What gauge?

Ask questions about Harbor Freight trailers, or questions about building your own...

Postby Alphacarina » Thu Jul 05, 2007 7:43 am

BrwBier wrote:I'm not an enginer or anything so maybe someone could explain how the grade of bolt could increase stiffness? :thinking:
The bolt holes are a bit larger than the bolts themselves, so the bolts actually hold the two pieces of metal together by compression - That compression prevents the 2 pieces of metal from moving against one another to the limit of travel allowed by the larger holes which is what they would do if all the bolts were loose. The tighter the bolts, the stiffer the 'connection' between the two pieces of metal

Higher grade bolts permit higher torque which equates to higher stiffness. If you sat the 2 opposite corners of a rectangular frame on a cinderblock and you and a friend both pushed down with your bodyweight on the other 2 opposite, unsupported corners, you would see the (bolted together) frame flex - Lots more than it would if all the connections were welded. Using higher grade bolts and more torque would stiffen it some, though probably not to the point that welding all the joints would

Don
Last edited by Alphacarina on Thu Jul 05, 2007 7:48 am, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
Alphacarina
500 Club
 
Posts: 826
Images: 4
Joined: Tue Jun 19, 2007 3:26 pm
Location: Ocean Springs MS

Postby asianflava » Thu Jul 05, 2007 2:52 pm

Alphacarina wrote:
BrwBier wrote:I'm not an enginer or anything so maybe someone could explain how the grade of bolt could increase stiffness? :thinking:
The bolt holes are a bit larger than the bolts themselves, so the bolts actually hold the two pieces of metal together by compression - That compression prevents the 2 pieces of metal from moving against one another to the limit of travel allowed by the larger holes which is what they would do if all the bolts were loose. The tighter the bolts, the stiffer the 'connection' between the two pieces of metal

Higher grade bolts permit higher torque which equates to higher stiffness. If you sat the 2 opposite corners of a rectangular frame on a cinderblock and you and a friend both pushed down with your bodyweight on the other 2 opposite, unsupported corners, you would see the (bolted together) frame flex - Lots more than it would if all the connections were welded. Using higher grade bolts and more torque would stiffen it some, though probably not to the point that welding all the joints would

Don


That's is somewhat true but you are still limited to the strength of the metal being bolted together. If the angle or channel can take so much force, it will bend no matter how tightly it is bolted together.
User avatar
asianflava
8000 Club
8000 Club
 
Posts: 8412
Images: 45
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2004 5:11 am
Location: CO, Longmont

Postby Wangofree » Thu Jul 05, 2007 6:18 pm

Tear Les wrote:Hi Mike,

I got the HF1740 so that's the one I took the dimensions off of in the above post.

The bolts that came with my trailer are graded bolts (I'll have to go back and look at the markings to tell you which since I don't remember what they are now) with nylon locking nuts and they're hefty (I can measure them if you'd like but the bolts take a 17mm wrench and the nuts a 16mm. So what's that? Like maybe a 12mm bolt body?).

Once put together the trailer is very rigid.


Thanks for the details Les. That's reassuring information. I noticed you hail from Whidbey Island. My father was stationed there in the 50's. What a great place to call home, albeit it was for only 3 years, but it was heaven on earth. I can still smell the salmon in the smokehouses we use to visit. :)

Take care,
Mike
User avatar
Wangofree
Teardrop Inspector
 
Posts: 23
Images: 115
Joined: Mon Nov 27, 2006 9:47 pm
Location: Lawrence, KS
Top

Postby bdosborn » Thu Jul 05, 2007 9:10 pm

The bolts that originally came with my trailer were terrible. They were super soft and the washers deformed very easily. Plus the washers were too small to spread the bolt load properly. And finally, no nylocs , all lock washers. The grade 5s with nylocs and proper washers held much tighter than the stock bolts.
Bruce
2009 6.5'X11' TTT - Boxcar
All it takes is a speck of faith and a few kilowatts of sweat and grace.
Image
Boxcar Build
aVANger Build
User avatar
bdosborn
Donating Member
 
Posts: 5594
Images: 806
Joined: Wed May 05, 2004 11:10 pm
Location: CO, Littleton
Top

Postby Wangofree » Fri Jul 06, 2007 6:54 am

bdosborn wrote:The bolts that originally came with my trailer were terrible. They were super soft and the washers deformed very easily. Plus the washers were too small to spread the bolt load properly. And finally, no nylocs , all lock washers. The grade 5s with nylocs and proper washers held much tighter than the stock bolts.
Bruce


Bruce, and everyone else who's built a trailer,
I'm wondering if you guys use any type of lock tight on your bolts? Does a Nyloc negate the need for a locking liquid?

Also, I haven't heard of anyone using a torque wrench to evenly tighten everything...does everyone just tighten things until "it feels right"?

Mike
User avatar
Wangofree
Teardrop Inspector
 
Posts: 23
Images: 115
Joined: Mon Nov 27, 2006 9:47 pm
Location: Lawrence, KS
Top

Postby bdosborn » Fri Jul 06, 2007 8:19 am

Wangofree wrote:
Bruce, and everyone else who's built a trailer,
I'm wondering if you guys use any type of lock tight on your bolts? Does a Nyloc negate the need for a locking liquid?

Also, I haven't heard of anyone using a torque wrench to evenly tighten everything...does everyone just tighten things until "it feels right"?

Mike


I've never had a nyloc come loose, even on the old jeep that I used to beat to pieces every weekend.

A torque wrench seems like it would be over kill but it wouldn't hurt.

Bruce
2009 6.5'X11' TTT - Boxcar
All it takes is a speck of faith and a few kilowatts of sweat and grace.
Image
Boxcar Build
aVANger Build
User avatar
bdosborn
Donating Member
 
Posts: 5594
Images: 806
Joined: Wed May 05, 2004 11:10 pm
Location: CO, Littleton
Top

Postby bledsoe3 » Sun Jul 08, 2007 2:10 am

I use the German torque scale. It's called good'n tite. Nyloc's require no locking liquid. I do however replace any Nyloc that has been loosened.
If you do what you've always done, you'll get what you've always got.
User avatar
bledsoe3
3000 Club
3000 Club
 
Posts: 3694
Images: 112
Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2005 5:55 am
Location: Oregon, Portland
Top

Postby asianflava » Sun Jul 08, 2007 4:02 am

Nylocks should have at least 3 threads sticking out the top.
User avatar
asianflava
8000 Club
8000 Club
 
Posts: 8412
Images: 45
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2004 5:11 am
Location: CO, Longmont
Top

Previous

Return to Trailer and Chassis Secrets

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests