First frame build

[Sting25]

Hello I am planning out my trailer fram. it will be used for some mild 4x4 trails and general camping I am dong my best to not over build it. I want to put the frame together maybe next week.

so far I know
1. I want to build the trailer on top of the frame to protect it.
2. I am going to run 33" tires that are the same as my Jeep
3. 5x10 frame
4. Use 2x2 16 gauge square for the frame and maybe 3x3 3/16ths for the tongue.

I will mig weld the whole thing and am planning on using the tutorial in the sticky as a build guide.

Thoughts please?

[Sting25]

hmmm now thinking about 2x3 for the outside of it...
javascript:emoticon(':thinking:')
Thinking

[angib]

hmmm now thinking about 2x3 for the outside of it...

I would say 2x3 instead of 2x2 is unnecessary but it's not a huge weight penalty - 2x3 is 28% heavier than 2x2, so the extra weight should be under 30lb.

Bigger sections, like 2x3 instead of 2x2, are always a more weight-efficient idea than thicker sections - for example, 2x2x3/16 is both heavier and weaker than 2x3x1/8.

3x3x3/16 sounds a bit over the top too. I had to calculate its strength because I've never had looked at that size before! By the Aussie rules, it would allow a 73" long (single) tongue on a 1500lb trailer. If you take my view that you can go twice the Aussie rules for a teardrop, that allows a 12 foot long tongue!

I think 3x3x1/8 is as big as you could need to go - that allows you a 53" tongue on a 1500lb trailer to the full Aussie rules, or nearly 9 feet if you go twice the rule. Even for off-roading, I reckon that ought to be enough and it would save you maybe 20lb (plus some $).

Andrew

[bdosborn]

I decided to get fancy and miter my corners instead of using a butt joint like it describes in the frame tutorial. This was my first welding project and I found out that mitered corners are *much* harder to weld then butt joints. All future frames (if any) will be butt welded and gusseted!

Bruce

[Sting25]

I am trying to decide on final dimensions...

I am a big guy and have a wife and large dog. I have been reading that many people wish they had made a 5ft wide trailer. This was my original intension but after doing some measuring.

Queen sized mattress = 5ft. so trailer needs to be 5'4" wide? MAYBE I can find 5ft wide thin plywood for the roof but bigger than that?

Also at ft that puts the trailer stance with the wheels on much wider than the jeep is this an issue? jeep is just about 63" wide (measured from the outside of the tires).

I wanted to run the same tire wheel combo as the jeep but. the rims have 4" of back spacing, will this mess me up?


I am hoping to get metal this week. have the base frame built by Monday.


thank you for your thoughts.

[Sting25]

I am actually going to miter the corners. this will allow me to use the frame as an air tank.

As an added bonus I can regulate air pressure and will know if any of my welds fail. I mitered the corner welds on my bed I welded not the easiest but I think it will work. I am great at grinding!

I decided to get fancy and miter my corners instead of using a butt joint like it describes in the frame tutorial. This was my first welding project and I found out that mitered corners are *much* harder to weld then butt joints. All future frames (if any) will be butt welded and gusseted!

Bruce

[madjack]

Chris, most folks go only 5' wide because if you go over, well of course then over 5' wide material is just not available and you start having a waste issue...5" wide ply is available with a lot of looking but it is pricey...if you use AL for the roof, you will havvta buy 102" wide AL from a truck-trailer repair shop...we build 5 wide with 3/4" walls and this gives us a 58" wide bed...only a couple of incehs narrower than a true Quenn sized bed, which is just fine for myself(6'2), my wife(aka the Poor Girll) and our 2 mutant chihuahua's...........
madjack

[Sting25]

OK that makes sense...

3/4 inch walls = no insulation?
you let the wheels stay outside the 5ft?

for me that would mean...
5ft + 2" + 12.5 inches (tire width) + some plus a few for the backspaced wheels...

So thats somewhere around 76-77" wide outside tire to tire....

Maybe I need to rethink the 4ft width and simplify once again.

I am 6'3 wife is short and the dog id huge 120lbs....Good thing we like each other..

Chris, most folks go only 5' wide because if you go over, well of course then over 5' wide material is just not available and you start having a waste issue...5" wide ply is available with a lot of looking but it is pricey...if you use AL for the roof, you will havvta buy 102" wide AL from a truck-trailer repair shop...we build 5 wide with 3/4" walls and this gives us a 58" wide bed...only a couple of incehs narrower than a true Quenn sized bed, which is just fine for myself(6'2), my wife(aka the Poor Girll) and our 2 mutant chihuahua's...........
madjack

[madjack]

...yep, 3/4" walls, no insulation...heating a tear is not a problem, unless you are doing some serious winter camping...if power is available, a 120vac, ceramic type heater is more than sufficient or a 12v mattress warmer if 120vac is not available...Definitely, stick with the 5' wide...you, the wife and doggie will MUCH happier...I believe that our hub to hub measurement was 72"s, with a 205-70-15 tire and 0 offset on the wheels(Dexter TorqFlex axle) and gives 2"s of clearance between tire and camper side walls...if you call Dexter and tell them exactly what you are doing, they will spec an axle for you and keep in mind, legally, anything over 80"s wide, overall, requires additional marker lighting
madjack

[Nitetimes]

...I believe that our hub to hub measurement was 72"s, with a 205-70-15 tire and 0 offset on the wheels(Dexter TorqFlex axle) and gives 2"s of clearance between tire and camper side walls...
madjack

I only got a little trailer building experience but my numbers say you were closer to 78-80" at the outside of the fenders....unless you got some seriously skinny tires on there!!


Oooops....read that wrong...my bad.

[asianflava]

...I believe that our hub to hub measurement was 72"s, with a 205-70-15 tire and 0 offset on the wheels(Dexter TorqFlex axle) and gives 2"s of clearance between tire and camper side walls...
madjack

I only got a little trailer building experience but my numbers say you were closer to 78-80" at the outside of the fenders....unless you got some seriously skinny tires on there!!


Oooops....read that wrong...my bad.

Sounds right, I built with 60in inside dimension. I ordered a 74in axle hub to hub.

[angib]

I wanted to run the same tire wheel combo as the jeep but. the rims have 4" of back spacing, will this mess me up?

As well as getting the wheel position right with heavily offset wheels, you also need to make sure that they will fit on a torsion axle, if that's what you use.

This diagram, looking down on a cutaway wheel, shows the possible (not certain) problem with Jeep wheels:



Obviously a leaf-sprung axle would get you round that problem.

Andrew

[bdosborn]

Doesn't Dexter have different size spindles for situations like this? I.E. a longer spindle?

Bruce

[Sting25]

Oh my I am getting confused....

I got the 10x5 box part with 3/4" sides...

I need to read some on axle types. I am not familiar with rubber suspensions like the dexter.

At this point I am going to use
2x2 14 gauge for the outside frame 2 extra cross members and 2x3 probably 3/16ths I think thats all they have off the shelf at the surplus store) for the tongue and angled tongue supports.

some 1/4" gusseting in strategic places.

off to read about axles.

[asianflava]

Doesn't Dexter have different size spindles for situations like this? I.E. a longer spindle?

Bruce

I think the option is for a shorter spindle.