Axle Decisions for another build

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Axle Decisions for another build

Postby Geron » Mon Dec 11, 2006 8:39 pm

Well, I have the 4x8 nuway trailer -- had it for about 20 years now -- and it has a 1200 lb axle under it. Has standard 1" bearings-- NO METRICS!
I'll use the chassis but the axle will have to be altered.

I want to go 5x8 so I looked at a 5' x 2000 lb axle at Tractor Supply
*__Axle $135 (You know what? I didn't notice if it came with hubs) but I have hubs
__ 1750 lb springs $25 each total $50
__ misc hangers and such $20
__ my labor and worry with modifying the chassis for new springs

Total $205 + That's seems just too much to me.

*I can get a torsion axle for about the same!!!! ($185 -$225)

*A new 5x8 Red Trailer $499 + 115 shipping -- $614 -- no way!

*Another option -- "stretch the existing 1200 lb axle to 5' (really a very viable option)

Nothings simple anymore.

I'm thinking Torsion Axle is the way to go with the backup of stretching the existing 1200 lb axle -- comments?

Axle experts: Can I mount the torsion axle to the floor instead of chassis? I think I've seen that done but have been gone for a while. I really can't see why not. The floor will extend 6" beyond the chassis which is only 4' wide and I'm building 5'

I can't believe I'm really this serious about my second Build.

g
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Postby doug hodder » Mon Dec 11, 2006 10:14 pm

Geron...you could always do what JiminSav did on his...bolt directly to the trailer body, no frame at all, except for a tongue. It's worked for him. Check his album...Doug
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Postby mikeschn » Tue Dec 12, 2006 5:18 am

Andrew has some very good ideas about building without a frame, some of which are captured in this thread.

http://tnttt.com/viewto ... &start=135

Andrew: it seems there is enough interest, what if you would add a page on this to the design library?

Mike...

P.S. Geron, welcome to the 2nd teardrop club! :lol:
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Postby Geron » Tue Dec 12, 2006 7:35 am

Thanks, This was what I was searching for.

G
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Postby angib » Tue Dec 12, 2006 11:05 am

Geron,

Here's a variety of different responses!

1) Fit the torsion axle to the 4' chassis

I make the track you need (for zero-offset wheels):
- body width: 60"
- sidewall-tyre clearance: 1" x 2 (2 sides) = 2"
- tyre half-width, 175 tyre: 3.5" x 2 (2 sides) = 7"
- total track required: 60 + 2 + 7 = 69"

A Dexter #9 axle is allowed an overhang up to 10.9", so on a 48" body this would give you a maximum track of:
48 + 10.9 + 10.9 = 69.8".

A Flexiride 1400-2000 axle is allowed an overhang up to 10.25", so that only gets you 68.5".

If you wanted wide wheels, like 205/215s, this wouldn't work.

2) 'Widen' chassis

If you welded some short pieces of sturdy angle, say 2"x2"x1/4", on the outside of your current chassis, that would make it 52" wide and give you a bolting surface for the axle. I believe this would be quite strong enough, as most torsion axle brackets support on the inside.

You then can get tracks up to 73.8" from a Dexter axle or 72.5" from a Flexiride, and you can't want more than that.

3) Bolt axle to body

I agree that this would work fine, if your body has been designed and built to take the load. Various requirements I would suggest are:

- The axle is bolted to a long piece of good quality wood at least 2"x2" running along, and securely attached to, the bottom of the sidewall.

- Alternatively the axle is bolted to a piece of 2" angle which is securely fixed to the sidewall.

- The floor should contain several good quality wood cross-members at least 2"x2". Preferably the floor will have a sandwich construction with top and bottom skins either side of the cross-members.

I've added the last one of these as your frame is now reduced to being really just a tongue and you need to connect it the the rest of the trailer with something.

I presume you would need to add some blocks under the body, to bolt the axle to, so that the axle tube passes under the frame. These blocks need to be thought about carefully, so that they aren't a weak link, but they can also be useful - something like 2ft long pieces of 2"x2" oak sitting under the sidewall would be ideal.

4) Bolt to body and forget about frame

I think this is what Mike is talking about. With the axle bolted to the body and the body wider than the frame, your frame is really only there to attach the tongue/A-frame.

If you went to something like the A-frame on this Ultralight, you could throw away the chassis - or keep it as a utility trailer.

Image

And, Mike, on this chassis idea, I've been working on a Mark 2 version of the Superleggera which will have this chassis, so that will hopefullly get posted soon.

Andrew
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Postby Geron » Tue Dec 12, 2006 1:27 pm

angib wrote:Geron,

Here's a variety of different responses!

Andrew


Oh My!! Oh My!! Oh my goodness :applause: :thumbsup:

This is far more than I expected. Gimme a week or two to digest all this.

This covers most of the possible options.

Thanks angib.

Excitement builds
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Postby mikeschn » Tue Dec 12, 2006 7:44 pm

I look forward to seeing your new creation...

I talked to my welder recently and he said he can bend the tongue any which way I want... So I am thinking a 50 degree tongue, bent a foot or so behind the front of the box, so that it's parallel to the sidewalls until the axle attaches to it.

I'll have a picture of that soon.

Actually, I already have it, I just have to find it again! LOL

Mike....

angib wrote:
And, Mike, on this chassis idea, I've been working on a Mark 2 version of the Superleggera which will have this chassis, so that will hopefullly get posted soon.

Andrew
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