solid v/s sandwich question.

[toypusher]

Steve,

Just as a quick 'guessitmate' you can just figure the amount it would take to go around the parameter. Then figure how many places you will need extra support for bulkheads, etc and add the vertical measurement for each area and you should be very close to what you need.

Remember that when figuring cost that it will be cheaper to buy wider materials and rip them to the width that you need. Figure you total linear feet that is needed and then you can price it in the demensioned 1x or price to buy wider 1x and rip it down to the demensions you need.

Just my opinion and advise.

[jeffwholmes]

SteveH I’m with you, and that was my main reason for posting my question about the difference in construction technique.

I just couldn’t figure the board feet of the 1” framing required for the sandwiched type build, and the resulting weight. Might be just a learning curve for myself as I’m not used to this type of wood working, construction witch ever it is considered. I am while not needed often, able to figure the materials needed to build a shop, frame a house or that sort of build.
I just can’t get my head around figuring the amount of 1” framing required for my sandwiched walls as well as the cost and weight difference of the two. So after the info I have got from you folks, I am going to build with ¾ material it will most likely be of birch.
I was at Lowe’s last night picking up a range hood and looked at the birch, still trying to decide between birch and oak. It was raining or I would have just had to decide then and brought my lumber home.

Man I hate being indecisive.

Thanks to all of you for your replies and the information.

Jeff.

[Steve Frederick]

Steve,

OK, if I had an idea of how many board feet of 1X is used in the typical built up wall of, oh say 4 X 10', I could figure the rest. That basically is my unknown. Would you happen to know that? The plywood I can figure, and the insulation is easy to figure also. The 1X is the most difficult to figure, and I suspect, the most cost.

4, 1 by 4 by 10, pine, 1, 1 by 3 by 8 hardwood/side, Some get ripped for verticals, the rest will build the perimeter. Hardwood where hinges go.
My framing is minimal, say, 24"o/c.

[asianflava]

Yes, more expensive, and for most, more labor intensive.
I think it's viable for anyone, if patience and time are there. The potential for insulation, wiring, and flexibility in wood choice all a plus.
BTW, I don't think you were being argumentative.
I wouldn't have responded if that were so.

Labor intensive, yes
Difficult, no

It's like doing a lot of busy work; cutting, fitting, joining all the wall studs.

[jeffwholmes]

Ok so we went to Lowe’s today and picked up some materials. While we were there the Boss changed my mind, she decided she liked the grain of luan better.

So I will be building with luan 1” by’s and ¾ foam insulation.

Jeff.

[jeffwholmes]

Steve Frederic, you say that you use 4 pine (1”x4”x10’) and 1 hardwood (1”x3”x8’).

Is that per side?

Thanks Jeff.

[Steve Frederick]

Steve Frederic, you say that you use 4 pine (1”x4”x10’) and 1 hardwood (1”x3”x8’).

Is that per side?

Thanks Jeff.

Yup! For the hinge bearing framing, just rip to 1-1/2, or you could just by 1-by 2's. I believe that hard wood will hold screws better.
Have fun!

[jeffwholmes]

Ok Steve thanks.

Jeff.

[SteveH]

Steve,

A little off subject here, but related to your screws in the hardwood....a tip from model airplane building. We sometimes need to put screws into wood in high stress areas that would normally just rip the screws out of the wood, especially using balsa wood. What we do to stop the problem is, drill the hole as normal, insert the screw as normal, then remove the screw and put a drop or two of thin CA glue in the hole. The glue will wick into the wood making it super hard. Then reinsert the screw and it will not come out of the wood. The glue hardens the wood to a strength that is many times stronger than the wood without the glue. We even cut normal threads in wood using this same procedure and use bolts without stripping the threads.

I used this procedure on all of the screw holes in my teardrop around the door hinge.

[Steve Frederick]

Steve,

A little off subject here, but related to your screws in the hardwood....a tip from model airplane building. We sometimes need to put screws into wood in high stress areas that would normally just rip the screws out of the wood, especially using balsa wood. What we do to stop the problem is, drill the hole as normal, insert the screw as normal, then remove the screw and put a drop or two of thin CA glue in the hole. The glue will wick into the wood making it super hard. Then reinsert the screw and it will not come out of the wood. The glue hardens the wood to a strength that is many times stronger than the wood without the glue. We even cut normal threads in wood using this same procedure and use bolts without stripping the threads.

I used this procedure on all of the screw holes in my teardrop around the door hinge.

Yeah, I've drilled a few planes into the turf! CA works wonders to reinforce wood. On the Tears, I've done that trick, but with a few drops of epoxy.

[jeffwholmes]

SteveH you said CA glue, how about Gorilla glue?

Jeff.

[SteveH]

Jeff,

No, only thin CA wicks into the wood and strengthens it so fast. Epoxy will work like Steve says, but it's very slow. Gorila glue is polyurethane, and is a good adhesive, but it doesn't go into the wood and strenthen it like CA or epoxy.