Lightweight Frame building

[BufordT]

Here's the new bolt together trailer...

I've got the trailing arms facing to the rear...

Also flipped it over so you can see the underside!!!





Mike...

Along time ago I had a pic of an original Benroy type trailer. The angle was flat on top like the above pic's. The Benroy used angle iron for all there trailers and most if not all are still on the road.
Someone got the idea that you needed to build a trailer so heavy to carry around 600 lbs and in my opion have really messed up these trailers for the rest of us.
My mini-hopper was built on a harbor freight trailer the 1800 lb one and I'm read alot about people who don't like these trailers. I for one think the are overkill for the teardrops.

Mike has the correct idea with these pic's. Get the angle iron. Turn it upside down so the flat is on the top. and bolt it together.

Now Mike stretch out the tongue so that it goes the whole length and do away with the "A" to support the angel. Cut the angles where the tongue goes on all the supports and bolt to the flat angle and you have yourself a trailer for a teardrop. All bolted together and you make it yourself.

Do a drawing for me on that please.

Bufordt

[mikeschn]

Incidently, the cyan colored stuff is 2x2x3/16 square tubing. The pink stuff is 2x2 angle iron. I know for sure that the 3/16" angle will work. Not sure about the 1/8" stuff. What do you guys think?

Mike...

[toypusher]

Mike,

Any idea what the weight on that would be. Let's say a 5X9 or 5X10? My HF lightweight frame (bare) is about 216 lbs and 260 with 1/2 inch plywood and a swingup tongue jack.

Kerry

[mikeschn]

Since I don't know the weight of the axle or wheels, I took those off. As shown, the angle is 3/16" thick. The weight, as shown, is 177 pounds. Oh yes, that's a 4x8 trailer!



Mike...

[toypusher]

Thanks Mike

Kerry

[JunkMan]

Mike,

My dad built a utility trailer very similar to your drawing, and used it for several years without any trouble. He never had it welded, just checked the bolts every once in a while to make sure they didn't come loose. I don't think they ever did. He gave it to my son, and my son towed it around for a few years, and never had any trouble with it either.

While I plan to weld mine since I have the equipment and ability, and hate drilling holes , I would think a bolted angle iron frame would work fine. Just make sure you use grade 5 bolts and nylock nuts so it won't loosen up.

Everyone seems to think the frame needs to be a lot stronger than it really needs to be. I have a 1960's Apache pop up, and the frame on it is basically an X bolted to the 3/4 plywood floor, with the springs mounted to the corners of the X and the tongue running up the center. It has lasted this long without any problems, and I still use it ocasionally as a utility trailer, and plan to re-build it as a kayak/canoe trailer this summer. I'll try to flip it over and take a picture of it later today.

[toypusher]

JunkMan and Mike,

What type of axle would you use? Do you think that a straight axle with leaf springs would be OK? Or would that put too much stress on the frame? I can get a straight axle with 5x4 bolt pattern at the local Tractor Supply store for about $100.00. I don't know what the torsion axles cost there, but I know they have them too!

Kerry

[mikeschn]

I have a preference to the torsion axles.

With spring axles, the trailer bounces around too much. To settle that down I would have to put shocks on it, similar to what Larry did on the Outback.

The torsion axle gives me everything I am looking for, in a nice compact package.

But then again, if you're the kind of person that likes to tinker with welding brackets, removing leafs from springs, and all that kind of stuff, then you might as well pick up the $100 axle at the supply store.

Mike...

P.S. As for stress on the frame, once you have your frame "properly bolted to the trailer, the stress should be distributed thru the body.

[toypusher]

Mike,

Thanks! I am just looking forward to my next tear. I really want to go with a 5X9 for the next try. I also want to try to keep the cost down as much as I can and still have a quality trailer with everything that I need.

Kerry

[toypusher]

Mike,

One more question. How far from the back would you put the axle if it were a 5'x9' trailer?

Kerry

[JunkMan]

Kerry,

I plan to use a torsional axel. I have built several trailers over the years, mostly for hauling cars or motorcycles and utility trailers. I have always used spring axels on that type of trailer, but think they would ride too rough for a TD. I think the torsional axel will also let the TD sit lower, which is what I want, since the VW Beetle that I plan to pull it with sits very low.

I was quoted about $155 for a 900 pound torsional axel by Redeneck trailers.

[norm perkiss]

Mike,
Your rendering shows the axle bolted?
Will bolts be enough?
Would they be grade 5?
The axle mounts come pre-drilled, just locate the axle on the frame and attach with some heavy duty bolts?
Would you need to add some sort of solid spacer in the square tube so the bolts don't compress the tube?
I'd like to try using the angle frame on the next tear. I'm not a metal worker or welder so I have little experience to draw on.
Thanks,
Norm

[toypusher]

Jeff,

Height is not an issue with me, I tow with a 4x4 Tacoma! But the smoother ride could save the body alot of unnecessary wear and tear. Thanks for reminding me about the ride.

Kerry

[mikeschn]

Mike,

One more question. How far from the back would you put the axle if it were a 5'x9' trailer?

Kerry

I would use Rik & Andrew's spreadsheet to figure out where I wanted the axle.

I prefer this one due to it's simplicity...

http://www.mikenchell.com/images/tongue-weight.xls

Mike...

[mikeschn]

The Dexter Axle comes with two large bolts on each side. I'll go outside tonight and see what size they are.

As for compressing the tube, it's 3/16" wall tube. That's pretty hard to compress. The option is to have the axle brackets welded to the tube, and bolt the axle to the brackets...

Mike...

Mike,
Your rendering shows the axle bolted?
Will bolts be enough?
Would they be grade 5?
The axle mounts come pre-drilled, just locate the axle on the frame and attach with some heavy duty bolts?
Would you need to add some sort of solid spacer in the square tube so the bolts don't compress the tube?
I'd like to try using the angle frame on the next tear. I'm not a metal worker or welder so I have little experience to draw on.
Thanks,
Norm