how i built a fiberglass teardrop

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

Postby glassice » Thu Jan 04, 2007 2:57 am

after you lay your side wall mark out door and cut out IF your doing this with out a mold you can do this before you put together it make the wall very strong .Make the door look like the pic in the alb. . Then trim the foam around the hole you cut about 2in Image
Last edited by glassice on Sat Jan 06, 2007 1:27 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby glassice » Fri Jan 05, 2007 3:22 am

After you trim foam on the wall you will want to build the jam it will need a recess for seal & a place for water to run off and a tight fit. You will use the door you made as the mold .step! Wax the out sidewall about 6in are so around door and then VERY JARFUL the 1/16 in lip of the door try not get any wax on the inside you'll be bond glass to that. Then lay down on your flat board with the in side out clamp down are put block on to hold down tight .Then take door and get some plumbers putty the tipe you put down on the edge on a sink it tacky .It need to be wider than the foam seal. so foam can crunch down and have a Chanel for water .Put down on the edge of door about 1.5 are 2 in it will be the mold for your Chanel then get some cheep LaTeX pant now pant the edge of door and over the tacky and the raise then put bush in ice box between coats put at least 10 coats about 3 mi a coat .It helps cover tacky and small gap for door try not to get on out side of door .Let set for 2day are so .Now place door and clamp down are block on it back in hole and square put wax on door now you can lay up jam . If you look at pic you can see Chanel for door seal and see lip for door Image
Last edited by glassice on Fri Feb 16, 2007 8:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby glassice » Wed Feb 14, 2007 5:51 am

AS you do this the glass on the shell may not want to lay down flat . That not a big deal .Find a heavy Waite i like a old car Eng heads are cement block and get a socket are piece of steal put socket on the edge of shell and Waite down then lay up a few inch at a time and let cure. then hit socket lose and move up You'll get board but you did not have to make a mold .When you get done the door will be stuck that is good some reins will have cover the door .Leave the door stuck tell you put the top on and floor that keep the wall flat after you get the shell done sand off extra reins off the door it shod fall out if not lay shell on side under a beam (in door way) put some wood near the door opening get car jack and 2x4 and push it out trim the hole and you almost doneImage
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Postby glassice » Sat Feb 17, 2007 10:56 pm

I side doorImage
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cutting hatch

Postby glassice » Mon Feb 19, 2007 4:25 am

To cut fiberglass I like to use a rotary cuter they 1/4" and 1/16" go very slow with the Small one . When you use save cutting they can be add to resin for patching are run through a flower sniftered and used as a thicker. For the hatch you can do as you did the door are I well show a different way put you'll need to make a mold :( it will cost less than $5.oo Image
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hatch opening

Postby glassice » Mon Feb 19, 2007 11:58 pm

Have cut out my hatch.I cut it to high Oh yea i planed it that way .It will have a 2"lip so that will bring the opening down Image
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supper high price mold

Postby glassice » Tue Feb 20, 2007 8:51 pm

On this set up for the hatch relays on a foam seal and rain gutter like on your car trunk. It just a board and a piece of cardboard and ALU. duck tape. The plain is to make it very thin and bond to shell then build upImage
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got to love gov. contracts

Postby glassice » Fri Feb 23, 2007 10:40 pm

If you want to get Fancy on the mold this is for a spar for a drone
Image
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Postby southpennrailroad » Sun Feb 25, 2007 9:16 pm

I may be in a very vulnerable time right now with the passing of my wife but just maybe he had a stroke and is still trying to continue on with what life has dealt him and is passing his time as best as he can as we all are in much better ways but his pleasure is in building and sharing his work with us. I think he mentions the use of only one hand so maybe a war accident. I agree he is hard to understand but a little care and understanding might be in order until we can find the truth as to the way he writes and conveys his work.

Someone might see a man crying on a park bench and say he is odd and might call him a sissy while in fact that man might have just lost someone close to him. :thinking:
Long time researching the abandoned South Pennsylvania Railroad along the Pennsylvania Turnpike. God will guide me. As he has done so in the past. southpennrailroad.com
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FOR THE NO MOLDERS

Postby glassice » Thu Mar 08, 2007 1:52 am

I cut up a trailer that was built in a mold (yep did just for you) to show how put on the top after you match the side you need to make a jig to hold the side square start on the front bond 3 are 4 " let set roll out your 22 foot panel you have build ed and make sure that it square and work out and bond .I have found If you clamp the thin fiberglass in between two 1"x4"boards tie off with a little tension on it as you work it around . Where your bonding a flat board on the out side helps it stay flat .Please remember after you have roll out the top you will add more layers of fiberglass and foam.
Last edited by glassice on Thu Mar 08, 2007 2:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Arne » Thu Mar 08, 2007 7:44 am

Reminds me about just after the infamous 9/11, how nice everyone was to each other in the moment of national grief. I thought to myself, 'wonder how long this will last'.... answer was, about 2 weeks... then started slipping back to 'normal'... with horn blowing, flipping the bird to other motorists, etc.

When we are put into other people's shoes, we gain a better understanding, at least temporarily...

Now, back to the original programming..... FIBERGLAS rules!
www.freewebs.com/aero-1
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rain gutter

Postby glassice » Thu Apr 12, 2007 11:30 pm

Here the parts from the mold it for the rain gutter it need to be wide for the foam to crush . in the back ground it's a buck for a 12 wheel fenders the slots are for IT to bend and bonding Image
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Postby Stevebaz » Fri Apr 13, 2007 1:35 pm

Thank you GLASSICE I too have trouble understanding your communication but I do understand your work and progress.
Keep up the good work and for the few of us people needing guidence when working with fiberglass we thank you.
We all have something to learn from this person and some of it has nothing to do with Teardrops or Fiberglass.
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