Restoration advice needed. - Not teardrop but Tow Vehicle

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Restoration advice needed. - Not teardrop but Tow Vehicle

Postby Classic Finn » Mon Feb 11, 2008 11:37 am

Im doing somthing to keep me occupied on some small things and thought Id clean up and redo the grill for our truck.

Its dull, and on the inside there is surface rust.. the grill is in driveable condition but not show quality.

So to do somthing of interest I thought to do this for now.

But where should I start.. :thinking: :thinking: There is surface rust on the back but nowhere is it rotted through. And there is a hole in the left side of the grill, see 2nd photo, lower side, should that be welded or brazed or? - also new grommets are needed..

What do I use as a tool and as a cleaner or rust remover and such would be of great help.. The back will not be seen but thought to clean it and maybe paint it or? Suggestions?

Here are some pics:

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Postby 48Rob » Mon Feb 11, 2008 12:53 pm

Hi,

Were it mine...

I'd tape off all the chrome (two layers) and media blast all that isn't chrome.
Then paint all exposed areas before using a buffing wheel to polish the rest.

I can't see "the hole" but believe I'd leave it alone until such time you are prepared to have the piece rechromed.

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Postby Classic Finn » Mon Feb 11, 2008 1:25 pm

48Rob wrote:Hi,

Were it mine...

I'd tape off all the chrome (two layers) and media blast all that isn't chrome.
Then paint all exposed areas before using a buffing wheel to polish the rest.

I can't see "the hole" but believe I'd leave it alone until such time you are prepared to have the piece rechromed.

Rob


How did I guess our very own hobbyist Rob would reply..all right..thanks Rob..I,ll get a photo of the hole..

Thank You Rob
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Postby toypusher » Mon Feb 11, 2008 2:25 pm

Heiki,

How about a toothbrush and some baking soda?? :D

Seriously, I have no Idea, but wanted to say that I see your photo program is working fine again!!
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Postby goldcoop » Mon Feb 11, 2008 3:49 pm

Heikki-

How 'bout scuffing it up, priming and painting it flat black & repaint the Chevy script in red?

http://www.metropartsmarket.com/autopai ... r-c24.html

Cheers,

Coop
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Postby Classic Finn » Mon Feb 11, 2008 4:25 pm

toypusher wrote:Heiki,

How about a toothbrush and some baking soda?? :D

Seriously, I have no Idea, but wanted to say that I see your photo program is working fine again!!


Yes indeed Kerry.. Im a happy camper, now if only I new how to add the fonts to it..but in due time.. :D :D

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Postby Classic Finn » Mon Feb 11, 2008 4:29 pm

goldcoop wrote:Heikki-

How 'bout scuffing it up, priming and painting it flat black & repaint the Chevy script in red?

http://www.metropartsmarket.com/autopai ... r-c24.html

Cheers,

Coop


Hi Coop.. Id like it to be rechromed but here in Finland there is only one company that does it anymore due to regulations.

In Sweden there is a place and they in turn send them to Mexico someplace.. :thinking:

But Id like it to be a drivable and dont need to be triple plated but at least have a clean appearance to it..

What do you folks think about this POR15? Have you used it?

Im thinking about the back...

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Postby toypusher » Mon Feb 11, 2008 5:09 pm

What do you folks think about this POR15? Have you used it?


I have a small kit of that, but have not used it. I am waiting for some warmer weather and I need to take the 'step' bars off the side of my truck and do some rust repair, then repaint them.
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Postby elmo » Mon Feb 11, 2008 5:25 pm

POR15...use it a lot. Very good stuff. I have done a bunch of frames with the stuff...covers well, very durable and user friendly.
It's scary when you start making the same noises as your coffee maker.
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Postby Classic Finn » Mon Feb 11, 2008 5:29 pm

elmo wrote:POR15...use it a lot. Very good stuff. I have done a bunch of frames with the stuff...covers well, very durable and user friendly.


So Elmo would it then work if I have the back side bead blasted as Rob mentioned and use that painted on ? Nobody will look in the back and underneath of that anyway except maybe the wife :lol: :lol:

How does one go about applying it? Brush or is it spray or?

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Postby elmo » Mon Feb 11, 2008 5:35 pm

Classic Finn wrote:
elmo wrote:POR15...use it a lot. Very good stuff. I have done a bunch of frames with the stuff...covers well, very durable and user friendly.


So Elmo would it then work if I have the back side bead blasted as Rob mentioned and use that painted on ? Nobody will look in the back and underneath of that anyway except maybe the wife :lol: :lol:

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Yes it will work. When I do some of the off road frames we just scuff with a whizzy wheel...wire brush...sand paper...etc and always have good out come. Did a utility trailer about 5 years ago and after running it in salty Wisconsin winter the paint still looks new.

I spray it on.
It's scary when you start making the same noises as your coffee maker.
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Postby Dark Horse » Mon Feb 11, 2008 5:42 pm

POR15 is fantastic stuff if a bit $pendy.

I used it a few years back, on my 79 Bronco. the stuff that has not seen any UV rays is still like new, floor boards bottom of doors. Where it was exposed to sunlight, it has chalked.

Fwiw my next rust preventer/converter/encapsulater will be Rust Bullet
Metallic grey in color, can be topcoated with any other paint, and it doesn't chalk when exposed to UV


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Postby Classic Finn » Thu Feb 14, 2008 2:44 pm

Hi there.. I was wondering if anyone is living near a good chroming company?

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Postby Nitetimes » Thu Feb 14, 2008 2:59 pm

Yep, there's one about 20 minutes from me. He's been there since I was a kid. From my understanding they are one of the best for restoration work.

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Postby mary and bob » Wed Feb 20, 2008 1:05 am

here's what I learned from two different POR15 salesmen [and experience]. use a throwaway brush, you can't clean it. if you get the paint on you, you'll have to wait till it wears off. if there is any paint in the lip of the can when you put the lid on, you won't get it back off. they recommend a plastic baggie between the lid and the can. both salesmen said the paint sticks better if the surface is rough, like sandblasted, or else it has to be etched, they sell that too. how about cleaning the back of the grille with those roloc pads, they come in fine, medium, and coarse. I've been using them to strip and clean our 46 Modernistic. the POR15 rep. said it was too smooth a finish though for their paint, said I'd have to use the etch first. Eastwood company claims their rust encapsulator paint is better, you can read a comparison on their website, eastwoon.com. forgot to mention I use the rolocs on an air die grinder. wire brush finish is too smooth also for POR15 without etch. Bob
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