Finally Started! Your Thoughts.

[Classic Finn]

Elmo Good Start.....

But youve got to call Ol Chip and order some of his Famous Pickle Juice...
He,ll most likely be happy to advise you on how much you,ll need for the duration of the project....

It,ll be nice to follow your progress..

Classic Finn

[Ira]

You just used 1 by 2's for that framing?

I don't know...

3/4" high doesn't give you much to screw into--especially for those sidewalls. Even the very minimalist Cubby plans call for 2 by 2s.

I would screw/glue (laminate) additional 1 by 2s around the perimeter. You said you were worried about overbuilding it using 2 by 4s, but going from 2 by 4s to 1 by 2s is a BIG leap.

HEY, AND ALSO!!!!!!

WATCH THAT GLUE AROUND THE DOG!!! DANGEROUS STUFF!!!

[elmo]

You just used 1 by 2's for that framing?

I don't know...

3/4" high doesn't give you much to screw into--especially for those sidewalls. Even the very minimalist Cubby plans call for 2 by 2s.

I would screw/glue (laminate) additional 1 by 2s around the perimeter. You said you were worried about overbuilding it using 2 by 4s, but going from 2 by 4s to 1 by 2s is a BIG leap.

HEY, AND ALSO!!!!!!

WATCH THAT GLUE AROUND THE DOG!!! DANGEROUS STUFF!!!

I am kind of using the Generic Benroy plans and that is what is suggested there, but does look hard to hit straight with a screw.

If it is alright for Mk it is alright for me!

[PaulC]

Elmo, just a thought on the walls and your fear of them falling off. If you make your chassis so that the walls sit on top of it, you will not have a problem. Check out how Larry S did his- http://outbackteardrop.com/

Cheers
Paul

[Jiminsav]

my two cents..

I'd make the floor the same dimension as the overall width of the trailer, screw the oak down such that your walls are flush with the edge of the floor, and don't use gorilla glue to hold it together, use PL urethane construction adhesive...much better stuff, gorilla glue doesn't penetrate the wood at all and it will peel up after about 6 month of outside exposure.
and stand the 1X2's on edge so you have more to screw too and that makes your wall cavity ¾ inch for insulation.

[elmo]

The walls are going to be on top of the trailer, so the wood won't scrape on the rocks if I ever get into that situation. I also come with another idea for a little extra support....I think I will just add a 2x2 on the inside of the walls...it is going to be covered with a mattress anyway.

[Ira]

You just used 1 by 2's for that framing?

I don't know...

3/4" high doesn't give you much to screw into--especially for those sidewalls. Even the very minimalist Cubby plans call for 2 by 2s.

I would screw/glue (laminate) additional 1 by 2s around the perimeter. You said you were worried about overbuilding it using 2 by 4s, but going from 2 by 4s to 1 by 2s is a BIG leap.

HEY, AND ALSO!!!!!!

WATCH THAT GLUE AROUND THE DOG!!! DANGEROUS STUFF!!!

I am kind of using the Generic Benroy plans and that is what is suggested there, but does look hard to hit straight with a screw.

If it is alright for Mk it is alright for me!

You're right--her post came up while I was typing mine.

Makes sense--I just thought the Cubby plans were so minimalist that anything less than that was stretching it.

As far as putting 2 by 2s in the interior, it would be easier and cleaner to do what Jack does:

He uses simple angle aluminum (the L-shaped stuff) to tie everything together. Also, you're framing and insulating, right?

So even without it, those walls aren't going anywhere.

[elmo]

You just used 1 by 2's for that framing?

I don't know...

3/4" high doesn't give you much to screw into--especially for those sidewalls. Even the very minimalist Cubby plans call for 2 by 2s.

I would screw/glue (laminate) additional 1 by 2s around the perimeter. You said you were worried about overbuilding it using 2 by 4s, but going from 2 by 4s to 1 by 2s is a BIG leap.

HEY, AND ALSO!!!!!!

WATCH THAT GLUE AROUND THE DOG!!! DANGEROUS STUFF!!!

I am kind of using the Generic Benroy plans and that is what is suggested there, but does look hard to hit straight with a screw.

If it is alright for Mk it is alright for me!

You're right--her post came up while I was typing mine.

Makes sense--I just thought the Cubby plans were so minimalist that anything less than that was stretching it.

As far as putting 2 by 2s in the interior, it would be easier and cleaner to do what Jack does:

He uses simple angle aluminum (the L-shaped stuff) to tie everything together. Also, you're framing and insulating, right?

So even without it, those walls aren't going anywhere.

I did check out Madjack's site after I said the 2x2...I think I will do the L-shape just for a little more peace of mind...eventhough probally not needed.

[gyroguy]

I don't want to oversimplify this... but! Take a shoebox. Rip the edges off the top. Put the top, sans edges, on the floor. Turn the shoebox over. Align it on the shoebox top. It really doesn't want to fall off.

That's kind of how I look at your project. Once you attach the body to the floor, the body goes where the floor goes.

Will the body be stiff enough to not shift and tilt? Sure. That's what the cross-bracing for the shelves, the back of the galley, etc. does for you. It stiffens the box. Even the teardrop shape stiffens the box, because it makes it harder to bend.

The Crocodile Tear has lineolum over the floor. I cut it off where the sides would drop down on it. I epoxy glued it, screwed it, and added a dozen 1" x 1" x 3" long aluminum angles for the heck of it. The only other trick was slotting the quarter-round trim before I put it down where the wall joins the floor.

Main thing is, though -- it's your trailer and you can do what you want to!

[elmo]

Too late. I already smell like roof tar. Just waiting for it to dry.

Now my next issue...What door shape to cut and how big??

Stay tune for further developments.......

[elmo]

I don't want to oversimplify this... but! Take a shoebox. Rip the edges off the top. Put the top, sans edges, on the floor. Turn the shoebox over. Align it on the shoebox top. It really doesn't want to fall off.

That's kind of how I look at your project. Once you attach the body to the floor, the body goes where the floor goes.

Will the body be stiff enough to not shift and tilt? Sure. That's what the cross-bracing for the shelves, the back of the galley, etc. does for you. It stiffens the box. Even the teardrop shape stiffens the box, because it makes it harder to bend.

The Crocodile Tear has lineolum over the floor. I cut it off where the sides would drop down on it. I epoxy glued it, screwed it, and added a dozen 1" x 1" x 3" long aluminum angles for the heck of it. The only other trick was slotting the quarter-round trim before I put it down where the wall joins the floor.

Main thing is, though -- it's your trailer and you can do what you want to!

gyroguy...nice website.