Substitute for CPES

[asianflava]

Instead of heating the epoxy batch, I've read about heating the surface you are applying it to. When applied, it will heat up, thin out and seep deeper into the pores. Heating the wood, will also open the pores to help the penetration. The pot life of the batch isn't compromised because the it wasn't heated up.

Disclaimer: I haven't personally done this, I just read about this technique.

[Arne]

Mike, how much did you order?

I was just going to do the seams, but thinking about it, I think I'll do the whole tear.... it helps stabilize the walls and doors.

[Micro469]

I went ahead and ordered the CPES. I should have it by Friday.

I was planning on coating the entire tear with it, and sanding it smooth, and shooting it with car paint.

If the CPES alone doesn't get smooth, I'll add a layer of regular epoxy resin.

Mike...

Mike, the CPES works great. I covered my entire tear on the ouside with it. The first coat sucked in like crazy, the second coat a little slower, the third coat put a nice shine on it. If I put a few more coats on it I probably wouldn't need to cover it with epoxy, just clearcoat it. I put it on with a brush, but by the time you put on the third coat, you have to watch for runs...... a roller would probably put it on smoother. Oh yeah, the stuff doesn't harden right away, I could still use the leftover CPES the next day.

[mikeschn]

Arne,

I ordered a 2 gallon unit. I figure since I'm going to have $2K to $3K into this ET, I might as well protect all the wood from leaks, hidden or otherwise. Plus It'll give me a nice surface to shoot car paint onto... I may end up buying another gallon unit, depending on how far this stuff goes. I think the CPES covers at the rate of 200 to 300 sq ft per gallon. But I've heard numbers as high as 700.

Mike...

Mike, how much did you order?

I was just going to do the seams, but thinking about it, I think I'll do the whole tear.... it helps stabilize the walls and doors.

[Arne]

Mike, I am thinking you are right.. no sense cheaping out to save a hundred bucks when I could be using the tear for 10 years...

I already have 4 years on this one, with absolutely no structural problems, and it was all CPESed... no seam cracks even after breaking the tongue and having the trailer drop on the highway at 55 mph and skid to a stop.....

Though the uniflex is a great coating, I will probably go cpes, a good primer till smooth, then a water based latex or bright side.. still deciding on the final coat, but have time for that.. it's down the road a couple of months.

I've had good luck with bright side but it chips... though it is easily touched up...

AFter all the talk about how good water based paints are getting, and since I paint everything white, I think a high quality exterior paint from
Benj Moore might serve me well if applied correctly.

[Alphacarina]

Yes, 200 to 250 sq ft per gallon - At least for the first couple coats

They recommend paint or epoxy over it - I would go with a couple of coats of rollered on epoxy if you want to sand it smooth enough to look good under automotive enamel - You don't want the woodgrain showing through

http://www.rotdoctor.com/test/plywood/plywood.html

Some pretty valuable 'conclusions' at the end

Don

[shoeman]

Arne,

I ordered a 2 gallon unit. I figure since I'm going to have $2K to $3K into this ET, I might as well protect all the wood from leaks, hidden or otherwise. Plus It'll give me a nice surface to shoot car paint onto... I may end up buying another gallon unit, depending on how far this stuff goes. I think the CPES covers at the rate of 200 to 300 sq ft per gallon. But I've heard numbers as high as 700.

Mike...

Mike, how much did you order?

I was just going to do the seams, but thinking about it, I think I'll do the whole tear.... it helps stabilize the walls and doors.

Have you applied the stuff yet? I'm very interested in how it works for you since I'm considering an automotive paint finish too. Spill yer guts!

[Arne]

Anyone using CPES: It has tons of volatiles in it.. once you put it on, it flashes (meaning it now has a large area for the volatiles to escape from immediately).

I recommend you only use it out of doors, unless you have an appropriate respirator.

The first time I used it, it stunk like crazy.. the second time, I kind of got to like it.... that was worrisome/g/. kidding aside, it is very powerful stuff when you smell it.

[Airspeed]

Are you trying to smooth the suface in prep for paint? If so,I use regular body filler thinned with "Plastik Honey" to smooth my loudspeakers.
I spread it over the entire surface with a 12" drywall knife and sand it smooth when it hardens. It really works great and is easy to get a perfect
smooth surface.