Jigsaw by SKil

[Classic Finn]

Your going to like it Finn...the orbital feature will make all the difference!!!

Happy New Year Dave

Ohhh goodie another positive confirmation

Can you please tell me about the Orbital Feature... Doesnt say anything on this manual ... but only 30 different languages about safety...which of course is important ....then while searching I found this info:

A standard-action jigsaw will move the jigsaw blade solely in an up-and-down motion, where an orbital-action jigsaw will angle the blade slightly forward and into the stock on the up-swing. The angle of the action can typically be adjusted for different types of materials, and can minimize wear on the saw blade. In many materials, this will make for a smoother cut.
Second, higher-end jigsaws will feature variable speeds. While this isn't always necessary when woodworking, it is especially useful if the jigsaw is used to cut metals. I do find it helpful, however, to be able to slow the blade speed down when making some rather intricate cuts, and feel that this feature is well worth the extra cost. If you get used to a variable-speed jigsaw and are forced to switch to a single-speed model, you'll miss the ability to adjust cutting speeds.



Heikki

[madjack]

Heikki, you have a pretty good saw there...a note...when cutting 2 clamped pieces (or even one thick piece) it will be hard to get a plumb cut (90* to sides) since the bottom of the blade is not supported/guided it will tend to wander, regardless of what you do on the top piece...using the orbital settings and going slowly will help this but not totally eliminate it...a belt sander is usually required to finish off the piece to get that plumb cut...
madjack

[Juneaudave]

You need to try test cuts on a given material to match the blade and the settings. My manual for Bosch indicates:

Setting "O" hard materials such as metal or thin sheet metals and used with knife blades, grit edge blades or rasp wrk.

Setting I soft materials where cleaner cutting or delicate scrolling work is performed.

Setting II medium density materials such as harder woods or particle board.

Setting III soft materials such as wood, plastics, etc

The following types of blades should only be used with the orbital Setting O:

1. Blades with teeth that point downwards (reverse-tooth blades)

2. Blades with teeth that point straight out rather than up or down.

3. Carbide tipped blades

4. grit edged blades.

Don't know if that helps...like I said, you need to match the blade with the settings and the material. I keep a collection of blades around, and when you find the right combination, it will cut like butter.

[Classic Finn]

Heikki, you have a pretty good saw there...a note...when cutting 2 clamped pieces (or even one thick piece) it will be hard to get a plumb cut (90* to sides) since the bottom of the blade is not supported/guided it will tend to wander, regardless of what you do on the top piece...using the orbital settings and going slowly will help this but not totally eliminate it...a belt sander is usually required to finish off the piece to get that plumb cut...
madjack

Hey there Madjack - Happy New Year... Lucky I have a belt sander as well.
Ok.. Thank You...for the info..

Heikki

[Classic Finn]

You need to try test cuts on a given material to match the blade and the settings. My manual for Bosch indicates:

Setting "O" hard materials such as metal or thin sheet metals and used with knife blades, grit edge blades or rasp wrk.

Setting I soft materials where cleaner cutting or delicate scrolling work is performed.

Setting II medium density materials such as harder woods or particle board.

Setting III soft materials such as wood, plastics, etc

The following types of blades should only be used with the orbital Setting O:

1. Blades with teeth that point downwards (reverse-tooth blades)

2. Blades with teeth that point straight out rather than up or down.

3. Carbide tipped blades

4. grit edged blades.

Don't know if that helps...like I said, you need to match the blade with the settings and the material. I keep a collection of blades around, and when you find the right combination, it will cut like butter.

Ok I found similar settings on this one too... off to do some testing

Thank You
Heikki

[dewayne]

The Skil maynot be the most precise , but it will handle most jobs just fine.I used to be a purchasing agent for an ACE Hardware dealer and I have the privilege of owning skil, bosch, black and deker, dewalt, milwaukee, ryobi etc. I personally own mostly dewalt and few black and decker.

dewayne

[asianflava]

Rotozip, Skil, and Bosch are owned by the same parent company.

[Todah Tear]

I had to check first. I bought a Skill to replace my Black n Decker that died.

Does anyone else find the light on the head distracting. Eyes involuntarily follow movement. That light has been the cause of some less-than-straight cuts. ...just askin'

Todah

[Classic Finn]

I had to check first. I bought a Skill to replace my Black n Decker that died.

Does anyone else find the light on the head distracting. Eyes involuntarily follow movement. That light has been the cause of some less-than-straight cuts. ...just askin'

Todah

Distracting Todah.... Not here in Reindeerland (MY OPINION) Its dark here 6 months out of the years so my reply is No I dont find it distracting.
I like that light there...If nothing else .... It looks cool running in the dark at times...

Todah Im used to that light on mine, it guides the cut good. So far Im happy with it.

Classic Finn

[Todah Tear]

Classic Finn,

I get distracted as the saw vibrates, the light moves back and forth. Besides that, sometimes, I can't see my guide lines because of the light. Maybe I should turn the garage lights off when I work.....but I want all of my fingers.

I guess I should just see if I can take the bulb out.

Stay warm!

Todah

[toypusher]

................ Besides that, sometimes, I can't see my guide lines because of the light. ............

Always cut outside the line and then sand to the line, this could prevent some errors due to your light induced wandering.

[dwgriff1]

I my opinion Bosch, hands down makes the best jigsaw on the market..

I am with Lazybones (who is probably a durvish of activity). When, after 10 or 12 years of hard use my old Bosch died, I bought a new Bosch.

Since I make a living with my tools, I really like tools that stick around.

dave

[Micro469]

I my opinion Bosch, hands down makes the best jigsaw on the market..

I am with Lazybones (who is probably a durvish of activity). When, after 10 or 12 years of hard use my old Bosch died, I bought a new Bosch.

Since I make a living with my tools, I really like tools that stick around.
dave

Me too... That's why I buy the cheap ones..... The expensive one tend to walk away by themselves......

[dwgriff1]

John,

You are 40 or 60 miles from the nearst town, you have an hour to finish a ticklish job. You reach for your trusty cheap tool. Oops.

Can't afford that down time. A trip back will take most of a day. So that cheap tool just cost me $300.

No dice.

dave

[Todah Tear]

Always cut outside the line and then sand to the line, this could prevent some errors due to your light induced wandering.

Thanks Toypusher! I took your advise and it worked!!

Todah