Stripping side two of the SlumberMAX SO - Could get long

[Steve_Cox]

That was really cool Dave. Thanks!

[Juneaudave]

Thank you!!! I know the pics aren't the best, and it takes awhile to download so many pics, and there is a better way to strip a Tear....but I really wanted to give back to the T&TTT board what I have discovered in my build journey!!! I'd sure like to see another documented stripper build to see another solution!!!

You guys are the BEST!!!

[Steve Frederick]

Very nice lesson!
Thanks

[Juneaudave]

Well...I've been slugging along...strip by strip...and have a couple of more weeks on the road before I have some time to finish side two of the SlumberMAX. Alaska winters come quickly...and you have to get your field work done while the gettings good!!

Just a thought on "strip conservation"...or how not to waste those long strips you worked so hard to cut...

After you have your layout lines...always work from the long strips to the short strips. Most likely..if you have a bad cut...and cut a strip short...you can always use it for the next strip!!!



Working from long to short is really important where you have both ends constrained and the strip indexed...a false move on the second cut leaves you short!!!



No matter how careful you are..there will always be miscuts. I've got to rip some stock tomorrow, so while I'm set up, I'll try to show a neat way to join short pieces using a 8:1 scarf joint into a long strip, or to cut out a bad spot!!!

[apratt]

Looking good Dave Will wait patiently for the next lessons.

[halfdome, Danny]

My little dowel pieces with wedges keep the strips snug. The wood lever holds the strip tight against the wood...there must be a better way but that is what I came up with!!!

Dave, I just found this tutorial of yours and I'm very impressed with your methods and willingness to share, Thanks.
You mentioned there must be another way to clamp. This is what I came up with when I had to build a pile of Maple box inserts for some showcases without the use of nails. Note the hole is for a screw and it's offset so all you need to do is crank it over with the handle.
The template was made from Maple scrap but the real cam clamps were out of particle board. Danny

[Juneaudave]

Dave, I just found this tutorial of yours and I'm very impressed with your methods and willingness to share, Thanks.
You mentioned there must be another way to clamp. This is what I came up with when I had to build a pile of Maple box inserts for some showcases without the use of nails. Note the hole is for a screw and it's offset so all you need to do is crank it over with the handle.
The template was made from Maple scrap but the real cam clamps were out of particle board. Danny

That's a better idea yet!!!

Those hardwood cams would last forever!!!

[t-vicky]

Juneaudave, Have been following this article with much interest. I am trying to build a slumbercoach. Not near as fancy as yours.
My question is, with the steam bent strips is there any spring back when you take them out of the jig? It would seem to be the best way to build my galley stringers to the right curve.
Keep up the good work & am looking forward to the next lesson. Thanks, Roger

[Steve Frederick]

About strips and stripping....

Wood selection: Most any wood can be cut into strips and used. But some are much harder and heavier and are significantly more difficult to work. A popular choice among the canoe and kayak builders is Western Red Ceder, but depending on where you live and what's available locally, Eastern White Ceder, basswood, cypress, spruces of various sorts may be readily available.

Most of the wood on the SlumberMAX is Western Red Ceder. It's plentiful up here. The 1/4 inch strips are ripped from 2x stock. Given two boards, one flat sawn and one quartersawn, I will always pick the flatsawn board to rip my strips from. That's because I like to end up with quartersawn strips. Quartersawn strips will sand and plane much more evenly once you get to that point.




On side one, I used a set of bead and cove canoe bits on most of the wood. When you are applying strips around the curvature of a canoe, bead and cove gives you a snugger fit....but on the flat side of a Tear...I really can't see going through the extra milling effort.



On a final note about strips...you can cut and plane enough strips for a teardrop trailer in a mornings work...but it can be a dusty, messy job. Try to time it for a nice day where you can work outside. I envy those with shops set up to deal with the mess!!!

Whenever I do a lot of strips, I use a gang blade set-up..

Two 7-1/4" blades on the arbor, with a shim in between. I made a zero clearance insert from 1/4" ply..raised the running blades through it.
I cut two strips each pass.

Oh boy! I'm thinking about another stripper..Boat or TD??

[goldcoop]

Steve-

How 'bout raising the bar way high and do something like the trailerboat?

Both in one build

Not overly curvaceous but challenging

Love your work

Cheers,

Coop

[Classic Finn]

Just Beautiful Work... Ive looked at this thread over and over again..and the more I look the more I like it..

You are so talented ..

Regards Classic Finn

[Steve Frederick]

I'm still waiting for someone to tell us how to keep Purpleheart "Purple"!
You have my gears turning Dave!!
Great job!

[Steve E]

Hope to see your teardrop Dave in person someday. Just beautiful!
My husband Steve did a strip canoe few years back...We can appreciate the work and creativity involved in your build.....Steve and Patty

[rbeemer]

I'm still waiting for someone to tell us how to keep Purpleheart "Purple"!

Keep it out of the sun

[halfdome, Danny]

I'm still waiting for someone to tell us how to keep Purpleheart "Purple"!

Keep it out of the sun

My Purple Heart tool box is kept in the shop and is slowly turning brown but it's been 12 years so far. Get the finish with the highest UV inhibitors. Danny