Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

by **Classic Finn** » Wed Oct 03, 2007 1:53 pm

I was outside installing the front forward lights.. turned the car key on and all worked.. then dash light went out and left back light with all side and forward lights on the tear..

Blinkers work on the car but not left back light or dash lights ...nor the trailer marker lights..

Is this the fuse that blew in the car or what? Im :cry:

Help Please.

Classic Finn :thinking:

by **Mary K** » Wed Oct 03, 2007 1:56 pm

I would check the fuses first Heikki..after that...better let the experts here help...

Sorry

Mk

by **elmo** » Wed Oct 03, 2007 2:06 pm

I would go borrow the neighbors car and try it again....but that is just me!

Sounds like a fuse, but now the fun part begins. Why did it blow in the first place?

by **Classic Finn** » Wed Oct 03, 2007 2:15 pm

Ok Im checking fuses 1st .... :oops:

I,ll try the neighbors car during the day...

Heikki

by **Classic Finn** » Wed Oct 03, 2007 2:24 pm

How can a person tell if these fuses are gone.. they are not the typical round narrow but flat square ones... ok except trying of course ..

Classic Finn

by **kurtibm** » Wed Oct 03, 2007 2:38 pm

Classic Finn wrote:How can a person tell if these fuses are gone.. they are not the typical round narrow but flat square ones... ok except trying of course ..

Classic Finn

Hopefully these are the one(s) you have and you'll be able to see from this pic.....

The wire 'bend' within the fuse will have melted and the break should be visible..

by **MOKI SEAKER** » Wed Oct 03, 2007 2:47 pm

Be sure that you have a good ground,,, Jim G

by **brian_bp** » Wed Oct 03, 2007 2:53 pm

Two more ways to check those ATO or similar fuses:

While it is still in the fusebox, probe the little hole on each end with a voltmeter (or test light) probe - if you see 12V on one end and not the other, the fuse must be blown (if it were not, the two would be connected). The holes just let you reach the contacts.

If it is out of the fusebox, use an ohmmeter (or continuity tester). A blown fuse is an open circuit (infinite resistance, no continuity); a good fuse is just a bit of wire (very low resistance, good continuity).

by **cuyeda** » Wed Oct 03, 2007 5:27 pm

brian_bp wrote:snip...The holes just let you reach the contacts.

If it is out of the fusebox, use an ohmmeter (or continuity tester). A blown fuse is an open circuit (infinite resistance, no continuity); a good fuse is just a bit of wire (very low resistance, good continuity).

I never noticed the test holes on fuse before. Good to know!

by **Classic Finn** » Wed Oct 03, 2007 6:29 pm

kurtibm wrote:
Classic Finn wrote:How can a person tell if these fuses are gone.. they are not the typical round narrow but flat square ones... ok except trying of course ..

Classic Finn

Hopefully these are the one(s) you have and you'll be able to see from this pic.....

The wire 'bend' within the fuse will have melted and the break should be visible..

Yep those be the kind we have in our Baguette Carrier as I call it..

Thank You for the advice.. I,ll have to check it out in daylight since its pitch dark and 02:27 in the morning .. but this sure does bother me..
Here I thought I had it won and out go the lights..UGH.

I,ll let you know asap what I find out..

You mention a ground? on the tear?

Classic Finn

by **Nitetimes** » Wed Oct 03, 2007 7:22 pm

It might be as simple as the fuse being too small. I have had that problem with quite a few vehicles in the past few years. A lot of the have 7.5 amp fuses and that's not enough when you add the extra lights from the trailer.
First disconnect the trailer plug, put in a new fuse and make sure the car lights are alright. If that checks out ok plug the lights back in replace the fuse with a 10 amp one and turn on the lights, if it doesn't blow again then that's your problem. If it does you might want to check for a short in the triler light wiring.

by **BrwBier** » Wed Oct 03, 2007 7:41 pm

If you have lighting problems I would go to the third thread down called checking trailer lights...a tutorial, this will take you to a post by Mad Jack, follow the link he gives. Then follow that to the sixth post down by tear les. It is the best description of testing lights I have seen, and I have been a mechanic for 25 years.
Brwbier

by **Classic Finn** » Thu Oct 04, 2007 2:05 am

Nitetimes wrote:It might be as simple as the fuse being too small. I have had that problem with quite a few vehicles in the past few years. A lot of the have 7.5 amp fuses and that's not enough when you add the extra lights from the trailer.
First disconnect the trailer plug, put in a new fuse and make sure the car lights are alright. If that checks out ok plug the lights back in replace the fuse with a 10 amp one and turn on the lights, if it doesn't blow again then that's your problem. If it does you might want to check for a short in the triler light wiring.

Hi Rich and others.

I just came in from the car and I found out by locating the fuse.. which is hooked to the back left light on the car. and at the same time it also lights up the dash... and I replaced that fuse which is not the clear kind as shown above but square and similar and there is a small filament or wire on the side in the fuse .. it was cracked.. small at it was and I replaced it with a new one..

Bingo its working again.. however its a 5 amp.. it wont do harm if I change it to a 10 amp will it?

All lights are working again at the moment.. on the tear as well.

Thank You Everyone

Heikki

by **Classic Finn** » Thu Oct 04, 2007 8:01 am

All is well so far.. I did go and switch that 5 amp fuse to a 10.. and so far so good..lights are all working now..All I can say is :phew:

and

Classic Finn :thumbsup:

by **Nitetimes** » Thu Oct 04, 2007 4:30 pm

Glad to hear it was just something simple.
Ten amp shouldn't be a problem. I 'd say there was just too much draw for the 5 amp fuse when you connected the trailer lights.
I usually put 15 amp fuses in them but if 10 will work ok just leave it.

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