All 12v or all 120v?

[WebFoot]

Im in the initial stages of my tear build up.
Please pardon me is this has been covered before..seems Ive overloaded my brain with build info from this board
I have a mix of items I want/need to install in my tear, some run on 12V, others run on 120V (like my mini microwave)...I understand the inverter/convertor issues, my question is: Is it easier for most of you to wire your TD for only one or the other and then adapt for the few items running the other voltage source...or do many of you wire in for both 12v & 120V?
Need some guidance & advice. Thanks in Advance!
WebFoot

[Ken A Hood]

http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=11272

Here's a good starting point

[asianflava]

Mine is 12V for the most part, it also has 120V. When there is no electricity available, the 12V runs the vent fan, lights, power points (the essentials). When I can hook up, the microwave and airconditioner work and it the battery charger comes online.

I have it wired so that the microwave can run off an inverter, but it isn't big enough. It's OK because I use the microwave less than I thought I would.

[Sam I am]

WebFoot, I wired mine for 12v for interior lighting, cooling fans, etc. During construction, I decided to add two 110v outlets on the galley bulkhead. One faces the galley, and one faces the cabin. They're fed through a power strip under the galley counter, which serves as a breaker and main switch. We camped twice at sites with 110v, and used the inside outlet for a space heater, which kept us toasty warm! I'm glad I put the 110v in it! It was easy to do since I didn't have to run two sets of wires through the whole cabin.
Sam

[bobhenry]

I wired for both and altered the lighting fixtures by adding a 12 volt bulb and the necessary extra 2 wires to run it. Both porch lights and both (his and hers) inside fixtures.





The yellow and green wires were added for 12 volt !

I gutted a $5 keosene lantern I got at Menard's hardware and put a small 120 volt fixture in it ( Headlight out of a junk sweeper) I then add a 12 volt halogen in the top. The grey box in the pic is both switches the toggle is 120 and the rotary is 12 v just so you can tell them apart they are rated for either voltage.

[WebFoot]

Thansk guys, Im learning more each time I come back here!!
Ken, thanks for the link, very helpful!
Sam, awesome idea with the power strip..too easy and one of those "why didnt I think of that" moments!
Webfoot

[Gerdo]

Everything in my TD is 12 volt except for the A/C. I run everything off a Deep Cycle battery that is wired to but isolated from my tow vehicle for charging. The only 120v is right above the inlet. This kept the ac run short and easy. This is where my ac inlet is, and has one fused powerstrip wired directly to it.


If your only 120v power requirements are in the galley then I would locate the inlet close to the galley and run a couple of outlets.

[mikeschn]

The Generic ET is mainly electric, with a couple battery powered lanterns if we end up rustic.

The Optimized Winter Warrior is going to be all 12V, with a power supply to feed 12V into the system from an electric source.

[MrBuzz]

It has been really handy for me to have both 110v and 12v on the TD. On mine I kept both circuits separate...the only place they meet is through the battery tender.
I use 12v for interior lights, reading lights, galley light, porch lights and a couple of 12v power outlets.
I rarely use the 110v side except to occasionally charge the battery.
On mine the 110v wiring is very minimal...I bought a power inlet assembly from a local RV store, it is mounted through the TD body right behind the box that mounts the rear interior 110v outlet in this photo:


From there a short section of Nomex wire runs through the rear body to the galley and up to the top shelf where it powers the 110v outlet for the galley. That section of 110v is also connected to a switch that runs 110v to the battery tender that is mounted next to it. The 12v output from the batter tender runs over to the fuse box that is on the right side of that shelf in this photo:



It's simple, easy to do...but works very well. I don't use a lot of power, last season I barely ever charged the battery and only plugged in to 110v to run a small heater when the temps dipped.
The only thing I plan to change this year is to add an invertor so I can charge phones/computer/MP3 players when I don't have 110v access.

[sdtripper2]

Webfoot:

With small trailers the word options comes to mind. Having both 120V
and 12V allows you in the formulation stage with little cost of the wire to
build in options for boon-docking or hookup camping. Maybe sometime you
will figure that the cost of a hookuP camp site vs. a none hookuP camp site
isn't worth the money.

At least consider running braided wire in case you change your mind in the
future.

Now stretching out to future situations in your life. You may choose like so
many here that making a second trailer is your desire and selling the first
will make that possible. Well having both electrical options gives you an
enhanced chance of a sale of your first build. Many people like having both
electrical options.

You can make the 120V AC option as entailed as you wish. There are many
like the links below that show a minimalist approach to inlet and so on for AC & DC.

Keep on asking and the answers will flow your way.

Here are some more links that might help you decide ~

Simple electrical component systems and setups
http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=3267
http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=2224

Fuse panel vs direct wire pro's and con's
http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=10913

Fuse box pics & wiring
http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?p=11309 (Best show of strips~ )key buy
http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=1270

[brian_bp]

A simple approach, common in any type of RV is:
- everything you might want to run when no AC outlet (shore power) is available is 12V DC
- the stuff you would run only when shore power is available, because it is too power-hungry to be practical on battery anyway, is 120V AC (the air conditioner and microwave are typical examples)
- AC wiring and outlets are installed - with no generator or inverter to supply them when away from shore power - for whatever household appliances might be brought along
- since you have AC wiring anyway, put in some sort of battery charger or AC-to-DC converter so you don't have to worry about running out of battery charge when shore power is available

This works because it turns out the that stuff which needs to be 12V DC (largely lighting and vent fans) is readily available in that form, and the stuff which you can't readily get in 12V DC doesn't need to be (microwave, etc).

(edit note: just a spelling fix)

[WebFoot]

Thanks guys for all the replies.
I like the 120v power strip idea, that way I could at worst case, run a small extension cord from the strip to operate anything needing 120v that I might happen to be carrying and its very simple.
I'll wire for both ystems, but keep the trailer itself running on 12v which I am more familiar with. Awesome help guys,
thanks again!
Webfoot

[starleen2]

Might I add a GFI power strip for added protection (120 v)?? For our weekender, we used 4 receptacle box with 15 amp breaker to make wiring simple and replaceable if necessary

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=145271-33536-C664502001&lpage=none

[Nic]

I have my tear on all 120. With a couple of back up leds that run on 4 AAs each. But after a year of camping with my tear today im putting in 12v lites and plan to put in a cig power plug for chargers and things.
For me the 120 has worked out well. I did it the easy way. I have a power strip that plugs into a HF inverter. When i have power hook-ups i un-plug the power strip from the inverter and plug into the hook-ups. BUT.... most of the time in Ca. you dont have hook-ups. ANd 120 lites can sure run a batt down in a hurry. Not counting a TV being on.
So im going to start over. Im going power everything from my batt and have a cig plug for the inveter to plug into to run my 120 items and im going to keep all my lites on 12v to save batt power. Im still going to keep the good old power strip near by though for if i ever NEED to plug into power.
Just my thoughts on what i have been dealing with.

[satch]

I'm wired for both,Since I camp where there is shore power, plus I have a microwave and refer.( this makes the lady happy). All the lights are on 12v, plus the stereo and roof fan. I like the flexablity.