Pro's and Con's of mini frig over cooler in galley

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Pro's and Con's of mini frig over cooler in galley

Postby Tcurr » Mon Sep 24, 2007 7:48 am

Sorry for the typeing hand is wrapped from the surgery,

Was curious if anyone used a mini frig over cooler in there galley or any suggestions on it.

Also is there a benefit to going dc compared to ac if we will never rough it camp?

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

Trailer is together and have the wood for my floor. :D
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Postby Alphacarina » Mon Sep 24, 2007 8:43 am

I don't have lots of trailer experience, but I've lived with DC refrigeration on sailboats for many years and installed and repaired many of them

Do you need refrigeration 24/7? Will you load the box before leaving home and then expect it to be cool all of the time from that point on? - If so, then there aren't many options except to have it run on 12 volts so it will have power while you're travelling

Top loading boxes make lots more sense than any conventional looking front loading box for the simple reason that battery wise, they are MUCH cheaper to run. When you open any front loading box, all of the cold stored inside 'falls out' and you refill the box with new, warm, moist air which your refrigeration system then spends the next hour or so (and lots of your battery power) to cool again. Since cold is heavier than warm, you can go into a top loading box and not dump out all the cold - Much 'cheaper' to run, if you're on battery power

Good 12 volt refrigeration all has one thing in common - It ain't cheap. Near the top of the heap are the Engel units (and a couple of other brands) which use a more efficient, less power hungry compressor to make the cold, but expect to invest $700 or so to get one

If you DON'T need your fridge to be cold 24/7, you have other options, like iceboxes and plug in units which you wouldn't need to run while travelling. Ice can quickly get expensive, but if you don't travel a lot or if it's only for short periods, the $700 that a DC cooler would cost you can buy a lot of ice ;)

If you never 'rough camp' you could use a more conventional 120VAC fridge and run it off an inverter while you're travelling and then plug it into camp power when you arrive at your destination

Several variables - You need to select the method that works best for how you use your trailer

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Postby Tcurr » Mon Sep 24, 2007 11:38 am

Some really good points, thanks for the input.
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Postby jeepr » Mon Sep 24, 2007 12:34 pm

I think Alphacarina about covered it! :lol:


I think a regular plug-in 110V refrigerator is the cheapest option outside of a cooler. The only disadvantage is trying to figure out how to keep it cool while traveling (Mr. A. addressed that), or let it get cold at home, unplug it and drive to where you are camping, then plug it back in. It may take a while for a refrigerator to cool down if you wait until you get to the campground and plug it in.

I like the 3-way refrigerators because if I am dry camping, I can run it on propane. But for my tear I am just going with a cooler.
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Postby madjack » Tue Sep 25, 2007 12:05 am

Don omitted one point about the 12v fridges...there are 2 basic types...the expensive ones like the Engels(around 700 bucks), which are compressor operated and work very well and there are thermoelectrics like those from Coleman(and many other brands)...they cost under 100 bucks and basically don't work...they are battery hogs and will only cool to no more than 40* below ambient...OK if the temps are in the mid 80's but if ambient temps get up into the 90, your baloney will turn green...not very pleasant...there are also absorbtion fridges that use ammonia and run on 12vdc, 120vac and propane...they start at around 400 bucks and work fairly well...I use 2r3 5day coolers(prefer Igloo over Coleman) with one for food with block ice, one for drinks with cube ice and the third for spare ice...I can load 'em all up and they will last me around 4 days before a trip to the ice store is needed.....
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Postby BrwBier » Tue Sep 25, 2007 6:23 am

A few thoughts about the much maligned thermoelectric coolers. First, I would never be without mine. They work great, BUT, like MadJack says they only cool to 43 below ambient temp. We do not have kids and do not travel during the hot months, so if it's 90 outside, I'm at home. At middle 80s and below you cant beat them for convenience, no ice to get everything wet. You do have to watch out for things freezing when in the low 70s and below. As far as being battery hogs, we have never had a problem, we stop and do things when traveling and can be away from the car four at least 4 hours and never unplug it, more than that and we just cover it with a foil blanket and it keeps the temp just fine. We haven't camped with out electric but if we did we still have the option of putting ice in it. To conclude, if I lived down south or traveled during schools out season I might think differently, assess you situation and don't believe when you here how terrible they are.
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Postby Gaelen » Tue Sep 25, 2007 7:28 am

I like coolers--the way I use a cooler, it's more flexible (and lighter!) than a mini-fridge.

Just a thought about DC vs. AC...I don't currently have a working interior 12v system in the Sunspot; it's on the winter 'to do' list. It doesn't have a 110 system either. At first, I really didn't think that would matter. I don't dry camp very often, so I can always get an electric site or access to an outlet and run an extension cord. And the only electric things I really need to keep charged are the dogs' collars and the cell phone.

However, when I camp it's usually in a state park or state forest. Some really nice Adirondack parks don't have electric. In state parks, the non-electric sites are cheaper, $3-$5 a night cheaper. If you're camping more than a night or two, that really adds up. I'm camping this weekend at a state park--the difference between an electric site and a non-electric site is $5/night for six nights...and it's off season! That's $30--almost two extra nights worth of camping fees--just to have an electric site. We need the electricity to groom dogs, so going without isn't an option, but it really made me think about what I need and how I use electricity, even limited electricity.

I'm never going to need to run a/c or a microwave in the Sunspot and I fire up the propane stove to heat water for coffee. But for the couple of things that need power, paying for extra batteries to charge them + extra camping fees just isn't as efficient as having a simple 12v battery setup. I figure having 12v power available will pay for itself in extra camping fees and convenience--within one year, even if I only get to go out once a month in 2008. So it's on the to-do list. YMMV.
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Postby Roly Nelson » Mon Oct 01, 2007 10:57 pm

Just love my 12v/110v refer. Keeps things cold, even when on the road, since it is in the back seat. Never had a problem with the 40 degrees over ambieant problem. When using shore power, just plug 'er in, works just as well. Plus, if you flip the plug over, it becomes a heating unit which will keep the pot roast at just the right eating temps.

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Postby mikeschn » Tue Oct 02, 2007 4:08 am

I've got the 120v dorm style fridge. Compared to the units that MJ was talking about, this one way nice and cheap.

And so far everytime we've gone camping, we've had access to electric. And for transporting food we use a cooler in the back seat, with ice.

I suppose one of these days I'll buy a 2 way or 3 way unit, but until then this will have to do.

If you think you'll ever swap out your 120v fridge for a 3 way, you might want to plan ahead a little bit.

Mike...

P.S. I don't know what Roly has, but I've tried the thermoelectric, and I don't like it. The heat sink on the back keeps things cold as long as you have power to it. As soon as you turn the power off, the same heat sinks work really fast to bring the heat back into the fridge. :cry:
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Postby ARKPAT » Tue Oct 02, 2007 4:45 am

mikeschn Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 4:08 am Post subject:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I've got the 120v dorm style fridge. Compared to the units that MJ was talking about, this one way nice and cheap.

And so far everytime we've gone camping, we've had access to electric. And for transporting food we use a cooler in the back seat, with ice.

I suppose one of these days I'll buy a 2 way or 3 way unit, but until then this will have to do.

If you think you'll ever swap out your 120v fridge for a 3 way, you might want to plan ahead a little bit.

Mike...

P.S. I don't know what Roly has, but I've tried the thermoelectric, and I don't like it. The heat sink on the back keeps things cold as long as you have power to it. As soon as you turn the power off, the same heat sinks work really fast to bring the heat back into the fridge.

I have had the same results with this type of refrig unit also. :thumbsup:
I'm with Madjack and Mike on this one from personal experences. I even have the refrig with a burned up power cube and have used it from a 12volt 20 amp Power suppy to power it up. It holds down the box it is in for now.

I may use it as a food wamer some day or I could set the food on the battery that power the refrig and warm it that way. HE HE


:thumbsup:

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Postby Ira » Tue Oct 02, 2007 3:31 pm

This all depends on how much beer you drink, and how fast you drink it.

I don't believe there's a propane, 110 or 220 fridge that can fit in a TD and keep up with my consumption on any level.

If you're fat and eat a lot, substitute food for the above scenario before making any final decisions.
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Postby Alphacarina » Tue Oct 02, 2007 7:01 pm

The 45 quart Engel holds 60 cans - If that's more than a day's supply for you (even for you and a significant other) I hope you're not driving around too much

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Postby Tcurr » Wed Oct 03, 2007 7:49 am

Well,
I was going to go 110 at first pass thru, then with all the great Ideas, thoughts about use etc, I have decided to do a two way system with both ac and dc.

I appriciate all the input. And the other thought with all of it, I have two boys, One cooler is considered lunch to them. Then add in the beer etc I need half the bed of the truck to carry enough coolers to cover a weekend trip :).
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Postby ARKPAT » Wed Oct 03, 2007 9:19 pm

Tcurr Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2007 7:49 am Post subject:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Well,
I was going to go 110 at first pass thru, then with all the great Ideas, thoughts about use etc, I have decided to do a two way system with both ac and dc.

I appriciate all the input. And the other thought with all of it, I have two boys, One cooler is considered lunch to them. Then add in the beer etc I need half the bed of the truck to carry enough coolers to cover a weekend trip .


That that's an idea. Put plastic down in your truck bed and Fill the bed of your truck with ice and cover! :roll:

Hijacked!

:thumbsup:

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Postby Roly Nelson » Sun Oct 07, 2007 2:21 am

Hmmm, don't know much about "heat sink" but my Coleman 12v/110v fridge works great on an extended trip, (like back to Minden and Madison) never had to buy ice and it was so cold that my milk began to freeze. I keep it plugged into the car 12v supply on the road and use the fridge-converter when plugged into 110 when I arrive at the other end. Never tried it in 100 plus degree heat, and don't intend to.

I learned early on, not to switch positive and negitive alligator clips on the poles of my deep-cycle tear battery, or it'll heat what I want cooled, by accident. :thumbdown:

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