1 piece of 1/4" or 2 pieces of 1/8" to prevent spr

[Keith B]

I read the Benroy plans above and it recommended covering the galley hatch with 1 sheet of 1/8" to prevent spring back - however, I've already done my whole roof in 1/4"..so to keep everything flat I need to go w/ 1/4" on the galley lid. The curve is pretty gentle and I can bend the 1/4" no problem, but would it be better to have 2 pieces of 1/8". Which would be best to prevent springback? Total of 5 spars. 3 are 2.25" wide (2 pieces of 3/4" plywood and 1 piece of 3/4" poplar glued together) and 2 are 1.5" wide (2 pieces of 3/4" plywood glued together), all are 2" deep.
Spar curve template:

Spars and blocking in place till glue dries.

[halfdome, Danny]

Keith, since you have a hinge between the roof and the galley hatch only your total thickness for clearance matters since they will flush up together. I put two layers of 1/8" Baltic Birch on the roof and only one layer on the hatch. Do a mock up with your gasket to see if everything adds up to the correct thickness before putting on a second layer that adds more weight for you to lift. Danny

[Keith B]

Okay...I get what you're saying - by the time the hinge is attached it will "lift" the galley door to the same height as the roof...the only thing it might change is the space at the floor and an 1/8" on the sides, which can easily be filled w/ weatherstripping.... oh and by the way...did I miss something...all the "old" pictures - are we 'spose to update our photos - I didn't get the notice. Thanks for the help Danny... It looks like the "fun" is about ready to start now that the framing is coming to an end.

[Kit76]

This is a dumb Question But How is your 1/4" Roof Attatched--I see no
Screws?




Chris

[Keith B]

The roof was attached w/ Leech F-26 Waterproof adhesive (much like Liquid Nail). It's what I use on sub-floors for houses. I used screws and blocks of wood to secure it down and let it set for 4 days then removed the blocks, etc. I'll probably go back and add some screws just to be on the safe side...but the F-26 is crazy strong; did the same thing on the interior, but I will not add screws in there - it looks to clean now.

[Kit76]

Thank You--I Seen THis in Your Album after I Asked The Question.

Very Nice Build-- I Am Posting New Pics Today Just Got Started
On My Build.


Chris

[Keith B]

Chris - good luck on the build... I learned early on 4 very important things about TearDrops:
1.) They're addictive - while you're building your first you're already thinking about your 2nd.
2.) Weight is critical - don't over build. I did at the beginning but am getting better at it now... you walk out of the store and say...ahh, that plywood doesn't weight that much...but when you end up having 3-5 sheets of it..YUP, it sure does... build smart.
3.) Have fun with your project - you imagination is your only limitation. Enjoy it...have a barley pop and take a break every now and then and look at your progress and say.."WOW -I'm building this!!!"
4.) Remember, there are no stupid questions. This forum is filled w/ TONS of talent, so ask - they're happy to help. I'm a newbie myself and I've posted a million questions and so far they haven't asked me to leave.

These are great people and this is a great project. I wish you much success.

[Ira]

Keith, your hatch sides/edges look very thick and strong. I doubt whether you'll have ANY problem with springback.

How thick is it? 1 1/2"--from two pieces of 3/4" ply laminated together? And looking at the photos, you might have gone even thicker, huh?

Springback can be a problem when you go too thin with those hatch edges, like just 3/4", but yours look solid as a rock.

[Keith B]

Ira: The two end and middle spars and 2.25" thick - two pieces of 3/4" ply and one piece of solid 3/4" poplar all laminated together. The other two are just two pieces of 3/4" ply laminated together - total of 5 spars w/ blocking in-between. 1/4" space/gap on sides and bottom, 3/8" space/gap on top at the hinge. The hinge spars, body and lid, are 1.5"x2" oak each.

[halfdome, Danny]

oh and by the way...did I miss something...all the "old" pictures - are we 'spose to update our photos - I didn't get the notice.

Keith, start HERE for the answer. Danny

[madjack]

Keith, as ya know we are all a bit loony around here (some call it "freewheeling") and occasionally "sh** happens"...add in a dose of the cabin fever that some people have waiting for the winter to end and....there ya go............
madjack

p.s. it is all Pohdunks and Miriams fault...I disavow any responsibilty or participation in these efforts... ...MJ

p.p.s. with the "tank" like construction of your hatch frame, you shouldn't have any problems with springback..........

[Miriam C.]

I am sure Finn started it. Brick was just trying to post a manly picture too and what's a girl to do.

Besides you were right in the midst MJ. Then there was Guy

[Keith B]

Hey Danny...I've caught on... I'll have to dig around and find a good "photo" to upload....thanks.

And MadJack...many thanks for the polite way of saying... "You crazy SOB - you're spose to build light, just because lumber comes in 4x8 sheets doesn't mean you have to use the ENTIRE sheet to build your hatch spars..."

Point taken..I will proceed w/ the skin and put the hinge on, then get a few of my friends over to see if we can open the iron door.. Or install a boat crank for open lift assistance

This forum gets better by the day.

[Ira]

Seriously Keith, Madjack's description is accurate. That thing is SOLID.

I think it merits the world's first motorized opening system. Maybe hydraulics.

[Classic Finn]

:lol:
I am sure Finn started it. Brick was just trying to post a manly picture too and what's a girl to do.

Besides you were right in the midst MJ. Then there was Guy

Okkkkkkkkk...Are You Sure? Now what is it that I started????????? Are you talking about Bricks Pregnancy Photo? What was it taken at 8 months along.....



Classic Finn