Using door casing as door seal...(or is this stupid)

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

Postby tonyj » Sun Apr 13, 2008 9:29 pm

Dave,

Tjat's the same method I used.
Image

Picture from the inside with the door closed.
Image

The rubber gasket is "D" shaped. As far as I know, no water penetration yet.
Still graced with two eyes and ten fingers (due in no small part to luck!).

Just when you think a problem is solved, an uglier result replaces it.

tony
User avatar
tonyj
Super Lifetime Member
 
Posts: 2468
Images: 160
Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 10:18 pm
Location: Texas, Corpus Christi

Postby Dooner » Sun Apr 13, 2008 10:49 pm

tonyj wrote:The rubber gasket is "D" shaped. As far as I know, no water penetration yet.



:x Hey, let's try to keep this down to at least a PG rating!

:R :lol: :lol: :lol:
Dooner.
Image Image

TED NUGENT FOR PRESIDENT!
User avatar
Dooner
Gold Donating Member
 
Posts: 555
Images: 69
Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2005 12:01 am
Location: TEXAS, small town of TROY

Postby tonyj » Sun Apr 13, 2008 10:55 pm

Dooner wrote:
tonyj wrote:The rubber gasket is "D" shaped. As far as I know, no water penetration yet.



:x Hey, let's try to keep this down to at least a PG rating!

:R :lol: :lol: :lol:


I worry about you, Dooner. :lol:
Still graced with two eyes and ten fingers (due in no small part to luck!).

Just when you think a problem is solved, an uglier result replaces it.

tony
User avatar
tonyj
Super Lifetime Member
 
Posts: 2468
Images: 160
Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 10:18 pm
Location: Texas, Corpus Christi
Top

Postby Steve Frederick » Mon Apr 14, 2008 6:27 am

I use a D-shaped seal, from Austin Hardware.
As was mentioned, space the inner casing out just enough to allow the seal to compress a bit. I use 1/4" ply.
Also, be certain to maintain a good gap, especially at the bottom, around the door. This will ensure that the door won't rub due to wood movement, and minimize pooling of water at the bottom of the door seal.
Seal any exposed grain very well with epoxy.
Blessings, Steve
Adirondacks, Upstate New York
Building Journals
The Shop Manual's 8-years old!! Thank's everyone!
New! 'Rondack Lodge Plans!Order Here!
Image
User avatar
Steve Frederick
Custom Teardrop Builder
 
Posts: 1984
Images: 29
Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2004 5:02 pm
Location: Upstate New York, Adirondacks (Great Sacandaga Lake)
Top

Postby GregB » Mon Apr 14, 2008 10:10 am

Steve,

You wouldn't happen to have the product number of that seal at Austin would you? I've ordered a catalog, but don't have it yet, and they don't have any pictures on their site.

Sorry, they don't have MANY pictures, is it the TL X119-HT, "D" shaped bulb seal?

GB
I'm not dead, yet. I'm feeling better.
User avatar
GregB
500 Club
 
Posts: 528
Images: 108
Joined: Thu Sep 29, 2005 2:22 pm
Location: UT, Lehi
Top

Postby MrBuzz » Mon Apr 14, 2008 10:33 am

What a great idea to seal the doors! I can't believe that I haven't seen that before. Water has to go a long way to make it inside vs. an exterior seal like on my build.
That's definitely going on my list for the TD#2.
Generic Benroy - built 2007, 4X8, 1175 HF trailer, Structoglass roof and headliner, 12v and 110v electrics with Schumacher charger.
User avatar
MrBuzz
Teardrop Master
 
Posts: 261
Images: 77
Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:13 pm
Location: Wisconsin, Eau Claire
Top

Postby Miriam C. » Mon Apr 14, 2008 10:43 am

:o :lol: Bet these would work
http://www.aircraftdoorseals.com/
This is a good site to see pictures
http://www.tacomarine.com/cat--Weather- ... _seal.html

Grants hatch seal is good if you need a thicker seal and I bet he has different sizes. :thumbsup:

You can also get it at the box stores. Many different sizes.
“Forgiveness means giving up all hope for a better past.â€
User avatar
Miriam C.
our Aunti M
 
Posts: 19675
Images: 148
Joined: Wed Feb 15, 2006 3:14 pm
Location: Southwest MO
Top

Postby Steve Frederick » Mon Apr 14, 2008 11:45 am

GregB wrote:Steve,

You wouldn't happen to have the product number of that seal at Austin would you? I've ordered a catalog, but don't have it yet, and they don't have any pictures on their site.

Sorry, they don't have MANY pictures, is it the TL X119-HT, "D" shaped bulb seal?

GB


Greg,
I used profile X-109,5/8" wide, the same as X119, 3/4" wide. You could use either, depending upon the seal lip to cover.
Blessings, Steve
Adirondacks, Upstate New York
Building Journals
The Shop Manual's 8-years old!! Thank's everyone!
New! 'Rondack Lodge Plans!Order Here!
Image
User avatar
Steve Frederick
Custom Teardrop Builder
 
Posts: 1984
Images: 29
Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2004 5:02 pm
Location: Upstate New York, Adirondacks (Great Sacandaga Lake)
Top

Postby Juneaudave » Sat Jul 19, 2008 6:12 pm

Bump...I'm impressed with the color dye in the epoxy for those door edges...I'm not near finished, but I can already see that this is going to turn out very well and leave a nice finished, professional looking, edge...Thanks Steve and all...

Image
:thumbsup:
User avatar
Juneaudave
Super Duper Lifetime Member
 
Posts: 3237
Images: 380
Joined: Sun Jul 03, 2005 12:11 pm
Location: Juneau, Alaska
Top

Postby tinksdad » Sat Jul 19, 2008 6:21 pm

With the "bump", this is the first I've seen this thread. My door is square. My local Orange Box store (it might have been the Blue one though) has a molding they call panel cap. It all ready has the recess pre-cut with a nice contour to the side that shows. I'm going to look at it again when it's time, but that may be what I use to put the seal on the inside.
User avatar
tinksdad
500 Club
 
Posts: 966
Images: 155
Joined: Mon May 05, 2008 9:20 pm
Location: Olive Branch, MS
Top

Previous

Return to Teardrop Construction Tips & Techniques

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 7 guests