bobhenry wrote:Molybedenum Disulphide is a metal it is added as a ultrafine powder at 3 to 15 % by weight to the grease base. It is an excellent assembly paste at 45 to 60% blend. I dry coat pistons and crank bearings with just the powder during engine rebuilds. The reason to not mix greases is that there are about 6 popular familys of grease based on the method of suponification. A bentonite clay based grease will literally fall apart if mixed with the likes of lithiam or bariam based grease even with just small amounts of the contaminating remains. So always clean thoroughly and inspect the bearings for any abrasive scratches. Clean the hub assemblys as well . Resist the temptation to spin the bearing dry with compressed air (They can literally explode ) .
The red dye is to indicate the addition of a tackafier. ( yeah it makes it tacky or sticky if you prefer). The white is lead oxide usually used on areas where we folk may come into contact with it like car door hinge and door locks. White grease is more of a general purpose grease and I would be real reluctant to use it in a high temp situation. A moly/lithiam base grease would be my personal choice.
I worked 2 1/2 years in a lubricants lab blending and testing greases and lubricating oils and paints. Later managed the blending plant in Fort Worth.
Heck, I knew there was a reason I didn't mix greases. I just didn't have all the words and couldn't put them together right if I had them.
Thanks Bob,
Edited:
Oh, BTW, also used Moly working on adult air rifles (Beeman, BSA, Etc). Used it to grease the pistons and springs. High compression and High temps. Oil (petroleum base) would detonate.
If it's not broken, you're not trying hard enough.