Greetings!

[RC]

Hello everyone,
My name is RC, and I stumbled across this forum a few weeks ago. I have been lurking around, and decided I would finally make my first post.

This place seems like a wealth of knowledge, and I am learning a lot of information about small trailers here.

At this time, I am contemplating building a "square teardrop". I want to make something very inexpensively, because I will only use it for maybe 2 or 3 nights a year at most, and this design looks like one of the more simple designs that I have seen. I know one thing, it seems better than pitching my tent in inclimate weather!!

Hope to learn some more from you people, take care for now.
RC

[BufordT]

Welcome RC.

Square trailer. Just 4x8 sheets on all sides, top, and bottom. Are you going to make it 4x4 in the front and back?

Bufordt

[RC]

Not a square trailer, a square teardrop. Something like the plans that are posted on another members website. Let's see if this comes out right.
Only I will adjust the plans for a 4 X 8 instead of the 4 X 10 as shown.

In all actuality, not too different from your design.

I will have some questions before I even start this thing, I am in the "dreaming & schemeing" stage right now.

[BufordT]

I really like that design. Been thinking about using something more along those lines on the next one also.

When you going to start.

Bufordt

[jay]

considering resale?

the extra fun [work!] might pay off if you decide to unload it...

[RC]

Don't know when I am going to start. I am trying to design some plans and features now. Quite a bit of work. The design in my previous post is designed for a 4 X 10 setup. I am trying to rework them into a 4 X 8 design, but not there yet.

Something that has puzzled me about the process is, does one make the frame and flooring less than 4 X 8, so that when it comes to putting a top on, a 4 X 8 piece fits perfect? What is the best way to seal up the top and side joints?

I already have a Harbor Freight Trailer, one of the 4 X 8 fold up types, that I have had for about 16 years. I am hoping to take the steel decking off of it, and use it as a basis for my "square teardrop" design. I hope that the location of the axles is OK, as I don't want to modify the frame. I don'r really need a galley, but will probably include a basic area in the back to allow me to make some coffee and eggs if the need arises.

I am hoping that it can just be painted with some type of good paint to seal everything up, as I want to keep this thing as simple, and as inexpensive as possible. I seem to have too many hobbies that cost too much money!

[BufordT]

You will need to move the axle back even without a kitchen. You have the door or doors to worry about either way.

To make the design you are looking at you will need to get a 4x10 sheet of plywood and cut it down to 4x9. I couldn't get 4x10 so I had to use 5x10. Your local lumber yard can get this for you. Cost me about 80.00 a sheet. Comes in 3/4" thickness.

A good outdoor paint would work out fine. I would go to a local R V place next time and get the parts to cover the joints. What I used I didn't like.

Bufordt

[angib]

Buford and RC,

Plugging the dimensions from my plans of your Mini-Hopper into the now-infamous Rik's spreadsheet gives a hitch weight of 10-13% of trailer weight - the result depends on where you think the 'front' of the trailer body is. My plans are based on the Harbor Freight trailer with its axle in the standard position.

Andrew

[RC]

Buford,
I want to be able to use the standard 4 X 8 size of plywood because of cost factors, and availability. That is the reason I am trying to reconfigure the plans that Andrew has on his site.

Something I should have mentioned before, my trailer only has 8 inch wheels on it. I think that will make a door a lott easier to fit, because the fender barely comes over the trailer frame.

[RC]

Andrew,
If memory serves me correct, 10 % is about right for hitch weight, correct?

Do you think your 'SQUARE' TEARDROP MARK 2 plans lend themselves to be adapted successfully to a 4 X 8 foot size without moving the axle on my standard folding Harbor Freight trailer?

[angib]

RC,

10-15% hitch weight is what most people recommend - but the problem is that if you put a lot of stuff in the galley, way behind the axle, you run the risk of reducing this to zero, or even less. If you are scrupulous to always check the nose weight (for example by using the Human Arm Mark 1 weighing device) and move weights forward if it's light, I would not be worried if it was me.

Also you might want to hang on until the next design is ready, the Simple



It's an 8x4ft on a Harbor Freight.

Andrew

[RC]

This is kinda what I have been playing around with.

[BufordT]

I thougt about the first design all day R C and if you cut a foot off the back of the HF trailer. You will have a 7 ft bed and be able to make the first design work out.

Just my 2 cents.

Bufordt

[BufordT]

RC,

10-15% hitch weight is what most people recommend - but the problem is that if you put a lot of stuff in the galley, way behind the axle, you run the risk of reducing this to zero, or even less. If you are scrupulous to always check the nose weight (for example by using the Human Arm Mark 1 weighing device) and move weights forward if it's light, I would not be worried if it was me.

Also you might want to hang on until the next design is ready, the Simple



It's an 8x4ft on a Harbor Freight.




Andrew

Now Andrew you have a really simple design. Shouldn't take much to build and be really easy for anyone to build this design.

Bufordt

[David Niver]

RC,
If you want an idea of what the tear will look like with 8" wheels take a look at my site. http://groups.msn.com/camper/shoebox.msnw?Page=1
It didn't look to bad in my garage but when it came out it looked silly I thought so I have changed it to 14" wheels and moved the axle back another inch.
I just hope it will pull as well as it did on its first trip.
I'll post more pics when she comes out of the garage next weekend for her second trip after some changes.
David Niver