A few newbie questions (Please?)

[toypusher]

IraRat,

Have a look at this drawing of the profile to see what I mean.

[drawing no longer available]

Kerry

[exminnesotaboy]

Toypusher was right on for the points above.

I built the floor storage for storage, not for the bathroom option. I will pull my cubby with smaller cars, so stowing those rarely used items(basic tools, a tarp, some bungee's, extra set of wheel bearings, etc...) will help for space. This is completely optional, especially since you have a truck.

When I cut the trailer sides, it was the *first* time I had ever used an angle grinder and it came out just fine - I just went slow. As mentioned above, you can use a circular saw, jig saw, hacksaw(albeit with a lot of elbow grease!).

[IraRat]

Thanks, guys. So let me see if I have this all straight:

I'm not going to cut the chassis, and I'm going use the modified profile you supplied. (Thanks, Kerry.) I'm gonna mount the axle 36 inches from the rear. Yes, I have the lightweight chassis, but...

Your post says "this eliminates the need to cut the trailer at all, except as noted below."

So where do I still have to cut it? Even if I mount the axle above the springs?

Also, the reference to "still take 2 of the cross members and turn them sideways to strengthen the place that blah blah meets..."

First, both the illustrations look like they're facing the same way anyway. (This sideways thing is confusing me.) Second, where do they go? Do I sandwich the wooden crossmember with the metal ones?

THANKS!

[mikeschn]

I think he meant put the cross rails into the side rails, and not have a wooden rail at all. Something like this...



Mike...

[toypusher]

IraRat,

Sorry, I guess that was not very clear. I meant that you will not have to cut the trailer for length.

This "this eliminates the need to cut the trailer at all, except as noted below." should have said that you don't need to cut, but you still need to modify the chassis. The two center crossmembers are turned lengthwise with the outside members of the trailer and inserted into the channel of the side member. You then have to drill and bolt the crossmembers into the side members.

The wooden crossmember goes into the sidemembers and should be placed centered on the joint that the original front and back side members meet. Or in other words, where the trailer was intended to fold.


Hope that helpls clarrify it. If not just keep asking until it is crystal clear for you! We are here to help!

Kerry

[Georgeandpat]

1) Is there a real value to the floor hatch? My wife and I are VERY short (remember that I said "very"), and I can't imagine that extra couple of inches making a big difference when doing our business on a porta-potty. As a matter of fact, I really can't imagine DOING that businesss in there most of the time anyway. (Markham Park has great toilets.) I ask this now because this affects a modification on the chassis.

2) Is it really impossible to cut off the extra length parts off the chassis with a hacksaw, or should I DEFINITELY use an ang;e grinder? I figured I would clamp the pieces to my redwood picnic table, so I imagine the pieces will remian pretty stable and not shigt around. I guess I have a basic fear of that angle grinder, because if I screw up, there goes the chassis.

3) What kind of wood did you use for the cross-brace? The plans say Dry Douglas Fir. Also, if the actual called-for dimensions are 1 1/2 by 2 7/8, what's that called in the real world? Like I know a 2 by 4 measures less than that, so what's the deal here?

4) The notches??? Duh??? Inside Flanges??? What's a Flange? Do they mean the inside part of the side rails? (Bottom of page 17).

Am I notching the 4 side rails (2 each side) where they meet in the middle to accept the wood cross brace? I don't get this, because looking at the way I cut the wood brace, it would seem it would fit in there anyway. I wish I could see a photo of this somewhere to see what we're talking about, and how the heck to do it. (Anyone out there still reading this who can point me to a page?)

5) The illustration shows a part with the text "Notch to clear axle." Is this something I have to actually DO, or is this just a test to confuse me? My guess is that this may have to do with modifying the axle position for the tongue weight, which I don't have to do because I'll be hauling with a truck. If I'm right here, can I just ignore this, and follow the trailor instructions?

Ira,
1. I skipped the inside floor hatch. Seemed like a lot of work for a little space but maybe I'll feel differently when I start using the tear.
2. Your trailer frame is a little less "beefy" than the 1800 # frame. Still, I would think that using a hacksaw would be impractical. I was a little intimidated at the thought of using an angle grinder too but it was actually quite easy (almost fun).
3. I just used a common 2 x 4 cut to size.
4. I think someone answered this. Don't believe that your trailer has flanges.
5. Not familiar with your particular trailer. Since the axle is placed above the leaf springs, it could hit the mounting bracket when the teardrop hits a bump or dip in the road. Notching the bracket gives the axle room to move without hitting anything and I definitely had to do this on my trailer.
Hope some of this helps. George.

[IraRat]

Oy, let me see if I have this straight. (I'll get to you later, George. Thanks for replying.)

I have my wooden cross member in place. As you said, the measurements in the plans aren't correct, so I'm going to have to measure before ripping that piece. Althought the length of that wooden member should be per plans, right? 47 3/4.

Then I take the 2 metal crossmember that are SUPPOSED to go where that wooden thingy is, turn them so they run parallel to the side rails, and bolt them to the side rails, with carriage bolts?

If this is correct, don't they stick up because they're sitting on top of the wood at their centers, or they DON'T stick up because the wooden member is only 1 1/2 thick? Or is that the thickness I have to determine for myself to make it all flush?

Thanks for letting me ask again and again. I feel like I'm back in algebra class--and I wound up getting an F anyway.

[exminnesotaboy]

Althought the length of that wooden member should be per plans, right? 47 3/4.

I played on the side of caution and temporarily bolted my trailer together before I decided on the measurements for this piece. Not because I didn't trust the plans, but because I didn't trust the dimensions of those trailer pieces.

If I remember right, it was very close to the 47 3/4, but not exactly. this also helped me judge the exact height to rip it to so it would be flush with the trailer floor. The result was a VERY tight fit that will NEVER move under normal conditions.

[toypusher]

IraRat,

Have a look at this and see if it helps:

http://www.teardrops.us/userfiles/toypusher/HF%20frame%20mods%20copy.jpg

Kerry

[IraRat]

IraRat,

Have a look at this and see if it helps:

http://www.teardrops.us/userfiles/toypusher/HF%20frame%20mods%20copy.jpg

Kerry

HALLELUJAH! MAZEL TOV! THANK GOD! AND WHATEVER OTHER FAITH YOU ADHERE TO! (Any muslims here?)

But more importantly, thank YOU. (All of you.)

What I'm doing is taking two of the metal cross members and placing them INTO the channels of the side rails, parallel to those side rails. Then bolting the two together. (How many carriage bolts? Four each side okay?)

Yes? No? Or am I STILL an idiot?

And on my lighter capacity trailer, I DO/DO NOT have to notch these inserted metal cross members to accommodate the ends of the wood cross member.

Circle one, and I won't bother you until Monday. (No promises, but I'll try.)

[toypusher]

IraRat,

You should be able to use a few of the holes that were in the frame members already, but 4 or so in each (make sure you fasten through both the front and the back side rails. You should move the axle at the same time to avoid getting any of the bolts in your way to place the axle correctly. I used the bolts and nylox nuts that came with the trailer kit.

You DO NOT have to notch any of the crossmembers or side members. The plans state that due the fact that the heavier trailer has a return or lip if you want to call it that on the inside of both the top and bottom of the side members. You will just have to measure the open space in the sides after you move the crossmemers into the side members to be able to fit the new wood cross member that you have to make. Just remember - measure twice and cut once!!!

Kerry

[IraRat]

Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU!

I'm ready to rock and roll tomorrow!

I decided not to include the floor hatch, and can you see any issues in doing the chassis light wiring toward the end of construction? Others have told me no problem, especially since I can see myself cracking a few lenses during construction. (Plus, I don't mind getting on my back and under the trailer to give the South Florida Fire Ants a nice meal. They deserve it.)

Also, and I know that every state is different, but can I register this as a utility trailer NOW, even though it's going to eventually be a travel trailer?

(I told you that I would TRY not to bother you again until Monday.)

[toypusher]

IraRat,

I don't see any problem with waiting for the trailer wiring. But, and there always is a but (sometimes spelled butt), if you are putting the battery on the tongue and running the wiring to the galley area, then you would want to put it in conduit and that would be easier to put in now, before you put the deck on the trailer frame. You don't have to put the wires in it now, but I would recommend running the conduit and boxes that you need now while it is easy to get to the frame. The plans indicate that the deck and sidewalls were put on first, however as I mentioned, it would be alot easier now. You can use a electricians fish tape to pull the wires through the conduit later.

It probably is a good idea to leave the taillights and marker lights off during construction, even if you put the wiring in place now.

As always, there are lots of ways of doing everything on a teardrop.

Hope the build goes well and post some pictures along the way, especially if you run into problems and can take pictures of what is the problem to let folks know for sure what you are having problems with.

Kerry

[IraRat]

Thanks, Kerry. You were a lifesaver (like everyone else here).

I guess I can always get on my back and drill holes through some of the cross members of the floor/deck along one side of the trailer, and up and into the fore and aft sections of the interior, to have them there ready to run conduit later, when the time comes.

[mikeschn]

We've found, the best time to do ALL the wiring is before you insulate the roof and before you skin the inside of the hatch...





At this point you can pull the wires for all your lights, roof vent, tail lights, side marker lights, license plate holder, furnace, etc etc etc...

However, if you have some lights or marker lights that are mounted on the wall, you'll have to pull some wires, or conduit while you are building up your walls.

But you get the idea...

Mike...