Urethane Paint Comparison By JamesTown Dist. See Last Post

[Airspeed]

I start by getting the wood as dry as possible, When I am painting a small object I heat it with a heat lamp and dry every surface inside and out,when Painting something large I that is made out of wood I just use heat lamps and keep moving them until I have heated the whole thing. I heat it to the point that it gets hot enough to hurt if I touch it.I have found if I dont do this all The joints print through about a week later, I even built a forced air heater to attach to the speakers I build and let it run for several days,It forces hot air in the bottom and out the top,Then I cover the whole surface with a primer,then fill the entire suface to be painted with thinned body filler, I thin the filler with "Plastic Honey",
Then sand and reheat the whole thing before sanding down to 600.
I do this to get the surface to stay flat and to all the seams from printing through. If I dont do this all the larger grained surfaces swell up and become very wavy even if you sand them down they seam to show up later and end up looking like painted wood. This just the way I do it,
Aaron

[Keith B]

Okay... I contacted Valspar with regard to their enamel...however, they do not sell an "epoxy based" primer, nor do the have any testing of their paint on top of an "epoxy based" primer.... I really would prefer to have primer on the TD..1.) it gives me another shot to look at the finish surface to minor imperfections and 2.) it's sandable...another shot for a good finished... The Valspar Enamel does not get a clear coat either - dries to gloss and can be sanded/buffed to higher gloss....but do I dare use enamel on an epoxy based primer that's never been tested and if so, what primer do I actually use...

[Keith B]

Wait.. I don't want enamel.. I want urethane right... sorry.. just trying to find "local" stuff, tired of "ordering".

[Geron]

I"m kinda a bottom line kinda guy.

Two main reasons to paint.
1. Make it purty so people will ahh and ohh
2. Protection for longevity.


We can get real complicated with the PURTY part. In the campground I'm interested in primarily "protection" not "purty". I don't plan on "showing" this thing.

So, I'm gonna pour the urethane paint on the CPES primed TD and smear it around a little with a brush. If it turns out "Purty" I'll be "proud", If not "purty" I'll be "protected" -- as long as the paint stays on there. I'm just gonna paint the thing but not use interior latex.

Simply,
g

[Keith B]

Hey Geron... I think if you are using the Interlux...you will get purdy and protection if you apply as they say..roll and tip...did you call Interlux? What'd they say on quantity? Oh and FYI: Interlux said FOR SURE their Brightside will not stick to "epoxy"/CPS, you do have to prime it w/ an epoxy primer....but their two part, "Perfection" would stick to epoxy...just FYI.

[Keith B]

Quick question, simple answers. Difference between paints: am I correct in these definitions?

Enamel (Valspar) - no clear required, softer and will fade faster, less abrasion resistance, maybe 3-5 years?
Polyurethane (Interlux) - hard and does not require a clear coat for UV, good abrasion resistance and long lasting, maybe 7-10 years?
Urethane (Auto Paint) - hard but requires a clear coat to protect from UV, best abrasion resistance and longest lasting, maybe 15-20 years?

Is this why people get married so their spose will just "TELL" them what to do instead of all this "guessing"...

[critter]

Hey Guys,
I got a ?.If the glossy paint magnifies imperfections what hides em?After putting on 2 coats of primer I still got lots little bumps and stuff I want to hide.No more sanding for me....Ive used up 5 packs ,25 each of 80 grit DA sanding disc and a couple of other packs,I give up..... Ive had enough the little bumps and stuff wins,I have to take second place.I have been defeated.If i can hide it ill paint on top of it or camo it or set it on fire and roast wennies or something!

[Keith B]

Critter..if ALL you have done is primer... fill your "spots" now w/ some epoxy, bondo, etc. and fair them out.. you will be MUCH happier I promise...sanding little screw holes etc. takes very little effort..not like when you removed your paint... go w/ a lighter glossy color to minimize imperfections or go w/ a "flat" color...but I think you'd like glossy better. If the holes are small you can use a glazing putty, (comes in like a tooth paste bottle and no mixing)... smear it on w/ a finger, spatula, etc...in 30 min. it can be sanded and it sands VERY easy w/ just a little block sander... are the bumps from to thick of a nap roller... you can lightly sand primer by hand very easily... if they're "little indentions" try this stuff out....good auto store will have it..and it's not expensive.


A camo TD... you know...if done right that might look okay... if DEF. wouldn't show imperfectios, it would hide chips, finger prints, little scratches, etc... and no one would see you in the woods.

[martha24]

Quick question, simple answers. Difference between paints: am I correct in these definitions?

Enamel (Valspar) - no clear required, softer and will fade faster, less abrasion resistance, maybe 3-5 years?
Polyurethane (Interlux) - hard and does not require a clear coat for UV, good abrasion resistance and long lasting, maybe 7-10 years?
Urethane (Auto Paint) - hard but requires a clear coat to protect from UV, best abrasion resistance and longest lasting, maybe 15-20 years?

Is this why people get married so their spose will just "TELL" them what to do instead of all this "guessing"...

That's my husband exactly!
He's the one doing most of the work on the tear, but not all. I'm the one doing all the research and finding the materials. I too would rather not have to order any more than I have to or at least know exactly what I'm ordering and will be happy with it.

Keith, like you I want to put a layer of cpes, primer & paint. I also need some filler. I don't want the wood grain to show through, I want a nice paint job, urethane seems a good way to go with sandable primers. I also don't want to spend a fortune either.
There are lots of genric sugestions, especially with auto paint, but as I'm clueless about these things it would be good if people mentioned what exact paint within a brand that they like and about what the costs would be. In another thread the owner of a beautiful purple teardrop spent $800 on his. I can't afford that amount of money.
This has been a very good thread, but still I don't know what would be the best way for me. As we are working on the outside more before the inside inorder to take it on the road I need to be deciding pretty soon as everything needs to work together between the cpes, primer & paint.
Everyone please keep giving as much detail about this topic as you can.
Thanks, Martha

[Keith B]

Well, my whole TD is filled, faired and covered with West Systems epoxy, not CPES, so I have ZERO wood fuzz that I can see or feel... I'm not expecting an "auto quality" finish since I've never done and "auto quality" paint job...but I will say this... I've heard more talk about Auto Paint or Brightside by Interlux or EasyPoxy by Pettit over all other kinds of paint on this forum...Interlux and Pettit are the same type product I believe, just different brands.... that's pretty much what I'm leaning toward, Brightside,...just to big of a learning curve on to big of a project for me on the "auto paint" I think. Between now and my "next TD" I'll practice on things w/ spraying auto paint and maybe that's what I'll use next time.

[Geron]

Keith,

Just got off the phone with the Rot Doctor (Steve). He said that CPES was an excellent primer for Marine Polyurethane top coat paint. (Actually said you couldn't buy a better primer MP topcoat) Seems I had read a thread from Mike that indicated the same thing. This is all so confusing. I think each vendor wants one to use ONLY their products.

However, If you stay with All West Marine products -- shouldn't have any problems.

Oh, Coverage. On the label it indicates 500-600 sq ft per gal at 3 mils wet application

[Keith B]

Geron...looks like you're good to go then, I was just going off what Interlux told me and the Brightside lable:
CLEAR EPOXY: Clean as for Bare Fiberglass above. Sand with 80 grade (grit) paper. Remove sanding residue. Apply one coat of Epoxy Barrier-Kote 404/414.
I need to get off my butt and make a decision...you're right, lots of confusion, and probably simply as you said... to many cooks in the kitchen - each manufacturer only REPS their OWN products to work with their OWN products. I vote we both have a beer and get to work on painting and start enjoying... and see each other in Minden for a toast

[KDOG]

Can I ask a dumb noob question? If your making the skin of your TD with wood, can you just use good wood putty to fill in holes and stuff then use good outdoor primer and paint for wood?

[toypusher]

Can I ask a dumb noob question? If your making the skin of your TD with wood, can you just use good wood putty to fill in holes and stuff then use good outdoor primer and paint for wood?

It certainly has been done before! Should be no problem, but may need a bit more 'routine maintenance' than some of the other options.

[Podunkfla]

I start by getting the wood as dry as possible, When I am painting a small object I heat it with a heat lamp and dry every surface inside and out,when Painting something large I that is made out of wood I just use heat lamps and keep moving them until I have heated the whole thing. I heat it to the point that it gets hot enough to hurt if I touch it.I have found if I dont do this all The joints print through about a week later, I even built a forced air heater to attach to the speakers I build and let it run for several days,It forces hot air in the bottom and out the top,Then I cover the whole surface with a primer,then fill the entire suface to be painted with thinned body filler, I thin the filler with "Plastic Honey",
Then sand and reheat the whole thing before sanding down to 600.
I do this to get the surface to stay flat and to all the seams from printing through. If I dont do this all the larger grained surfaces swell up and become very wavy even if you sand them down they seam to show up later and end up looking like painted wood. This just the way I do it,
Aaron

Aaron... Sounds like as good a plan as I've heard of... Your results sure speak for themselves (nice pun huh?).