Our Car Failed Inspection - Ideas On This

[Classic Finn]

INSPECTION!!!!!!!!!! What inspection!!!!!! And yearly. We don't have any of that here.

Here in the Eu they inspect everything...Farmers Livestock, How much milk they produce and now vegies even have to be according to Eu Standards...Sizes, shape and whatever else...Da Bass....

Car Inspection.. Auto Tax Inspection, and now get this.. a Yearly Tv License..
No free Tv Watching here.. either...


Classic Finn

[Podunkfla]

Heikki... Yep, Leon is right on with his assessment given what little we know from afar. The O2 sensor often does sort of wear out rather than just quit. Next to look at prolly is the temp sensor (cold water sensor); when they go the engine thinks the car is still warming up all the time and sends a rich mixture. If your fuel mileage has gone down, that would be a good indicator. Usually the only sure way to find out is to pay for a diagnostic test to tell you what isn't working. Down here in Flada, with no inspections, I only have to worry about fuel mileage and running issues. So when I do a tune-up it's cheaper to just replace the most common culprits... Rotor & cap, plugs & wires, O2 & temp sensors. That usually costs about $100. I find it is often cheaper to do that than pay for a diagnostic on an older car without an OB2 plug in for the newer diagnostic computer.

Good luck buddy... been there.
~ Brick

[Classic Finn]

i just know a guy at a inspection place $50 and my camaro which is basically a all out drag car is now street legal

The Inspection cost me 62 euro ( 62.00 EUR = 83.4650 USD )

and 3.5 hours of waiting in line for it..


Classic Finn

geez here it is $29 and it takes about 20-30 minutes and it actually just went up a few years about

but seriously what kind of car do you have is it fuel injected or carbed and what are the numbers with there acceptable ranges

Sorry I didnt notice the last part of your reply..

Its a lil French Car named Peugeot 306 1.6 litre. No fuel injection.. Carbed and the allowance here is ..

Co - Allowed 0.50
Hc - Allowed 100
Lamda - 0.97 - 1.03

Classic Finn

[Classic Finn]

[quote="Podunkfla"]Heikki... Yep, Leon is right on with his assessment given what little we know from afar. The O2 sensor often does sort of wear out rather than just quit. Next to look at prolly is the temp sensor (cold water sensor); when they go the engine thinks the car is still warming up all the time and sends a rich mixture. If your fuel mileage has gone down, that would be a good indicator. Usually the only sure way to find out is to pay for a diagnostic test to tell you what isn't working. Down here in Flada, with no inspections, I only have to worry about fuel mileage and running issues. So when I do a tune-up it's cheaper to just replace the most common culprits... Rotor & cap, plugs & wires, O2 & temp sensors. That usually costs about $100. I find it is often cheaper to do that than pay for a diagnostic on an older car without an OB2 plug in for the newer diagnostic computer.

Good luck buddy... been there.


~ Brick

Leon and Brick

There are no real symptoms while driving or while engine is in idle, except.. at first when starting it.. the engine tends to have higher Rpms than after warming up..

I,ll start by doing the rotor and cap and spark plugs and even new wires and ...and timing...as you mention.. sensor..

And get rid of it. before next inspection which is next June.

Classic Finn

[Kens]

Usually works here, put three cans of dry gas in 1/2 tank of gas. Cannt say it will work but might help. just my 2 cents.

[tonyj]

Heikki, I hate to tell you this, but my analysis of your printout indicates your car has high cholesterol. The only way to know for sure is to run a test for comparison by taking the car back to the inspector and instructing the technician to take the probe and stick it up his tailpipe.

[Classic Finn]

Heikki, I hate to tell you this, but my analysis of your printout indicates your car has high cholesterol. The only way to know for sure is to run a test for comparison by taking the car back to the inspector and instructing the technician to take the probe and stick it up his tailpipe.

High Cholestral ....

Darn its 0205 in the morning here and Im laughing out loud...hope the wife dont wake up...

I think our car has EU disease.... Or it has a bad case of Russian Fuel Rejection...

Classic Finn

[Lesbest]

High HC= too rich
High CO= too rich
Llamda reading is showing a rich exhaust. It should be around350 to 650 MV and varying. Before you buy an o2 sensor make sure the air filter is not clogged, with a carburetor this is much more important than with FI. With fuel injection as the air filter gets clogged and allows less air into the engine, the computer reduces the amount of fuel and keeps the exhaust clean---but with less air and fuel you have less power. With a carb. as the filter clogs the engine sucks harder and the fuel comes out of the carb faster---thus rich readings at higher RPMs. Think of drinking faster thru a straw.
Hope this helps.
Les

[AlaskaJack]

Before going in for inspection (yes... we have them in Anchorage!) it's always a good idea to have a fresh air filter and spark plugs.... and make sure the engine is warmed up. Then just cross your fingers......

[doug hodder]

Heikki...what's the scoop over there for the older trucks like the Chev. you are doing? Does that need to comply or do you get a pass because of the age? Just curious...Doug

[SSchumacherCO]

Seems to me that I saw some gas additive that claims to aid in passing emissions tests. Might be made form snake oil. I did have a car fail once, retested and it passed. My mechanic claims the test equipment is not always consistant.

[asianflava]

I would expect that your car is OBDII compliant I think it is the right year. Have someone plug a reader in to see if anything is wrong. The readers can usually monitor the O2 sensors and the cat efficency.

Do all the things mentioned in prior posts, new plugs, filter, additives, drive the car around before testing and have it retested. Do they charge for a retest? Here, if you fail you have to pay. When they retest, you don't have to pay again.

[Podunkfla]

I would expect that your car is OBDII compliant I think it is the right year. Have someone plug a reader in to see if anything is wrong. The readers can usually monitor the O2 sensors and the cat efficency.

Do all the things mentioned in prior posts, new plugs, filter, additives, drive the car around before testing and have it retested. Do they charge for a retest? Here, if you fail you have to pay. When they retest, you don't have to pay again.

Heikki's car may be OBDII compliant? My 1995 Nissan PU unfortunately is not.
My understanding is OBDII pretty much is 1996 and up according to the auto forums and auto parts stores that offer free diagnostics. "Course, that is just my experience with it... your mileage may vary.

[asianflava]

My understanding is OBDII pretty much is 1996 and up according to the auto forums and auto parts stores that offer free diagnostics. "Course, that is just my experience with it... your mileage may vary.

I wasn't shure of the year, I knew it was newer than my turck (1994) and before one of our Hondas (1999) There is OBDI out there though.

[Classic Finn]

High HC= too rich
High CO= too rich
Llamda reading is showing a rich exhaust. It should be around350 to 650 MV and varying. Before you buy an o2 sensor make sure the air filter is not clogged, with a carburetor this is much more important than with FI. With fuel injection as the air filter gets clogged and allows less air into the engine, the computer reduces the amount of fuel and keeps the exhaust clean---but with less air and fuel you have less power. With a carb. as the filter clogs the engine sucks harder and the fuel comes out of the carb faster---thus rich readings at higher RPMs. Think of drinking faster thru a straw.
Hope this helps.
Les

Les thank you.. looks like youve done some work on this type of subject.
The air filter and gas filter is clean. I checked that this morning. But Im wondering if the carb itself needs adjusting.. spark plugs will be changed today as well. Are the same codes there in the States as are reading on these papers I received from the inspectors here?

I,ll keep you posted..

Best regards
Classic Finn