I think I've found a great aluminum siding adhesive!

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

Postby TonyCooper » Mon Apr 11, 2005 12:26 am

Dean in Eureka, CA wrote:Oh OK,
I will have two layers of 1/8" ply on the exterior, which will cover the the spars and insulation.
Don't get me wrong... I wasn't thinking about just gluing the metal skin down on the roof. I'm thinking of the glue just as a way to prevent "oil-canning".


You started me to thinking about the outer skin and I decided to go ahead and install it. I put 1/4" luan on length wise. It went on easily. I'm going to try the adhesive on the skin in the next week or so... I'll let you know how it turns out. See details on my build site below.
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Postby Guest » Mon Apr 11, 2005 11:45 am

Tony,
It looks like things are going without a hitch.
Did you do a test piece and set it in the sun?
BTW- Does that carpet adhesive say that it reamains flexible after it cures?
Just curious because I tore out some carpeting recently and the adhesive was pretty hard. (Don't have a clue what brand it was)
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Postby TonyCooper » Mon Apr 11, 2005 3:36 pm

Dean in Eureka, CA wrote:Tony,
It looks like things are going without a hitch.
Did you do a test piece and set it in the sun?
BTW- Does that carpet adhesive say that it reamains flexible after it cures?
Just curious because I tore out some carpeting recently and the adhesive was pretty hard. (Don't have a clue what brand it was)


Nope, it doesn't say if it remains pliable... but I went out and checked it again and it has the consistency and sticky properties similar to that of of chewing gum, maybe a little harder but definitely can easily be shaped. I applied the stuff to the sides just over a week ago and it is still very flexible... the tub did say it was water resistant within a week of applying and mentioned shelf life but that was about all.

The teardrop sat in the sun (80F) all day yesterday while I was applying the 1/4" luan to the ceiling. The stuff never changed consistency.
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Postby Geron » Mon Apr 11, 2005 4:50 pm

I just bought a gallon at HD. Directions mentioned that it bonded to roughed aluminum boat decks. So, I figured it'd bond to my aluminum. I was going to etch the aluminum with muriatic acid but decided just to sand it to rough it up. Probably be able to glue up the other side tomorrow -- Maybe :NC

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Don't know if you can see the yellow pine pollen. It's all over everything :R My pink insulation has turned green!

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Postby McTeardrops » Tue Apr 12, 2005 7:32 am

I remember a buddy of mine demonstrating oil-canning on the aluminum skin of a Shelby Cobra, when the six foot six, two eighty five pound owner walked up...
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Postby purplepickup » Tue Apr 12, 2005 8:14 am

McTeardrops wrote:I remember a buddy of mine demonstrating oil-canning on the aluminum skin of a Shelby Cobra, when the six foot six, two eighty five pound owner walked up...

In Texas that's grounds for a lynching isn't it?
A real Shelby Cobra sells for more than $500,000. :shock:
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Postby mikeschn » Tue Apr 12, 2005 9:26 am

Geron wrote:Don't know if you can see the yellow pine pollen. It's all over everything :R My pink insulation has turned green!

Geron


That's what they refer to when they say "Spring is in the air"!!! :lol: :lol:

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Postby Geron » Tue Apr 12, 2005 11:09 am

mikeschn wrote:
Geron wrote:Don't know if you can see the yellow pine pollen. It's all over everything :R My pink insulation has turned green!

Geron


That's what they refer to when they say "Spring is in the air"!!! :lol: :lol:

Mike...


Yeah! I love it. Nice enough to get some work done. Just finished the second AL skin. Used the glue that started this thread - Henry 663. Went on very smooth. Can retack up to 70 minutes. Needs to be rolled after 2 hrs. That's just about my speed 8)

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Check back in about 20 years and we'll see how shes holding up. Check for oil canning, bubbles. etc. Heck, just as long as it doesn't blow off driving down the road. :thumbsup:

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Postby doug hodder » Tue Apr 12, 2005 9:07 pm

Pine pollen doesn't hit us for another couple of weeks, My driveway washes yellow with it, thank god for Flonase. It's on its way however. Doug Hodder
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Postby TonyCooper » Sat Apr 16, 2005 11:59 pm

I just finished installing the .060 aluminum ceiling skin. It went on surprisingly easy! I used the Henry 663 adhesive... we'll see how well it holds up.

I have to tell you, I actually prefer the .060 thickness aluminum to the .035 I put on the sides. It just seems so much stronger. I wish I had used it all around.

Anyway, I deviated from the plans again today. Instead of stopping the skin at the hatch opening, I bent the skin 90 degrees and stopped it at the base of the oak spars that will support the hatch hinge. My thinking is that if water seeps under the hinge I'll see it immediately on the galley upper bulkhead. I also think the aluminum will make a better mating surface for the upper hatch gasket.

Pics and details in my build site

PS: Ever Onward ... after 24.5 years, only 14 days left to my IBM career and a new beginning at Lenovo... it's going to be an interesting year!
Last edited by TonyCooper on Mon Apr 18, 2005 9:10 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Geron » Sun Apr 17, 2005 6:02 am

TonyCooper wrote:I just finished installing the .060 aluminum ceiling skin. It went on surprising easy! I used the Henry 663 adhesive... we'll see how well it holds up.

PS: Ever Onward ... after 24.5 years, only 14 days left to my IBM career and a new beginning at Lenovo... it's going to be an interesting year!


Tony, you do awesome work :applause: I enjoy visiting your site. And Congratualtions on your new beginning. I'm looking at 3 years 2 months and 13 days at this time :worship:

Looks like the top is the next thing for me. I have used .040 for both sides and top. I have considered putting the hatch hinge UNDER the aluminum on top and on TOP of the aluminum on the hatch to follow the water flow. Still thinking :thinking: The only caveat I see is it would be a bear to take the hinge off if ever required.

Oh BTW I'm using the Henry 663 also. It was very easy to work with. When I drilled the holes for my fender screws about a week later the adhesive came out of the holes stretching like a rubber band. Seems to maintain it's elasticity for expansion (at least for a week!)


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Postby hammer & tongs » Tue Apr 26, 2005 6:49 am

Did you guys prime the wood or masonite or just use the Henry's 633 right on the raw material ?
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Postby Geron » Tue Apr 26, 2005 8:47 am

hammer & tongs wrote:Did you guys prime the wood or masonite or just use the Henry's 633 right on the raw material ?


I just slapped it on the plywood.

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Postby TonyCooper » Tue Apr 26, 2005 10:00 am

I primed the sides, but didn't prime the top. I have not seen a difference.
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Postby len19070 » Tue Apr 26, 2005 6:44 pm

I use the Henrys for a lot of stuff, I glue fabric or rug to interior walls/ceiling. Glue the linoleum to the floor. And Aluminum to a raw wood body. I also use it to glue a sheet of PVC to a sheet of 1/4" laun as a backing for my underbellies. I like the stuff.

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