What does STEADY test light on left turn signal mean?

Anything electric, AC or DC

Postby bobhenry » Thu May 29, 2008 8:23 am

Go back and demand they fix it correctly and take the trailer along. I am sure they didn't have a problem taking your $$. When they are done plug everything in and be sure all work correctly.

In my years in U haul management we installed 100's of hitches. It was not uncommon to have a bad converter right out of the box. They are rather delicate and yes you probably fried it.

P.S. don't mention your attempts at fixing the problem they will use that as an excuse that you may have done the dirty deed.
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Postby madjack » Thu May 29, 2008 11:07 am

Jim, I hate to say this but it sounds like the shop you took it too wassa bunch of incompetent/ignorant boooooobs and didn't use a converter but ran the wiring just like it was on the car...a 6 wire system...no telling what happened when it was hooked to the 4 wire system on the trailer...I would do as Brwbier suggested and bring trailer and car back and insist on satisfaction...
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Postby Dale M. » Thu May 29, 2008 11:27 am

This site says there is no HOPPY brand kit available for you Hyundai... But recommends this....

http://www.hitches4less.com/universal.html

ETRAILER says to use this kit.....

http://www.etrailer.com/pc-VWH~118433.htm

People who did work on your car are not reliable or knowledgeable... Go back and demand that its right or you will write complaint to BBB in your community....

If you are adventurous, you can probably do it yourself with better success....

Dale
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Catch up...

Postby kayakrguy » Thu May 29, 2008 11:34 am

Jack, Bob, Brew...

First latest: took car to shop folks....told them problem. They test the car connection--guy says, 'module fried'...gotta get another one. I'll get it installed tomorrow....after I double check WHAT they are going to install...

History--After the first set of problems appeared--the 6 wire installation--I DID take the trailer and the car to the shop and asked them to make it right. They admitted that they DID use a 6 wire connector and apologized. The trailer worked semi-ok...eg the turn signal lamp was noticeably weaker on the left side....I thought that might be the ground....I HAD grounded the lights to the trailer frame earlier this year.....I checked the ground...tested out ok with the tester....but then...last weekend kaput!!

Jack, I am not gonna disagree with your assessment of the shop....

But hereabouts, these folks are THE place to go for truck and trailer wiring and hitches--esp commercial apps. They did my Altima when I first finished the td and it worked fine from the get-go.

However, I suspect they have some help problems now, and it may be their workmanship is dropping off....if they don't get it right this time then I am off to UHAUL or Hecht. Hell, I might try to use the etrailer site and do it myself if it comes to that....

I did get the new lights today...LED's whooee, regular starshp enterprise here :lol:

Jim
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Postby madjack » Thu May 29, 2008 11:51 am

yep Jim...a shop is only as good as the people who work there...as long as they make it good and no further damage done is as good as you can hope and expect...good luck...at least you now know where the problems is located......
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Postby bobhenry » Thu May 29, 2008 12:48 pm

At least present them with the receipt for the replacement converter.
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Brain Fried--need a glass of wine, ideas, CPR, Oxygen.....

Postby kayakrguy » Thu May 29, 2008 4:08 pm

Hi folks,

Well I had a :x kind of afternoon. Simply put, nothing went right :thumbdown:

Ok, lets get a grip :roll: Here's my story.

A brief history: My right light fixture has worked fine. I swapped out bulb from my problem left light and that worked fine in the right fixture. So bulb not the problem.

BB suggested trying the 'good' light fixture on the left side to be sure that my problem wasn't downstream in the wiring before the light. Good idea.
I did that.

Results: After connecting the good light to the left running and brake wires, I did the test from my car's battery. The result was the same as before..I got a BRIGHT light on BOTH the running light AND on the turn signal wire! (I am not sure what Les' point about a light being in the wrong way might cause this--on my light, the bulb will only go in one way.

Now, here's the wire picture:

Starting at the connector, there is a splitter on the running (brown) light wire, dividing it to go down the left and right sides of the trailer. The only splices in the running light wire are at each side for the front running lights, then continuing directly to the tail lights.

The yellow and green wires are a continuous run from the connector to the tail lights. Both tail lights are grounded to the trailer frame with white wire running to the front where they meet the ground wire from the connector, and are screwed to the tongue frame.

I got under the trailer and looked for any nicks, cuts, rub spots etc. NADA. It is new wire, but you never know with rocks etc.....

CONCLUSION: 1) Right now, the only thing my brain came up with is that there is a short in the connector....???? or, 2) I have entered an alien force field 3) Farraday, Ohm, et al are wrong! 4) I have deeply offended Zeus, Poseidon, Athena et al....

So, if anyone can suggest something to pursue tomorrow by way of analysis, I'm all ears <g>

Thanks,

Jim
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Two separate problems...

Postby kayakrguy » Thu May 29, 2008 6:34 pm

Dale,

Sorry to confuse you.

I have two problems:

First, my TV module is fried, will be replaced tomorrow at shop.

Second, the left tail light on my trailer is not functioning correctly. When I put 12 volts on the running light circuit--the bright brake light filament turns on. When I apply the 12 volts to the turn signal/brake circuit--I get bright light again.

I should NOT get a bright light on the running light circuit. That is the problem.

Jim
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Postby Dale M. » Thu May 29, 2008 6:40 pm

NOTE- I deleted a previous message that the above message refers to..

Really think if there is a problem on one side its a problem with contacts at base of socket (misalignment) or bulb....

Dale
Last edited by Dale M. on Thu May 29, 2008 6:48 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby madjack » Thu May 29, 2008 6:45 pm

Dale M. wrote:..............................Really think if there is a problem on one side its a problem with contacts at base of socket (misalignment) or bulb....

Dale


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Re: Brain Fried--need a glass of wine, ideas, CPR, Oxygen...

Postby Hinermad » Thu May 29, 2008 7:00 pm

kayakrguy wrote:The yellow and green wires are a continuous run from the connector to the tail lights. Both tail lights are grounded to the trailer frame with white wire running to the front where they meet the ground wire from the connector, and are screwed to the tongue frame.


Jim,

Are you certain that the connector is wired correctly? I've seen some pretty flaky stuff happen when somebody started counting at the wrong end when they were wiring up the contacts in a connector. Open ground leads act especially weird. In that case a trailer might make an intermittent ground connection to the vehicle through the hitch, so sometimes it would act all right and other times it wouldn't.

I have deeply offended Zeus, Poseidon, Athena et al....


With electicity, Murphy outranks them all.

So, if anyone can suggest something to pursue tomorrow by way of analysis, I'm all ears


I'd suggest you get a continuity tester (which is different from a test light -it has a battery in it and will light up if the points it touches are connected electrically) or a multimeter set to measure resistance, and see if these are connected:

1) With the trailer plugged into the vehicle but the hitch detached, make sure there's a connection between the vehicle body ground and the trailer body ground. (Test this with the vehicle turned off.)

2) With the trailer unplugged from the vehicle, check each terminal on the trailer connector and make sure it's connected to the wire coming out of it that it's supposed to be. If I'm reading the drawings I found online correctly, the shrouded contact on your trailer plug is ground and should be connected to the white wire, the contact next to that goes to the brown wire (markers), the one next to that is yellow (left turn), and the last one is green (right turn). (Somebody please correct me if I got that wrong.)

3) If you haven't already, check to make sure your vehicle plug is wired correctly with the trailer disconnected. Use your test light for this, with the vehicle turned on. There's a nice little chart at http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/2358/ ... s/a08.html about 2/3 of the way down the page that shows which wires should light up your test light for left turn, right turn, brake, and tail lights turned on. The paragraph above it says to connect your test light clip to the vehicle frame ground. I think that's a good idea. If you get normal readings, then clip to the white wire (which I believe is the exposed contact on your vehicle plug) and repeat the measurements. If they're different, the vehicle plug wiring is bad.

I know it's a lot of work, but each connection in a circuit doubles the probability of an error and you have a LOT of connections. Also, don't overlook the fact that there may be more than one problem - if you find a problem and fix it, don't assume that's the last one.

Good luck!

Dave
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Postby madjack » Thu May 29, 2008 7:06 pm

Jim...have you read this post by "tear les" http://tnttt.com/viewto ... 987#217987
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Postby BrwBier » Thu May 29, 2008 7:44 pm

I don't want to be the one to pee on your shoes, BUT, I also bought LED lights just because they were cool. When hooked to a tow vehicle that doesnt use a converter they worked great. When hooked to my van that does need a converter some very strange things happened, it too long of a story for now but you need to know that you need a powered converter or your LED lights might not work. LED's do not have enough current draw to make the converter see a light there.
If you moved the good light to the bad side and got the same results then you need a multi meter and test each wire from end to end and make sure it is not in contact with anything its not intended to connect to. It's not a hard thing to do just take a deep breath and look at where each wire goes and test each one separately. If it would come to that I could even help you over the phone, just PM me, I have more Trac fone minutes than I will ever use anyway. You will need a multi meter ($10 to $15) and a extra piece of wire that will reach from the front to the back of your trailer. Once you have those two items the rest is easy.
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Postby bobhenry » Fri May 30, 2008 7:28 am

twist in an 1157 buld and be sure it's fully engaged to align the contacts properly. Now do you still have the problem.?????
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Continuity testing results.....

Postby kayakrguy » Fri May 30, 2008 3:47 pm

Hi folks,

Went to home despot, got continuity tester.....have spent last hour testing and double checking.

Procedure: using a long piece of #14, I tested all circuits on both sides of the trailer. I am reporting results below....

Right side

Ground tested good
Running light wire tested good
Green turn wire tested good

Left side

Ground tested good
Running light wire tested good
Yellow turn wire tested good.

But, there WAS a problem with the LEFT side.

With the test wire on the running light pin, I can get BOTH the running light wire AND the left turn wire to test good. If I put the test wire on the left turn pin, I can get BOTH the left turn wire AND the running light wire to test good.

Now, I tested the right side the same way--no problem

CONCLUSION: A Bad Connector. Whaddya'all think??

Jim
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