Is this Correct? RW Johnson Hatch section of Hinge

[Classic Finn]

Dear friends

I am now installing or attempting to install the RW Johnson Hinge since it seems more stronger than the living hinge I purchased ...

Before I go any further I just have to ask you folks if this is correct now?
this portion of the hinge is 68 inches in length.. and the width of our tear from outer wall to wall is exactly 61 inches.

Do I need to cut this now? Do I screw it down with what type of screws recommended with a glue under?
This section sits on top of the fiberglass skin correct?

Here is a pic it as of right now. How much do I need to cut off the hatch section? I know it must clear the inside walls ... but is there any gap there between the end of it and inner wall sides?



And here it is again with the body portion of the hinge. How much do I cut off this section?




Im nervous as all - Hel-sinki with this..

I dont want to mess this up since these hinges are just to far out of reach to order another one..

Classic Finn

[sdtripper2]

To Our "Fav-Finn"

You got a PM from da Trippster to show pics once more
and below is da MadOnes words to read and heed ~



Jack AKA (Madjack) talks about proper installation of Hurricane hinge:

I made my hatch 1/4" smaller than the sidewalls, so that's 1/8" space on
each side for free hatch movement.

To keep the hurricane hinge from sliding...1) cut the hinge so that it is 1"
longer overall than the width of the tear...this will act a deflector to keep
rain water from running into the galley 2) on the hatch portion of the hinge,
cut it off so that it is 1/2" shorter overall than the body portion 3) drill a
hole in the body portion of the hinge barrel 1/8th" from the ends and run a
small screw down into the hole after mounting is complete...this will keep
the hinge from sliding and from leaking.... ...also a piece of 1" x 3/16(or
1/4)" closed cell weather stripping, a couple of inches long put in-between
the closed faces of the hinge will help keep water out...we have done this
and have had no issues with the hinge...

...once again...cut the hinge AT LEAST 1" longer than than the body is
wide...this will give you 1/2" overhang on both sides to act as a rain
deflector...cut the hatch side a 1/2" shorter than the body side...this will
give you room to insert a screw into the body side barrel(both sides) to
keep the hatch hinge centered and prevent it from sliding side to side....
madjack

p.s we used insert edge molding and put an insert in it and the hinge...it
should be available from your local RV dealer or online from places like
RVsurplus...

[doug hodder]

Heikki...I typically cut the hatch piece shorter than the body piece...only by like an 1/4-1/2 of an inch or so...then, just take a hacksaw and trim the flange (downward portion as it sits on the trailer) so that it will tuck inside of the sides of your galley. Doug

[Classic Finn]

To Our "Fav-Finn"

You got a PM from da Trippster to show pics once more
and below is da MadOnes words to read and heed ~



Jack AKA (Madjack) talks about proper installation of Hurricane hinge:

I made my hatch 1/4" smaller than the sidewalls, so that's 1/8" space on
each side for free hatch movement.

To keep the hurricane hinge from sliding...1) cut the hinge so that it is 1"
longer overall than the width of the tear...this will act a deflector to keep
rain water from running into the galley 2) on the hatch portion of the hinge,
cut it off so that it is 1/2" shorter overall than the body portion 3) drill a
hole in the body portion of the hinge barrel 1/8th" from the ends and run a
small screw down into the hole after mounting is complete...this will keep
the hinge from sliding and from leaking.... ...also a piece of 1" x 3/16(or
1/4)" closed cell weather stripping, a couple of inches long put in-between
the closed faces of the hinge will help keep water out...we have done this
and have had no issues with the hinge...

...once again...cut the hinge AT LEAST 1" longer than than the body is
wide...this will give you 1/2" overhang on both sides to act as a rain
deflector...cut the hatch side a 1/2" shorter than the body side...this will
give you room to insert a screw into the body side barrel(both sides) to
keep the hatch hinge centered and prevent it from sliding side to side....
madjack

p.s we used insert edge molding and put an insert in it and the hinge...it
should be available from your local RV dealer or online from places like
RVsurplus...

Ok I must learn this script so I can shoot it out from memory...
Ok Now does anyone have the photo of the edge moulding or insert or is this the flat plastic or rubber piece that goes in the body section of the hinge??

Classic Finn

[Classic Finn]

Heikki...I typically cut the hatch piece shorter than the body piece...only by like an 1/4-1/2 of an inch or so...then, just take a hacksaw and trim the flange (downward portion as it sits on the trailer) so that it will tuck inside of the sides of your galley. Doug

Doug is it really so that this hinge by RW Johnson is not water proof?
Especially when the hatch is up? Or is it also not waterproof when its in the normal closed position?

Now Im getting "Doubt Vibes" ...

Heikki

[Gringo Loco]

Heikki, you might want to look at this thread. I think this is what you are looking for

[sdtripper2]

Ok Now does anyone have the photo of the edge moulding or insert or is this the flat plastic or rubber piece that goes in the body section of the hinge??

Vinyl & Plastic Screw Cover Clicky


Mike used it here on this build ~ Not seen that plain but the vinyl fits in the grove to cover the screws.

[Classic Finn]

Ok Now does anyone have the photo of the edge moulding or insert or is this the flat plastic or rubber piece that goes in the body section of the hinge??

Vinyl & Plastic Screw Cover Clicky


Mike used it here on this build ~ Not seen that plain but the vinyl fits in the grove to cover the screws.

Ok now I see some sort of light... I think I saw a similar vinyl insert here in the Land of the Reindeer.
I,ll recheck ..

Heikki

[Classic Finn]

Ok Now does anyone have the photo of the edge moulding or insert or is this the flat plastic or rubber piece that goes in the body section of the hinge??

Vinyl & Plastic Screw Cover Clicky


Mike used it here on this build ~ Not seen that plain but the vinyl fits in the grove to cover the screws.

Thanks Mr.Tripper... Expect my hinge to be installed by Spring of 2008... I gotta read all this several times ..

I need to come up with that end cap on the hinge..somewho...

[Classic Finn]

Heikki, you might want to look at this thread. I think this is what you are looking for

Thanks Chris...

Heikki

[doug hodder]

Heikki...I found that the hinge isn't water proof when the hatch is open and like a gallon of water dumps off the ez-up onto the hatch in one big dump and it powers itself over the curve on the inside of the hinge profile...like happened at Minden...under normal conditions, driving down the road in a huge downpour it is water proof, and at least will handle the water load in a typical rain with the hatch open, but a big dump of water on the galley side is tough for it to handle, it was just really excessive.

At Minden, many of us had to deal with some "out of the ordinary" water situations.

On mine...I buried the trailer body portion under the roof skin...didn't use any plastic filler strip. No leaks from that side. On the hatch side, the flap on the exterior acts like a roof shingle...I sealed mine up really well, 3M 5200, but the large load of water that poured over it off the canopy was too much for the profile of the hinge extrusion...and I was the dummy that pushed on the backside of the canopy to cause the dump...under normal circumstances you'll be fine...but a midwest afternoon thunderstorm, that can float a Kayak on the road with an open hatch and a canopy full of water is a bit much for it... just what I experienced...Doug

[Micro469]

Heikki.. I'm very happy with the way my living hinge turned out. Time will tell how long it lasts...

[Classic Finn]

Heikki.. I'm very happy with the way my living hinge turned out. Time will tell how long it lasts...

John that looks sharp.. As does your entire tear.. I,ll get this worked out.
As the folks said I dont have the cabinets in yet and right now the counter isnt inside either till I get all the other work done..

Thanks John
Heikki

[Isalvus]

I'm trying to get as much done on my build before my hinge comes (which should be by end of next week), but I have one question you guys can help me with. With the RW hinge I'm assuming from pics that you screw the body section of the hinge down into that last spar on the body and the hatch section is screwed perpendicular to that into the top cross member in the hatch. Am I right?

[Classic Finn]

I'm trying to get as much done on my build before my hinge comes (which should be by end of next week), but I have one question you guys can help me with. With the RW hinge I'm assuming from pics that you screw the body section of the hinge down into that last spar on the body and the hatch section is screwed perpendicular to that into the top cross member in the hatch. Am I right?

this is my 1st attempt also.. but the piece that has the groove that the insert goes into screws into the body section.

And the piece that has the circle or half circle or (Upside down U shape)is the one that goes into the hatch..

Remember also that Cabin section of the hinge is mounted right down on the framing before roof skin is applied...


Steve (sdtripper2) has a good set of directions there..with the famous Madjack.. I have that printed out and Ive read it about 5 times... just to make sure.

Take your time with it .. no sense rushing it. think ahead ..I know I had to.

Classic Finn