Door Handles & Latches..To close to edge.

[Keith B]

I got some TD latches and handles...BUT...the hole for the 5/16" shank is 3/4" away from the strike and the excusion on the handle will thus be right at the edge of the door....so, anyone have a source that has a set-back on the latch hole position... I'm sure my description is clear as mud...hopefully those who have installed them will "un-muddy" it...

[toypusher]

Keith,

Yah, that was clear as mud!

Anyway, try here: Austin Hardware

[madjack]

Keith, you may haveta trim back the edge molding on the door...can you make a spacer plate for the stiker to ride on, moving it further out...and yeah, AustinHdw is a great source for all types of handles/latches....
madjack

[Keith B]

Alrighty... I just checked Austin Hardware, and they do have some that set back either 1-5/16" or 4". Be nice if ONE thing was local ya' know, just so you could "feel" it... Thanks.

[madjack]

Alrighty... I just checked Austin Hardware, and they do have some that set back either 1-5/16" or 4". Be nice if ONE thing was local ya' know, just so you could "feel" it... Thanks.

...Keith, that is one of the unfortunate bains of being a TD builder...I don't know how much stuff we ordered, sent back or just chucked into a box in the corner because it wasn't gonna do what we wanted....
madjack

[Keith B]

I hear ya... We should all get together and have a surplus sale..then use the procees to have a cook-out at one of the gatherings. or start a contest and the winner get's "parts".

[doug hodder]

Keith...what we did at the Redwoods was everyone bring down their parts that weren't used or changed and lots of people donated items, windows, lights, hinges, handles, lights etc...then we had drawings for people to get a chance to win what they needed...worked out pretty well...Doug

[Keith B]

Hey Doug... GREAT idea, I'd dontate to that.... can I donate the "empty" beer cans from the building process...scrap aluminum is at an all time high..

[bledsoe3]

Keith, I notched my t-moulding to match the radius of my door handle and mounted it close to the edge.

[Keith B]

Ahhh... hmmm, I guess I could do that if all else fails... FYI: you did a VERY nice job on making that fit... I almost thought it was sitting on top of the trim, excellent work.

[Endo]

Not sure if your latch/handles are like mine but I mounted my latch/handle away from the edge of the door so it would not interfere with the trim. Then I made a strike plate for the latch. Maybe that is another option for you.

[Keith B]

Endo...thanks... that may just work too.. I'm sure glad I asked this question...considerable options now. Where'd you get your edge trim and how wide is it.. my walls are about 1" thick..

[Endo]

Endo...thanks... that may just work too.. I'm sure glad I asked this question...considerable options now. Where'd you get your edge trim and how wide is it.. my walls are about 1" thick..

I purchased all of my trim here:

http://www.teardropparts.com/sub-pages/ ... ldings.htm

My walls are about 1 3/8" thick so I ripped some strips of .040 aluminum for the door sides/edge and the door jams and then covered them with the trim.

[Keith B]

Update: I just ordered 2 cabinet locks... #54 from Austin Hardware...the center of the shank from the strike will be 1-5/16" instead of 3/4", placing the edge of the exterior handle excusion at least a 1/2" away from the edge of the door.. that might help some... the next step was 4"s away, and I think that might look goofy; and I can still use Grant's keyed exterior handles too I think. NOTE TO BUYERS...No. 54 does NOT lock from the inside, so a secondary interior lock will be necessary or just trust who you're camping next to.

[48Rob]

Hi Keith,

I had a similar challenge with mine.
The door fits flush with the sides of the trailer, but is stopped by a piece of 1x2 trim on the inside.
The trim forms the lip the door closes against.
To solve the handle placement issue, I let the lip extend past the door cutout by an inch.
After installing the handle and interior latch, I bent a piece of heavy brass plate for the catch, so the metal latch wouldn't scratch up the wood.

I also ended up with an interior latch that does not lock.
However, after a little thinking, it was pretty easy to make it lock.

I simply drilled a 1/4" diameter hole in the latch body just below the lever, where a steel pin is inserted to "lock it".
The pin prevents the handle from being moved no matter if the exterior is locked or not.
The pin in the picture is inserted in a hole in the trim...as it is easy to keep track of there.

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v284/1948rob/awning/doorlock.jpg?t=1173309232"><P>

No chance that a cheap locking latch will engage itself while going down the road...but be careful not to make your spouse angry...

Rob