Luan durability

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

Postby toypusher » Fri Apr 04, 2008 6:45 pm

For my walls, I am currently considering 1/8" luan (exterior glue) over 1x framing and insulation, and 1/2" oak plywood for the interior skin. I like to woody look, but the cost of exterior plywood is very high.


If you are using 1" framing, then you certainly do NOT need 1/2" interior skins!! 1/4" on one side (I would suggest the outside) and 1/8" on the other side (reccomend inside) would be plenty for strength. Also, I am assuming that you are actually using 3/4" framing that is commonly called 1". Anyway, be sure to put insulation in the walls to keep the heat (and the cold) out.
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Postby TPMcGinty » Fri Apr 04, 2008 6:59 pm

I've heard tha luan doesn't take stain very well. Is this true?
Tim

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Postby toypusher » Fri Apr 04, 2008 7:03 pm

TPMcGinty wrote:I've heard tha luan doesn't take stain very well. Is this true?


I would recommend a 'sanding sealer' to help even out the stain. Laun does not typically take stain very evenly.
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Postby Jiminsav » Fri Apr 04, 2008 7:03 pm

I've had a piece of luan sitting outside for 3 years as a side table top on my grill..been through hell and back and still in one piece..a little grey, and has a slight curve, but no delamination or rot.
and thats outside in the hot, wet, coastal Georgia.
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Postby TPMcGinty » Fri Apr 04, 2008 7:05 pm

toypusher wrote:
TPMcGinty wrote:I've heard tha luan doesn't take stain very well. Is this true?


I would recommend a 'sanding sealer' to help even out the stain. Laun does not typically take stain very evenly.


I was going to use some CPES. Would that work?
Tim

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Postby toypusher » Fri Apr 04, 2008 7:12 pm

TPMcGinty wrote:
toypusher wrote:
TPMcGinty wrote:I've heard tha luan doesn't take stain very well. Is this true?


I would recommend a 'sanding sealer' to help even out the stain. Laun does not typically take stain very evenly.


I was going to use some CPES. Would that work?


Not sure on that one. The CPES might seal it too good and it would not take stain at all then. I am not sure on that.
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Postby IndyTom » Fri Apr 04, 2008 7:45 pm

TrappedinNM,

It will take too long to do you any good, but I intend to find some of the answers later this year. I am building a woody and am intending to finish the luan natural with spar varnish. I have seen that done other places and think it looks good. I plan to cut all my trim from baltic birch to contrast with the luan.

I will be interested to see what you find out.


Tom
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My build thread:http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=36226

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Postby Airspeed » Fri Apr 04, 2008 7:48 pm

I used Luan as siding on my garden house (the love shack) and its held up for ten years and looks as new. Most plywoods use the same glue unless you buy marine plywood, the luan I used on my garden house was rated interior but it has the same glue as exterior plywood, "water resistant" Aaron
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Postby Micro469 » Fri Apr 04, 2008 10:19 pm

I used 1/8 luan on the outside of my tear. I liked the color of the luan, so I didn't stain it. I covered it with epoxy and I think it came out really nice.

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CPES will work as well, as long as you don't want to stain it. I gave the bottom Of my floor about 4 coats and then painted it. If you use CPES on the sides you can use epoxy over it, CPES is just a very watery epoxy...

:thumbsup:
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Postby bobhenry » Sat Apr 05, 2008 6:31 pm

The reason luan accepts stain spotty is the same natural oil that protect it from the ravages of weather. Cedar has the same oily nature. You might experiment with some of the water base tinted deck protectant finishes but why, the luan on Chubby gave a warm honey red finish after 3 coats of spar varnish. He has sat outside in this winters weather and the finish bead water lake a freshly waxed sports car.
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Postby nikwax » Sun Apr 06, 2008 6:43 pm

Airspeed wrote: Most plywoods use the same glue unless you buy marine plywood,



marine plywoods use the same glues as other exterior plywoods:

"There are two adhesives, interior (which does not stand up to wetting) and exterior (which is not affected by long term wetting and would be called waterproof). Marine grade uses exterior adhesive, which is the same adhesive as used in the cheap CD-X plywood or any other exterior grade or "interior grade with exterior glue" plywood"
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Postby Airspeed » Sun Apr 06, 2008 10:40 pm

Not to be argumentative but marine plywood's do actualy use a different glue than CDX, and other "exterior" grade plywoods, Most common interior and exterior grade plywoods use the same water resistant glue.
At least all the thousands of sheets and units I have sold during my 20 years in the lumber industry, unless they have changed glues in the five years since I retired. I toured several plywood mills as part of my job and I was surprised that they all used the same glue on interior and exterior grade plywood, including decorative paneling and some OSB and particle board.
The marine grade plywoods I sold, which included Doug fir, luan, mahogany and several types of sign board and pressured treated plywood all used waterproof glues, some with urethane.
Again, I dont want to come across as argumentative, But I have had to confirm these glues to my customers on many occasions, I have even had to put the customer on the phone with the mill on many occasions because they wouldn't believe me. Aaron
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Postby doug hodder » Sun Apr 06, 2008 11:15 pm

Airspeed is correct, and in addition, the marine glues are antifungicidal to boot. Marine grade material is typically certified with a stamp on it and rated for boat construction, at least the import mohoganies are, not sure about the domestic firs. By all means, avoid the "Chinese Antichrist"....cheap chinese luan....Inexpensive now, pay the price later, can't take much of a bend before it explodes and you find that the interior is crap! Doug
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Postby b.bodemer » Mon Apr 07, 2008 6:40 pm

Tim,

I emailed the same question to Rot Doc and Doc responded that you would stain first, then use CPES and then your choice of finish....................(spar urethane, varnish).

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Postby TPMcGinty » Mon Apr 07, 2008 9:57 pm

b.bodemer wrote:Tim,

I emailed the same question to Rot Doc and Doc responded that you would stain first, then use CPES and then your choice of finish....................(spar urethane, varnish).

Barb


Thanks Barb.
Tim

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