Square Tubing size for walls

[urbanironaz]

preperation is the key to a good weld..

[Trackstriper]

....and lots of practice. You could come out of this thing having gained a new skill. Find some clean metal scraps, maybe check out a small batch of those 6013 rods. Some rods burn harshly and others seem to have a soft characteristic to the burn. Highly technical terms. Try different rod diameters also. I haven't been at it in a while, so I'm rusty, but I learned with the Lincoln buzzbox and would still use it but I live in an apartment now so I've only got 120v service in my garage. I picked up a Weldpak 100 several years ago and have used it with flux-core wire. Still haven't gotten used to the spatter. I think the stick welder had less. I haven't decided if I'm going to get the gas kit and bottle for the wire feed. $$$. Don't underrate the Lincoln 225. It may take more skill to work with it on thin stock, but if that's what you have... As I mentioned earlier, I've made a number of small projects with 1" 16ga tube, all with the stick welder. Nothing ever broke.

Practice, practice, practice.

Unless you get completely frustrated. Then pick up a new welder.

Oh, and I finally bought one of those inexpensive auto-darkening helmets at Northern Tool for about 50 bucks. So much better than the old flip-down helmet.

J.B.

[G-force]

the 6010/6011 rod is your your problem, its typicaly used for when you need deep penetration and extra cleaning action (rusty, painted, etc metal), because of this it runs hot and lays down slow. It also requires alot of movement...typicaly a whipping action, triangle, etc. Try the 6013, its runs smooth, you simply run the bead in a smooth line, no side to side or whipping motion, just keep the travel speed and arc length consistant as you move. Reguardless, thin gauge is tricky with stick welding. Be sure you are using a smaller diameter rod, 3/32 ought to be fine, no need to go to 1/8" under 1/4 material thickness.

Mike

[Nitetimes]

For an inexperienced welder 6013 are a must. They will let you get better instead of getting disgusted.

[madprinter]

Thanks for the advise. The 6013 rods really made a differents. I welded
up most of my frame today. I did end up filling a few holes, but it was'nt
near as bad as with the 6011 rods. My welding isnt pretty, but I'll get my grinder on it and smooth out the oversized welds. I don't think anythings going to come apart. After I get the frame body in good shape, I'll mount my tongue and axle. I'm not in a rush, as I want it to be right when I'm finished.

[ArtMini]

I was wondering about making a steel frame for sides and top too. You guys answered all my questions. Was concerned about the weight and attaching the wood. I guess I could just use sheet metal screws to attach the wood and glue my outside skin wood to the plywood. This way I can get insulation in between the ribs. Ok but how do i attach the inside wood to the metal ribs? Can I get away with just gluing them?

Art

[jp03]

Was reviewing on the hobart welder site, the 6011 is DEEP penetration. The 6013 rod is "SHALLOW" penetration. Thought it was the other way around myself.

[emiller]

Check out the Five Wide Club construction photos. http://www.flickr.com/photos/five_wide_ ... 982192016/

[Billy Onions]

Check out the Five Wide Club construction photos. http://www.flickr.com/photos/five_wide_ ... 982192016/

Why didn't
I find that earlier

Not too unlike my build (I hope)

http://tearjerkers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=939

For the benefit of the original poster the box section on mine is 1" x 14swg.

It is plenty strong enough. I am hoping when it is finished it shouldn't weigh anymore than a traditionalwoooden one.

If you look at the five wide club hatch there is hardly anything in it compared to a wooden hatch.

Good luck with the build.