The R/C Man wrote::o Those screws are pricey..... Looks good though. Did you put some kind of sealer on the bottom to protect it from the elements?
Insulation.... It might not be as cold in CA but it gets pretty cold here in WA at night. Since we like to camp most of the year we need the insulation. I guess you could always put the insulation in between the frame rails. But in my case I need to be able to remove the whole camper shell therefore an additional frame of some kind is required. I guess I could go thinner with framing. Of course that would mean thinner insulation and less R value.... Hmmmm.....
For your wall framing, how did you bend the wood? I thought about soaking it in water for a day or two. My plan was to put the wood inside a piece of PVC fill it with water and cap the ends...... This should work right?
Dean in Eureka, CA wrote:Kevin,
Steam bending is fun and easy,but you gotta be setup for it (Which is pretty easy for shorter lentghs), work fast with your clamps and be careful. (Steam burns are severe) It is a bit time consuming, because you have to clamp the wood into place and let it dry for a period of time, then glue your laminations and clamp them in place a second time. I don't think you would need to even steam bend most profiles if you're laminating strips together, well...maybe only the rear bottom radius on a Modernistic from what I've seen. (I'm basing that guestimation from comparing the radius of steam bent canoe stems to the radius of a trailer profile)
Hey... do you remember when you were showing me parts of your old hatch from the original Thims and we were looking at the ribs that were previously cut from a piece of lumber? Remember how that one rib just fell apart and split with the grain? I'd strongly recommend using plywood on those ribs for your hatch instead of pieced together lumber...
The R/C Man wrote::o
Insulation.... It might not be as cold in CA but it gets pretty cold here in WA at night.
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