120v wiring question

[nikwax]

I'm pulling the cable for my 120 volt circuit. Unfortunately I'm working with 12 gauge Romex solid wire and shallow outlet boxes, and the solid wire is too stiff to compress behind the fixtures. Hmm. Well, I could go over to West Marine and buy stranded Romex. Or I could monkey around with conduit and individual wires, but the conduit would have to be flexible (and I don't care for flexible metal conduit for this application).


Ideas?

[Micro469]

Deeper outlet boxes????

[Dooner]

I hope this will make since to you. I am just guessing at how you are doing this. I always leave my solid wires long. Make sure you peel off all the outer covering (white rubbery cover over all wires). cut your wires long enough that they will go all the way from bottom of the box to the top (maybe about 1/2" from top), back down to were the screw is (never use the holes in the rear), and then out to the screw. It is easier to push back the longer piece that is already bent, than to try to push back a shorter piece that you have to get to bend.
I hope I am making since to you. I know what I am talking about, but may not be explaining it clear enough.

Here is a rough example of what I am trying to say.

[nikwax]

that's very clear, and the drawing on the left looks like the situation that I'm in. I'll try your solution tomorrow, thanks!

[jeep_bluetj]

The long wire thing is definitely the way to make getting the device into the box easier.

Another option for you is 14guage romex. If you are using 15A breakers, 14g is fine. It's much much much easier to bend than the 12g.

[bobhenry]

I'm pulling the cable for my 120 volt circuit. Unfortunately I'm working with 12 gauge Romex solid wire and shallow outlet boxes, and the solid wire is too stiff to compress behind the fixtures. Hmm. Well, I could go over to West Marine and buy stranded Romex. Or I could monkey around with conduit and individual wires, but the conduit would have to be flexible (and I don't care for flexible metal conduit for this application).


Ideas?

There are several of us that simply used 3 strand extention cord this provides a hot , a neutral and an insulated ground. This material would be much more flexible. When I ran mine I drilled a 3/8 hold in the plastic half depth boxes where ever they were needed. With the holidays here extention cords for outdoor lighting are at giveaway prices that are even cheaper than bulk spool insulated extention cord wire.

[SteveH]

Stranded wire is the only way to go for all circuits in a teardrop, but that is just my opinion.

[nikwax]

There are several of us that simply used 3 strand extention cord this provides a hot , a neutral and an insulated ground. This material would be much more flexible. When I ran mine I drilled a 3/8 hold in the plastic half depth boxes where ever they were needed. With the holidays here extention cords for outdoor lighting are at giveaway prices that are even cheaper than bulk spool insulated extention cord wire.

Before my original post I was thinking "why do we use Romex anyway?" I assume for fire containment issues (a short could cause the wire to heat to the point of setting the jacket on fire, the Romex jacket contains this). Comments? Would the extension cord's jacket provide the same containment as a Romex jacket does?

[nikwax]

Deeper outlet boxes????

that involves installing deeper walls

[depatty]

Before my original post I was thinking "why do we use Romex anyway?" I assume for fire containment issues (a short could cause the wire to heat to the point of setting the jacket on fire, the Romex jacket contains this). Comments? Would the extension cord's jacket provide the same containment as a Romex jacket does?

If you got a short that is heating the wire to the point that it will catch fire then you have got too big a breaker/fuse. A loose connection with a load on it getting smoking hot or bare wires sparking but not completely shorted to where they will trip the breaker are more likely to cause a fire.

I can see no problem with using extension cord as long as the wire itself is of sufficient gauge to carry the load.

In my TTT I went WAY overboard and used exposed metal conduit and surface mount boxes with solid 12 and 14 gauge wire inside but won't go that route again. In my upcoming teardrop I plan to use conduit inside the walls just to be able to replace any wiring that may fail (and to not have to remember where the wire is when putting screws in), but will most likely use either 14 gauge stranded (as I have several rolls that I got for hauling off) or cut up extension cords for the wiring.

HTH
dave

[nikwax]

so is the real advantage of Romex in home building that it is cheaper and easier to handle than other methods? Nothing to do with safety?

[Miriam C.]

so is the real advantage of Romex in home building that it is cheaper and easier to handle than other methods? Nothing to do with safety?

Romex is required by code for house wiring. NEC

What ever you use to to wire your trailer make sure it has a ground wire. You can get outdoor rated portable cords, one is SJO rated which is rated at 300 volt and get 14-3. As a rule of thumb, it is 15amp rated and will be grounded. SO is rated at 600 volts and 14-3 and it will still be 15amp (as a rule of thumb). So anything that is 14-3 will work for 15 amp rated breakers depending on your distance run.

I used solid in my TD cause I had it. Made the strands longer and ran them beside the outlets instead of behind. Just took some push and shove.

You can also strip back the outer sheathing wires longer so you are only dealing with the single wire when bending. Leave extra in case you have to repair.

The best advantage Romex has is it is easier if you are using stab in fixtures.

[madjack]

ROMEX, has no safety value over stranded wire...inna a TD or other high vibration enviorment, it may be just the opposite...we bought a large roll of 4 conductor 14 ga trailer light wire and split it for 12v useage and used appliance or extension cords for 120v applications..........
madjack

[nikwax]

ROMEX, has no safety value over stranded wire...inna a TD or other high vibration enviorment, it may be just the opposite...we bought a large roll of 4 conductor 14 ga trailer light wire and split it for 12v useage and used appliance or extension cords for 120v applications..........
madjack

you da man!

[kartvines]

I also just use a Extension cord, ran it is rubber conduit, and it work great, having the outer sleeve is it own protection and it was much easier than running conduit.