New builder questions

[jasonnilsson]

Hello, my wife and I have been tossing around the idea of building a teardrop of our own and i think it's about time we get going on it. As such I have what is sure to be the first of many questions regarding it's construction. We were thinking of using 1X1 steel tubing to frame out the sides and for the ceiling ribs that will all be welded together and to the bottom frame. my first question is; will this be overkill? I would like to be able to climb my 300# butt up on top as we spend all summer at the drag races and it would be a good way to get a better view of the track. We also live in Alaska and where we camp there is a pretty good chance that we could end up with a 500+lb bear climbing on top (don't worry pics would follow!). My second question is; what would be the best method of attaching the side and ceiling panels to the metal frame? Our plans include using R-Tech expanded polystyrene with visqueen skin for the insulation (this is Alaska..) inbetween two panels with Starbrite on the roof and wood on the outside of the sides. We are probably going to use birch on the interior. Any advise is greatly appreciated!
Thanks, Jason Nilsson

[JunkMan]

You might check out Sum's Popup Teardrop page in the hall of Fame, I think it has a steel frame.

The only problem I would see in using steel to frame the sides and roof is that it wouldn't insulate as well (the wood framing acts as a thermal break, the steel would transfer the cold). I would assume that insulation would be handy in Alaska You could use steel, then attach 1/2" wood furring strips inside to give it a better thermal break, not to mention it would allow you to use thicker insulation.

As for attaching the skin, I have built enclosed motorcycle trailers and used large head pop rivits to hold the skin on. I have also seen people use sheet metal screws. If you have an aluminum skin over the wood, you could attach the wood with countersunk screws or rivits, then apply the aluminum over the wood like you would with a traditional frame.

On the inside, I am afraid you would have screw or rivit heads showing, I can't think of an easy way to install the plywood and hide the fasteners.

[jasonnilsson]

Thanks for the suggestions! I like the idea of rivits. We'll use a venier over the wood on the inside for looks, so it would hide the rivits or screws. Plus 1x1 steel + (1/2 in furring strips x2)=2in of insulation! That's the most common thickness here! Guess I had better get my drill charging!
Thanks, Jason

[Keith]

Take a look at our web page. We constructed our trailer with 1" square tubing for the frame with .062 aluminim skin. There is a problem with cold transfer through the steel. We get a small amount of condensation on roof over the steel tubing. It hasn't been enough to cause any problems. I wouldn't be a bit afraid to climb on top of our trailer as you mentioned.

Keith

[jasonnilsson]

WOW That's almost exactly what we had in mind! Our plans call for the Cub profile but an additional foot in every direction. Our's will have wood sides and dimondplate on top. When you got the steel it was already rolled into circles? Those interiors look great! We're going to use birch. (I think)
your site has givin me alot of insperation!
Jason

[jasonnilsson]

I forgot to ask.. Do you know how heavy your trailor is?
thanks
Jason

[Keith]

Hi Jason,

We roll the rings our self on a ring roller. There are a total of four different radius for each hoop. We cut the rings to length and weld them together to get the profile.

I'm not sure how much our trailers weigh. I would guess somewhere around 1200 pounds.

Keith.