
I do need some extra ground clearance as the Land Rover is a 4x4- the TD will handle 'off-road' better.
Also I'm fitting an 8" 'footwell' so we can sit at a table inside and drink our tea if it's raining- it does sometimes in England![]()
The axles are rated @ 500 kg [ 1100 lbs] pre-drilled with 6 mounting bolts. The half axle assy. is bolted to the pre-drilled plate [u buy them too ready made] that is welded to the X-member.
Without the Box section crossmember it is much more difficult to 'bolt' the half axles accurately into position. Doing it this way felt like I was working with a 'typical' axle [almost like that of a car].
Also the X-member is sized to suit the clearance of the tyre / wheel / fender alignment so that the wheels run properly outside the body of the TD.
Luckily the axle assy. is so far back it will not interfere with the footwell.
Half axles are light - cheap[er] and easily obtained & fitted- [in my opinion]. I won't be riding in the trailer so anything more complicated is unecassary. I really don't want to pull a trailer over 1100 lbs.
I hope this makes sense?![]()
If not I'll get Andrew to translate!![]()
Cheers
jyb
Return to Trailer and Chassis Secrets
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests