Urethane Paint Comparison By JamesTown Dist. See Last Post

[Airspeed]

If you clic on the link you can see others I have painted. You should give it a try,once you have painted your first time you will be looking all over for other stuff to paint! If you would like I could give you more detailed info on how I paint, Aaron
http://groups.msn.com/aaronsspeakers/shoebox.msnw

[bdosborn]

How about a tutorial? We have 'em for frames and Tears, one on paint would be great.
Bruce

[martha24]

How about a tutorial? We have 'em for frames and Tears, one on paint would be great.
Bruce

ditto!
Martha

[Podunkfla]

Airspeed... Your speaker cabinets are beautiful! Good job indeed. I agree, once you have painted a couple projects you'll wonder why you hann't tried it before. They really try to make it all a big mistery... ha ha. Auto shops make a fortune painting cars. As for good tutorials... There are plenty on the web and some good forums too. I'll try to look up a few good links.

The Eastwood forum is one good source of info:
http://forum.eastwoodco.com/forumdisplay.php?f=6

Here is a pretty good how to article I saved... It's from a VW bug
site, but the info applies to any car. I don't agree with everything he says,
but it is a good overview of how to do a good job:
http://www.thebugshop.org/bsfqpnt.htm

There is another good one I'm trying to find the link for?
Ahh... Here it is. The Hotrodders.com forum is the best I've found.
These guys know their stuff... This forum is as good as TTT (well almost):
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/body-exterior/

Of course, there is Amazon... There are a ton of good books on the subject:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_gw/10 ... 11&Go.y=11

[Airspeed]

You bet! I will write some stuff up tommorrow and post it here. When I first strarted painting I was intimidated and thought I couldnt do it as good as a pro,but after the first paint job I realized it was pretty simple as long as you take your time in the prep work. I am by no means a professional and dont claim to be an expert but if you look at some of the stuff I have painted you will see that even a guy who has never painted can do a nice job.
Look for it in a day or so.
Aaron

[Airspeed]

I looked at a bunch of tutorials on the internet but couldn't really find any that were aimed specifically at painting wood or wood composite materials,
I had to be kinda inventive to figure out how to give wood the look of painted steel or fiberglass. if you find one let me know,I would like to see how others deal with wood and it's peculiarities when being painted.
Aaron

[Podunkfla]

I looked at a bunch of tutorials on the internet but couldn't really find any that were aimed specifically at painting wood or wood composite materials,
I had to be kinda inventive to figure out how to give wood the look of painted steel or fiberglass. if you find one let me know,I would like to see how others deal with wood and it's peculiarities when being painted.
Aaron

I haven't ever seen one either... But, In doing a lot of high end furniture and cabinet work over the years, I've found the same principals apply. You just have to seal the wood and sand it till you get it as smooth as you will be happy with the finished product looking. Weather you use paint or a clear final coating doesn't matter; It will only look as good as what's under the topcoat. I prefer using a SW vinyl sealer on all the wood stuff I do. It is basically a lacquer product, but it is catalyzed. It's darn good stuff. At Sherwin-Williams it costs about $30. a gallon or $130. a 5 gal. pail.

Unfortunately, you won't find anyone that works in a S-W store, even the professional stores, that knows much, if anything, about finishing or painting? You flat out cannot trust their advise. They can tell you what the pros are using & what they sell a lot of... that's about it. It's just like Walmart and Home Despot... They get what they pay for, and they don't pay much for help these days.

Here's the link to the S-W products I use, including the vinyl sealer:
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/pro/she ... tains2.jsp

[apratt]

The painting part is easy. It is all the prep work, that is the hard part. That is where body shop guys get paid for. A lot of people don't want to take the time to do all the finish sanding. If there any flaws on the surface, the gloss paint will magnafiy it.

[asianflava]

Do you do a base/clear, or do you buff the color coat?

[Podunkfla]

Do you do a base/clear, or do you buff the color coat?

Me? Depends on what I'm painting. I use both. I even use conventional acrylic enamel and clearcoat over it after sanding with 600 grit sometimes.

[Podunkfla]

I've posted this before... but it is still interesting. If you want to paint a car (or tear) on the cheap... here is a good way. It is just more work. I have seen results that looked like a pro did it done this way... and with a roller yet!

The famous $50. paint job:
http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html

Here's the original thread on the Mopar forum... just scroll down to the orange Charger:
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/sho ... art=1&vc=1

[Arne]

It looks like Tremclad is a rustoleum product. Has anyone been able to find it in a big box store?

[Podunkfla]

It looks like Tremclad is a rustoleum product. Has anyone been able to find it in a big box store?

It is sold under that name in Canada... The Rustoleum we have here works just as well.

[Arne]

As I recall rustoleum takes a long time to dry. Do you know if thinning it with the mineral spirits shortens the time?

Sounds like he used at least 6 thin coats and that would be a lot of drying time..

[Podunkfla]

As I recall rustoleum takes a long time to dry. Do you know if thinning it with the mineral spirits shortens the time?

Sounds like he used at least 6 thin coats and that would be a lot of drying time..

Yep, darn slow drying stuff. Thinning it with spirits won't help the drying time. With this method of painting it doesn't matter that much since you end up sanding and polishing it anyway. Bugs and junk in the paint get sanded off! You can speed up the drying by using naptha and even lacquer thinner to thin it with... although the manufacturer will deny this.

You can also add a little Japan dryer to it... and artist supply item.