Bending aluminum extrusion, Help!

[Keith B]

GOOD LAND.. that is PERFECT , now you have to give advise to future questioners.. GREAT JOB!!

[Airspeed]

Well I got a few more "BooBoo's", I wrapped the door edges with the trim and smashed the same spot,burnt three finger tips (aluminum gets hot when you put a torch to it) and hit my wrist with the hammer.
Doing the outside corners is easy,when I got to bending the trim around the door itself things got a little more difficult but it turned out very nice. I screwed the door down to my bench leaving a 1/16th" gap under the door and forced the leg in the gap with a hammer and a piece of hardwood, tapping on the hardwood as I went around the corner. I am happy to say it worked great and came out smooth.
now I get to do the other side of the door.
I want to get all the trim bent before I apply the skin so I dont beat up the skin while bending the trim.
Thanks again for all the suggestions and links,I couldn't have done it without all your help! Thanks!!!!!!!!! Aaron

[Miriam C.]

I guess that means you didn't wear leather gloves. Or did you A torch isn't something I have ever had a desire to go near. Might have to though.

[Podunkfla]

Airspeed... Darn good job indeed. Sure better than I did first time I tried it. Now that you have become an "expert aluminum annealer" there is a neat little "crayon" you can get from Drago Supply that makes it even easier! It's called a "Markal thermomelt heat stick" Temperature Indicator and comes in different temps. The best one I have found for aluminum is Mfg. number 86859 650° temp. It serves the same purpose as the candle soot... it's just faster and easier to use.



They only cost $8.50 ea. here: http://www.dragosupply.com/drago/servle ... group.jsp/

Here is some interesting info on the subject: http://www.tinmantech.com/html/aluminum ... tinued.php

This HTS-2000 is amazing stuff for brazing aluminum with a propane torch at low temps. A machinist friend gave me a few sticks to play with. It really works well and is easy. It is not cheap at about $2. a stick though... And, they only sell in 1 Lb. packs or more at about $65. a Lb.

Lots more info here: http://www.aluminumrepair.com/aluminum_repair.asp

Similar product on eBay for $27.99: Welding, brazing rods

[asianflava]

As usual, you've done a great job. Annealing isn't too bad, it was time consuming for me since I used propane instead of MAPP. My neighbor (the guy who welded my frame) MIG welds aluminum with a spool gun. It doesn't look nearly as nice as a TIG weld though.

Knowing how much of a prefectionist you guys are, check out the jig that Tony made.

http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?p=132169

When I did mine, it would twist as you bent it. Tony's jig will prevent that.

[bledsoe3]

As usual, nice work Aaron. I too thought the annealing would be a lot harder than it was. It's not that hard if you practice. Maybe others will see what a good job you did and not be afraid to try it.

[Keith B]

Have you heard how bad he's tearing himself up..smashing fingers, burning hands, hitting his wrist w/ a hammer...heck yeah they're gonna be afraid of it

Kidding Aaron....you did a BANG UP job , sorry, couldn't resist.

[Airspeed]

Yea and I smacked my head into one of the new cabinets I installed the day before and this morning I kicked my wifes weight machine with my little toe! I gonna need a vacation soon! Aaron

[bledsoe3]

Yea and I smacked my head into one of the new cabinets I installed the day before and this morning I kicked my wifes weight machine with my little toe!

Put down the beer and step away from the power tools.

[capnTelescope]

Great results!

Is the annealing really necessary? Seems like most aluminum shapes are pretty soft to begin with. What is your aluminum alloy?

[Airspeed]

The aluminum I am using is 3003 and it wont bend well unless it is heated.
It is pretty amazing how far this stuff will bend once it has been annealed.
I made several mistakes on my door trim like not lining up the screw holes when I drilled them out, My door has trim on both sides and it didnt occur to me to line up the holes so they wood be simetrical to each other,oh well I can only see the screws when the door is open!
I may just redo the trim around the door if it bugs me too much.
Aaron

[tonyj]

Great results!

Is the annealing really necessary? Seems like most aluminum shapes are pretty soft to begin with. What is your aluminum alloy?

The annealing is necessary unless you order alloy that is soft and bendable, and I would think it will be more expensive as well. They don't carry any of that at the big box stores or places where most of us can get it quickly.

Airspeed--wear some gloves!! You are heating the metal to upwards of 600 degrees--flesh burns at a point waaay below that. Welding gloves work great, and then you can walk over to the faucet and run a little water on the metal. Then take off your gloves. Not need to factor in healing time into your build if you don't have to.

[Podunkfla]

Great results!

Is the annealing really necessary? Seems like most aluminum shapes are pretty soft to begin with. What is your aluminum alloy?

Not to sound crass... but, if it wasn't necessary to anneal it we wouldn't do it!
I think most of the standard extrusions are 6000 series alloys like 6061. They get work hardened just by the extrusion process, plus anodizing doesn't help either. Annealing just makes it makes easier to bend without cracking or buckling the metal. But, you are welcome to give it a go yourself and let us know how it works for you?

[capnTelescope]

Not to sound crass... but, if it wasn't necessary to anneal it we wouldn't do it!

Crassness wasn't taken.

However, this wouldn't be the first time something here might have possibly been maybe a teensy little bit overdone, so I had to ask. I'm pretty good at overcomplicating things, myself.

Anyways, yes, I'll agree the 3003 alloy is going to need it.