Keith B wrote:I make my own putty.. I take fine sawdust from the exact wood I'm using, usually found in your table saw cabint, not on the floor...the stuff on the floor is to big, but the stuff stuck in the cabinet works well.. mix with TiteBond III - not II.. III is waterproof; fill your hole over full. Let it dry for 24 hours and sand flush.
bledsoe3 wrote:What I did to hide all my screws was glued a 1/8" sheet of luan to the exterior after everything was secured.
doug hodder wrote:I'd vote for a thickened epoxy....Doug
asianflava wrote:Epoxy thickened with microballoons. Mix it up to a peanutbutter consistency and put it on. It also sands down easily.
asianflava wrote:Epoxy thickened with microballoons. Mix it up to a peanutbutter consistency and put it on. It also sands down easily.
Leon wrote:Microballoons are tiny little balls of plastic or expanded glass beads that you mix with epoxy for a light and sandable filler. They have the appearance of powdered sugar and are extremely light.
halfdome, Danny wrote:Counter sinking screws into 1/4" plywood won't leave much meat to pull everything up tight. The screws are only there as a clamp until the glue dries as it is when you glue & nail things together. Why not just use the best glue possible and just fill up vessels like buckets, cans etc and anything else of weight and place it all on top of your framing as weight clamps while the glue dries for a day or two. Make sure every inch is covered with glue & weights. This way you don't need the screws or need to fill those countersink holes. I use a soft plastic Bondo spreader to spread my glue on projects as it's flexible and spreads glue very fast.;) Danny
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