Wiring 12v Switches

[cfiles]

I got my switches in the mail the other day, which is good. The problem is I have no idea how to use them.

I have the ones at the very top of the page: http://jrprvinc.com/rocker_switches.htm

I bought the double switches. The idea is to have a double switch on both sides of the camper. One switch turns on the porch lite on that side, the other switch turns on the overhead light in the cabin. That means one switch in each box will be a "double switch". If that makes sense.

Can anybody give me some pointers on how to wire these? I really expected 4 poles not just 2, so I am kind of lost.

[bobhenry]

You only switch the hot wire, let the ground go directly to the fixture

[jeep_bluetj]

I think I see your dilemma.

You want:

Left SW1 -> Left Portch Light
Left SW2 -> Interior light
Right SW2 -> Same interior light
Right SW1 -> Right Portch light

Am I right? If so, the default switch that's in that 'double switch' kit appears to be a SPST (Single pole, single throw) You want the SW2 switches to function as a 'three way' switch.

You can't make a three-way switch from a SPST switch. You CAN, however, make em out of SPDT switches, sold seperately below the combination faceplate switches of the page you reference.

If this is the case, I'll happily draw you a diagram on how to wire them

[bobhenry]

I put in a his and a hers interior light
so we won't have an argument about who
left the %&^* light on

[Nitetimes]

I put in a his and a hers interior light so we won't have an argument about who left the %&^* Light on

Me too, makes for easier reading when the other one is asleep, also good for late night forays.

[toypusher]

I use the same setup (sort of). Instead of having the switch on each side control a single overhead light, I got a double light and just switched each side seperately.

Like this:

[jeep_bluetj]

using two lights on the interior instead of controlling the same light is WAAAAAY simpler wiring.


Diagram for what I explained earlier (schematic, not physical layout)



Yup. You end up with 2 wires running from switch to switch (there's other ways to lay it out, but the schematic is the same).

I'd go with his/her and tell the left/right side occupant to turn the dang light off.

[cfiles]

You want...Am I right?

Yes you are. And I understand now that it will not work. So I will be putting in two separate lights, or a double light fixture like toypusher.

You only switch the hot wire, let the ground go directly to the fixture

That is what I was not sure about, thanks. That is going to make the wiring a bit odd is it not? I have the load coming in one pole on the switch and going out of another pole. Then I run the ground from the load wire directly to the ground on the fixture, is that correct? If I use paired wire what do I need to do with the ground on the wire running from the switch to the fixture? Or can I just wire the ground from the load to the ground from the switch, then wire the switch ground to the fixture ground?

If somebody understands that I will buy them a coke at the next gathering.

[bobhenry]

The word load indicates work or voltage ( The hot / positive side)
At no time is the ground directly connected to the hot without doing work first. let me explain how I ran mine. I took 2 wire colors black and white but lets say brown and white so it will matche your trailer 4 way color codes. The brown is hot and the white is ground. Whether you are feeding from a battery on board the trailer or the tow the hot ( Brown wire ) should pass thru a fuse or circuit breaker to protect the wiring. It should then run to the switch in one terminal and out the other and then to the load (the light or a 12 volt plug or whatever) The confusion may enter because most 12 volt lights and toys have a red and black wire. Simply remember" red is hot and black is not " Just like the battery in your car. Your brown is hot and connects to the hot ( Red ) the white is ground and connects to the black. At no time is the ground wire interupted it comes straight from the ground side of the car or battery. This is not to say you can't cut it if you need to feed it into a box but it would be wirenutted right back together. I made each paired run seperate for each fixture for easier troubleshooting if a problem ever arose and each hot could then have its own fuse. Hope this helps.

[jeep_bluetj]

Ok, lets start with the schematic diagram of what your trying to do:



It's much simpler than the last one, and the switches you have will work.

The little triangle symbol is ground. In general, any ground is a good ground when talking about automotive/trailer wiring.

1. There is no need to have a ground at the swtich. One pole of the switch is 12v from the battery, the other is out to the light. There is no ground terminal, nor is there a need to have a ground there. Doesn't mean that it's not convienient for your wiring layout, just that there isn't a need.

2. If you're running 2 conductor (zipcord) or similar, you can feed +12 and gnd into the spot where your switches are (one 2 cond cable). Tie all the grounds together and run two 2 cond cables out of the switch box. (switched 12v and gnd) One cable to each light.

3. OR, you can run just the hots from the switches and drop the ground into your fixture any way you can. This would be commonly done by running a wire directly from the fixture to the chassis.

4. I didn't draw it, but the +12 should be fused. You can run the feed from your fuse panel/box/etc.

Based on reading your post, I'd guess layout option #2 would be the easiest.

[Joanne]

Great schematic! This one will work for a lot of people during their build.

I have been thinking about using the "three way" circuit to turn on some under-trailer superbright white LEDs (from either side of the trailer). It would be a nice low-draw way have a night light to find my way back from those late night runs to the potty.

Joanne

using two lights on the interior instead of controlling the same light is WAAAAAY simpler wiring.


Diagram for what I explained earlier (schematic, not physical layout)



Yup. You end up with 2 wires running from switch to switch (there's other ways to lay it out, but the schematic is the same).

I'd go with his/her and tell the left/right side occupant to turn the dang light off.

[bobhenry]

Don't be so modest your is one of the best and was a great help to me.

Thanks a bunch!



This is what I was trying to explain verbally. It shows a dedicated ground all the way back to the battery for each run.

[Joanne]

Don't be so modest your is one of the best and was a great help to me.

Thanks a bunch!



This is what I was trying to explain verbally. It shows a dedicated ground all the way back to the battery for each run.

I'm glad that you found my diagrams useful! That whole thread turned into a great discussion and resource for builders. I know it sounds corny, but I'm glad that I've been able to make a contribution to the teardrop community that provided me with so much support and encouragement when I was building my trailer.

Joanne

[cfiles]

Ok, lets start with the schematic diagram of what your trying to do...

2. If you're running 2 conductor (zipcord) or similar, you can feed +12 and gnd into the spot where your switches are (one 2 cond cable). Tie all the grounds together and run two 2 cond cables out of the switch box. (switched 12v and gnd) One cable to each light.

Yes this is the easiest and exactly what I am trying to do. Thanks for the help everybody.

I plan on doing a sanity check this week before I put the lid on. That way if I need to adjust something it will not be too big of a deal.

[cuyeda]

Don't be so modest your is one of the best and was a great help to me.

Thanks a bunch!



This is what I was trying to explain verbally. It shows a dedicated ground all the way back to the battery for each run.

I'm glad that you found my diagrams useful! That whole thread turned into a great discussion and resource for builders. I know it sounds corny, but I'm glad that I've been able to make a contribution to the teardrop community that provided me with so much support and encouragement when I was building my trailer.

Joanne

Same kudos here, it would be interesting to have hit counter on your diagram to see just how many times it was viewed. Now if I could only figure out how to add: 110v converter, battery tender, voltage and amp meters, and a solar controller. Oh, and a solenoid to charge the battery while in tow.