Frame... does this look right?

[Shrug53]

Ok I did this sketch while sitting at Burger King this morning (always bring a pencil, my graph pad, and a protractor). I reworked the A-frame to 50º (since couplers are either for straight 2x2 or a 50º angle).
The main frame will be 4'x8' (with a coupe of 6.5' crossbars) and the trailer body will curve up at the front, but still have an overhange of 15"
So does this look right or should I ad a little more length to the tongue?

[tdthinker]

Looks about right

[mikeschn]

You've not left yourself much room between the body and the hitch ball.

When you back up you risk hitting the body with the tow vehicle when you turn. I would definitely try to increase the distance, and then as long as you are making drawings, make a top view of the tow vehicle and the travel trailer, and articulate it to see if it clears. Heck, you've got the time, so why not!!!

Mike...

[Shrug53]

Well let me see. I could move the a-frame forward 6" and then if you figure another 3" for the coupler and another 3" for the hitch from the tow vehicle that would give me a total of 33" from the body to the back of my car. Nearly three feet, would that be enough? That would mean I could get the tow vehicle and the trailer at a 50 degree angle before they hit. Honestly if I get things that tight, I am probably screwed anyway because I have never been really good at handling a trailer. You should have seen me trying to back the U-haul into a gas station with a car tailer on the back with my chevy on it! That was a minor miracle!

[twc3]

If your tow vehicle is an SUV or a Mini-Van then you will want at least 3' if not more due to the Rear Door travel.



33 1/2" from bumper hitch to T.D. not as much as I want. I will eventually replace the tongue with a longer section.

If I have the trailer attached and the truck is slightly turned I can not open the rear hatch without hitting the trailer. I either have to move the hole rig, unhook the trailer or use the window instead of the back door.

[tdthinker]

long=good, short=bad, just dont get to long

[Shrug53]

No worries there. It is going behind a 53 Chevy Sedan. Though I may yet make an even longer tongue. I need to check my RV books to see what the suggested turning radius should be as a minumum. I may also move the body back on the frame and build a small tongue box to fit the front curve.

[mikeschn]

You could also run a straight tube down the middle and make it as long as you want!!!

Mike...

[Shrug53]

I meant to ask aout that. Is there any benefit to an a-frame over a straight tube? If I ran a tube from the front bar of the trailer just back to the scond one I tshould be pretty solid right? And also cut some weight off as well?

[mikeschn]

There are only 2 benefits that I can see with a 50* tongue.

1) It's easy to put on a tongue chest
2) You can use the center mount tongue jack (which I prefer)

Since you don't have a tongue chest planned...

and if you don't care about the style of tongue jack, then by all means just use a straight tube.

Wasn't that easy?

Mike...

[Shrug53]

The straight tube sure would make things easier. Should that be heavier than the rest of the frame? I am planning on using 11ga. 2x2 tube steel. Should I use a heavier gauge on the bar?

[mikeschn]

You might try something like 2x2x3/16" tube. Remember all the weight of that monster you are designing is going to be on it!

Mike...

[tdthinker]

use a center tube with the side braces, it seems a little more trust worthy for some reason