Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

by **Miriam C.** » Tue Apr 24, 2007 9:24 am

I think the last time this was discussed someone put a couple of ribs down the sides of the door, drilled some holes in the tops, put a pole through it for a curtain rod. :thumbsup:

If you make it thicker in the middle and tapering to the end it will even look nice.

by **Podunkfla** » Tue Apr 24, 2007 10:05 am

Adding a couple of vertical hardwood (or aluminum) "stiffeners" has been done before... If the door is kinda bowed top to bottom this can be a good cure. Unfortunately, my luck has always been when wood or plywood doors warp, they do it with a twist... So when laid on a flat surface two diagonal corners are touching and one corner sticking up. The stiffeners will help some, but usually not take all the warp out. I've made many a door over because of this... Some were pretty fancy hardwood (5 piece panel) doors and I spent days trying to save them. I almost always ended up making them over.

I know this is not good news... I'm just telling of my unfortunate experience with warped doors. Sadly, wood just has a way it wants to be in a given atmospheric condition and fighting it can be very frustrating.

by **elmo** » Tue Apr 24, 2007 5:12 pm

Well I tried a couple of different things and I guess next week I am building a new door. :cry:

I just have to figure out how I am going to use the diamaond plate I have left over and get a good seal on it.

by **Keith B** » Tue Apr 24, 2007 7:43 pm

Shucks... well, don't thow them in the trash just yet... you might have a brain storm tonight and get 'er figured out...

by **elmo** » Tue Apr 24, 2007 11:03 pm

Keith B wrote:Shucks... well, don't thow them in the trash just yet... you might have a brain storm tonight and get 'er figured out...

Trust me I have been brainstorming...without putting on another door handle at the top. :thinking:

I measured and it is about a 1/4" that is screwing me up.

Eventhough everything I touched today went wrong I went back out and got all my lights up...except one...another brain storm project, but not as serious as the door. Also got the Fantastic Fan up and running.

by **Podunkfla** » Tue Apr 24, 2007 11:57 pm

elmo wrote:
Keith B wrote:Shucks... well, don't thow them in the trash just yet... you might have a brain storm tonight and get 'er figured out...

Trust me I have been brainstorming...without putting on another door handle at the top. I measured and it is about a 1/4" that is screwing me up.

Eventhough everything I touched today went wrong I went back out and got all my lights up...except one...another brain storm project, but not as serious as the door. Also got the Fantastic Fan up and running.

Elmo... Only 1/4"?? That sure seems fixable to me using Doug's method... IE: Cutting some kirfs on the inside and laminating a piece of 1/8" doorskin or birch (or even 1/4" ply?) to it. He used epoxy to fill the grooves & glue on the skin, I think. I have done it just using good old "yellow glue" aka: PVA glue, Titebond II and others. I used a scrap piece of 3/4" ply & a piece of MDF to make a good 1-1/2" caul to clamp the whole mess down with. It worked fine for me for interior applications... But, I think Doug's epoxy method would prolly be even better for a tear. I just clamped the whole "sandwich" up using the table saw top as a flat surface to clamp it to till it dried overnight... But anything really flat would do. Dollar Store waxed paper keeps glue off things that ya don't want glued. Sounds to me like you haven't got a lot to lose by trying it... Except maybe not having to buy some more $90. paint? :lol:

by **asianflava** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 2:25 am

Grant's offset hinges will help straighten a warped door. It attaches to the face of the door and stiffens it up on the hinge side.

The latch side is another story. I've seen someone attach a piece of wood on the inside to act as a full length door pull. Once it was stained to match and varnished, it looked like it belonged there.

If your door is twisted, then you may have to make a new one.

by **bledsoe3** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 3:22 am

Elmo, what kind of door seal are you using? Grant's door seal is .360 and should take up that gap.

by **elmo** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 7:28 am

bledsoe3 wrote:Elmo, what kind of door seal are you using? Grant's door trim is .360 and should take up that gap.

Grant's..... :cry:

by **Ira** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 3:48 pm

Why do you think sealing is going to be a problem using the diamond plate?

Because of the raised etch marks, that the t-molding won't sit flush?

by **Keith B** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 3:57 pm

Just a thought... BUT... if one were to build a door using 1/2" oak for the frame, properly joined and covered (both sides) in pressed hardboard (peg board without the holes), wouldn't that resist warp? I know hardboard isn't easily warped but it does NOT like water...so it would have to be covered in epoxy/paint or in this case, Duraback....

Or another theory or way of putting it...the less wood in the door, the less it will warp....especially plywood?

Again, just a thought... :thinking:

by **elmo** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 4:08 pm

Ira wrote:Why do you think sealing is going to be a problem using the diamond plate?

Because of the raised etch marks, that the t-molding won't sit flush?

Not so much that, but the window getting a nice tight seal.

by **Podunkfla** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 6:50 pm

Keith B wrote:Just a thought... BUT... if one were to build a door using 1/2" oak for the frame, properly joined and covered (both sides) in pressed hardboard (peg board without the holes), wouldn't that resist warp? I know hardboard isn't easily warped but it does NOT like water...so it would have to be covered in epoxy/paint or in this case, Duraback....

Or another theory or way of putting it...the less wood in the door, the less it will warp....especially plywood?

Again, just a thought...

Generally speaking, good cabinet grade plywood (that has been stablized to the atmosphere it's going to live in) won't warp... Same is true of other woods too. That's why we use them for cabinets.

So... Your idea is good, but just not necessary if ya build with the right stuff. It must be that some of this imported plywood, even thought the full sheets look flat, have some internal stresses built in that show up when you cut them into smaller pieces. Just my thoughts on why this happens.

by **Jiminsav** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 7:24 pm

elmo wrote:I have run into a snag. My door is warped. I went out of my way to make sure it didn't lean on something and was always flat, but I have about 1/2 inch warp. I have it off the trailer now with some weight on it. How long should I wait before I try to put it back on?

I think I could of made it water proof the way it was by double sealing, but I would rather have it the right way. I dread the thought of making a new door, besides I would have to order another gallon of Durabak.

Spoon boy: Do not try and bend the door. That's impossible. Instead... only try to realize the truth.
Neo: What truth?
Spoon boy: There is no door.
Neo: There is no door?
Spoon boy: Then you'll see, that it is not the door that bends, it is only yourself.

by **Podunkfla** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 9:32 pm

Spoon boy: Do not try and bend the door. That's impossible. Instead... only try to realize the truth.
Neo: What truth?
Spoon boy: There is no door.
Neo: There is no door?
Spoon boy: Then you'll see, that it is not the door that bends, it is only yourself.

Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Some help from the people that dealt with warped doors.

Re: Some help from the people that dealt with warped doors.

Who is online