I'm going to re-use my old trailer, and...

[Cliffmeister2000]

It's 52" x 84" (4'4" x 7')

It looks a little flimsy. It's made of 2" angle iron, but not 1/4". Maybe 3/16"? Also rusty, as the builder obviously did nothing to protect it, not even paint except the exposed tongue! Angle grinder with wire brush attachment to be applied soon!



Also, when looking at it from the front, the left front corner is about an inch lower than the right front corner.

Now for the questions:

1. I plan on putting a weekender on it. I thought it was 4x8 before I tore it down. Shoud I extend it to a true 8 feet before I put the weekender on it? The weekender will be 10' long, and the original plan was to allow it to extend one foot front and rear.

2. Should I worry about the frame being slightly askew? I'm thinking that it wasn't askew before I stripped off the old teardrop, so the plywood base was probably helping to add rigidity.

3. Should I add bracing to the tongue? Most trailers have diagonal braces, but the tongue on this thing is the beefiest thing on it. It is welded to the front of the frame and the 1st crossmember. There is a 2nd crossmember and the back of the frame, so the tongue extends 1/3 of the way into the frame. I plan to put a box in the hole afforded by the 1st and 2nd crossmember.

Thanks in advance,

Cliff

[brian_bp]

I can understand wanting to re-use a perfectly functional axle, but if the frame needs any significant work it would make more sense to me to start fresh, and get a sound frame of the right configuration... built from scratch. You can still re-use the axle and springs.

My guess is that the new frame could be laid out, cut and fitted, then tacked together in not much more time that it would take to completely wire-brush the old frame and make even the smallest modification.

The tongue may be strong, and it attaches to two frame members, but neither is diagonally braced and the design as-is looks marginal to me. I would be interested in reading Andrew's assessment.

Steel is cheap and the old steel can be sold for scrap to recover part of the cost.

[Alphacarina]

I can understand wanting to re-use a perfectly functional axle, but if the frame needs any significant work it would make more sense to me to start fresh, and get a sound frame of the right configuration... built from scratch. You can still re-use the axle and springs

That would be my recommendation as well

Assuming the axle is the length you want, building a brand new frame from 2 inch by 1/4 angle would be the way to go - Shouldn't be over $100 for materials and you'll get brand new (not rusty) metal, made to order for the trailer you want to build for not much more cost or time than trying to fix up something that isn't in good shape to start with

Don

[Cliffmeister2000]

brian_bp wrote:

I can understand wanting to re-use a perfectly functional axle, but if the frame needs any significant work it would make more sense to me to start fresh, and get a sound frame of the right configuration... built from scratch. You can still re-use the axle and springs
That would be my recommendation as well

Don wrote:

Assuming the axle is the length you want, building a brand new frame from 2 inch by 1/4 angle would be the way to go - Shouldn't be over $100 for materials and you'll get brand new (not rusty) metal, made to order for the trailer you want to build for not much more cost or time than trying to fix up something that isn't in good shape to start with

I'm crying here... I confess that I don't know as much as I need to, but I know a ton more than I did 2 years ago when I bought the old one, and 10 tons more than last weekend when I decided to skin this thing. So, basically, the original purchase price is in the toilet, minus (maybe) the axle and the fenders. Sheesh!

So, maybe $100 in iron, and I would have to either pay a welder, or buy a welder and teach myself how to weld.

I'm guessing my Weekender will hit $7k by the time I hit the road with it. Can you spell FRUSTRATED!?!?

- Cliff

[rbeemer]

Don,

Is your trailer frame bentor is the whole side lower(front and back).

If the whole side is lower ypu may have a problem with the axle. I think it is tough just for a corner to be lower and nothing showing that the frame is not bent besides crappy welding

[Cliffmeister2000]

rbeemer says:

Is your trailer frame bentor is the whole side lower(front and back).

It isn't really bent. It looks to me like it just sags a little. The opposite corner (rear right) seems equally high. I assumed the metal wasn't welded properly. There isn't any reason to assume the buildr did anything correctly at this point.

I have towed this as a teardrop for several thousand miles, and it tracks beautifully.

Cliff

[Podunkfla]

Cliff... I don't see anything wrong with beefing up the trailer you have a bit and using it. I'd add a couple angle braces to the tongue and check all the welds. It looks like your axle is far enough back you could add some length to it too. As for the strength of the angle iron... Most teardrops get a great deal of their strength from the whole assembly becoming a "torsion box" and a massive frame is not needed. Look at all the ones built on the lightweight HF frame? Just my .02
~ Brick

[Nitetimes]

OK, I'm gonna go the other way here. Is the frame rusted thin anywhere? If not, spend an hour or 2 with a wire wheel, get some of that rust paint (can't think of the name off hand), paint it up as per directions.
Next, sit the frame on four jack stands, get it level. Now build your trailer on top of it to whatever length you want. Leave the stands in position until the trailer is done. Once you have the frame attached to the box permanently everything will stay where it's supposed to be.
If your frame is 1/8" angle or more it is plenty heavy, 1/4" angle is a bit much for these trailers.
Don't panic, you got a decent frame, use it!

[Cliffmeister2000]

Cliff... I don't see anything wrong with beefing up the trailer you have a bit and using it. I'd add a couple angle braces to the tongue and check all the welds. It looks like your axle is far enough back you could add some length to it too. As for the strength of the angle iron... Most teardrops get a great deal of their strength from the whole assembly becoming a "torsion box" and a massive frame is not needed. Look at all the ones built on the lightweight HF frame? Just my .02
~ Brick

Thanks, Brick. I have more time than money, so scraping off the rust still sounds like a plan. I was thinking the axle is 'way back there, so if I extend some 1x2 tubing an additional foot. Maybe the full length of the trailer. I want to put a trailer hitch on the back for my bicycles. I would go ahead and make a "bumper" on the back.

Seriously, if I buy a welder, can I get away with an old fashioned arc welder or do I need to get a MIG? If I need a MIG, I understand I need one that is like a 160 or more?

[Cliffmeister2000]

Rich says:

Is the frame rusted thin anywhere? If not, spend an hour or 2 with a wire wheel, get some of that rust paint (can't think of the name off hand), paint it up as per directions.

Thanks, Rich! The rust is superficial everywhere except under where the battery box was on the tongue. I will scrape that off first to see if it's just bubbled paint or it it is really bad. The rest looks like the hour or two you mention would handle it. Wish me luck! I would rather buy a welder than a trailer, but I would rather buy wood than anything!

Cliff

[Podunkfla]

Cliff... I don't see anything wrong with beefing up the trailer you have a bit and using it. I'd add a couple angle braces to the tongue and check all the welds. It looks like your axle is far enough back you could add some length to it too. As for the strength of the angle iron... Most teardrops get a great deal of their strength from the whole assembly becoming a "torsion box" and a massive frame is not needed. Look at all the ones built on the lightweight HF frame? Just my .02
~ Brick

Thanks, Brick. I have more time than money, so scraping off the rust still sounds like a plan. I was thinking the axle is 'way back there, so if I extend some 1x2 tubing an additional foot. Maybe the full length of the trailer. I want to put a trailer hitch on the back for my bicycles. I would go ahead and make a "bumper" on the back.

Seriously, if I buy a welder, can I get away with an old fashioned arc welder or do I need to get a MIG? If I need a MIG, I understand I need one that is like a 160 or more?

No question about it, I'd buy a little mig over a stick welder today. They are easier to learn to do good welds with by far IMHO. As for how big? Even the little 125 amp mig flux core welders will do a good job on most mild steel home type welding. Sure, a bigger/better welder is always nice... Buy a name brand good one if you can afford it. But, I have welded with one of these little cheapies and was quite surprised how well it did.
Here's one on ebay for $99.:
http://tinyurl.com/2vssxd

I have occasionally seen the little Lincoln Mig 140 on ebay for about $200. Nice little welder for the money.

Hmmm... I just spotted this one on ebay... Looks like the same welder Northern Tool has for $329. Plus, it comes with the guage/regulator for shielding gas too:
http://tinyurl.com/3b47uf

[Nitetimes]

ey.

Hmmm... I just spotted this one on ebay... Looks like the same welder Northern Tool has for $329. Plus, it comes with the guage/regulator for shielding gas too:
http://tinyurl.com/3b47uf

"NEW" INDUSTRIAL MIG WELDER 115 VOLT 22-135 AMP WELDERS

Now that's just too funny. I don't have any problem with these little welders but industrial and 115v welder in the same sentence is just a bit of an exaggeration methinks.

[Podunkfla]

ey.

Hmmm... I just spotted this one on ebay... Looks like the same welder Northern Tool has for $329. Plus, it comes with the guage/regulator for shielding gas too:
http://tinyurl.com/3b47uf

"NEW" INDUSTRIAL MIG WELDER 115 VOLT 22-135 AMP WELDERS

Now that's just too funny. I don't have any problem with these little welders but industrial and 115v welder in the same sentence is just a bit of an exaggeration methinks.

Yeah, that's right up there with: Microsoft Works, military intelligence, jumbo shrimp and Advanced BASIC.

[Nitetimes]

ey.

Hmmm... I just spotted this one on ebay... Looks like the same welder Northern Tool has for $329. Plus, it comes with the guage/regulator for shielding gas too:
http://tinyurl.com/3b47uf

"NEW" INDUSTRIAL MIG WELDER 115 VOLT 22-135 AMP WELDERS

Now that's just too funny. I don't have any problem with these little welders but industrial and 115v welder in the same sentence is just a bit of an exaggeration methinks.

Yeah, that's right up there with: Microsoft Works, military intelligence, jumbo shrimp and Advanced BASIC.

Ain't that the truth!?!?