In the beginning, there was sawdust..

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In the beginning, there was sawdust..

Postby looped » Mon Jun 02, 2008 12:22 am

well just got back from my friends house where the build is taking place, and this time i took my camera with me.

So without further adieu, pics!

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Postby peggyearlchris » Mon Jun 02, 2008 9:38 pm

:thumbsup: You have a great start. Keep that saw dust flying. :applause: :applause: :applause: Peg
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Postby satch » Mon Jun 02, 2008 10:26 pm

What size is going to be? Looks alittle short to me, love the burned router bit, spray on some oven cleaner, the foaming stuff, let it set about 5 min, then wash with water, lube it, and your ready to rock some more 8)
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Postby looped » Mon Jun 02, 2008 10:33 pm

satch wrote:What size is going to be? Looks alittle short to me, love the burned router bit, spray on some oven cleaner, the foaming stuff, let it set about 5 min, then wash with water, lube it, and your ready to rock some more 8)


69.5x43.5x28 it will serve as a cargo hauler and my test run before making a larger one.

the burned router bit is because the first cut using a pattern was using a 1/8th inch pattern, the gap between the bearing and the blade got the rough end of that cut. despite the looks it does the job fine. and yes thats a drill stop holding the bearing in place, the collar that came with it didnt hold.


should i oil the cutting surface of that bit? i didnt think it would do anything besides slow the rust if it is going to happen.
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Postby bdosborn » Mon Jun 02, 2008 10:36 pm

Where did you get the white draw latches? I think I'm using the same taillights as you are. I always seem to burn up my router bits too.
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Postby looped » Mon Jun 02, 2008 10:54 pm

bdosborn wrote:Where did you get the white draw latches? I think I'm using the same taillights as you are. I always seem to burn up my router bits too.
Bruce



the latches came from ebay heres a link to a current auction from seller


the bit despite the discoloration still cuts like new,, and being in the 15.00 range it wont hurt too bad when it gives up the ghost.

As for the lights, side markers and the bit et al, if you want links to them i can compile a list for ya


one thing not shown in the pics is the lift handles i got for the galley lid, it matches well with the tail lights and was only 1.99 at ikea :)
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Postby satch » Mon Jun 02, 2008 11:00 pm

Just spray alittle wd-40, and wipe dry, the oven cleaner just removes the "gum" and pitch from the bit, helps cut alittle better. but if it gets too dull, well, no cleaning is going to help 8)
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Postby looped » Mon Jun 02, 2008 11:22 pm

thanks for the info on the bit maintenance. how long does a bit last under typical circumstances?
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Postby satch » Mon Jun 02, 2008 11:35 pm

A good carbide bit should last a good while. I've been using some for years, but, if you abuse it, i.e. use too much force, or use it at too high of speeds, it cuts it life down. You will notice it getting harder to cut when it's ending its life. Also keep in mind if your using cheaper bits, keep an eye on the shank, especially the 1/4" ones, under heavy use the shank can bend and you may not notice it until it chops up your lumber.I learned that the hard way. 8)
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Postby looped » Mon Jun 02, 2008 11:57 pm

hmm my skil router only has one speed. it also doesnt take much force to move it although sometimes it jumps like its hitting a soft spot in the wood.

I figure if it lasts this build i will have gotten my moneys worth out of it. certainly easier than my one speed jigsaw.
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Postby satch » Tue Jun 03, 2008 7:22 am

Most routers are single speed, that's why you should take it easy. There are after market speed controls out there. I believe hf carries them, I know Woodcraft does.
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Postby doug hodder » Tue Jun 03, 2008 8:41 am

Didn't see it mentioned...but you can always take your bits into a competent saw shop and have them sharpened. It's worth it for the few bucks over the aggravation and burned wood. Doug
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Postby looped » Sat Jun 28, 2008 12:48 am

as my sig says i keep forgetting the camera.

the inner walls are 90% built.. the poplar spars are cut. seeing that i am mounting the lights high off the frame i will be running a continuous ground and will be using the trailer type splicers to tap the loom for the lights also will be having access panels at the junctions should a light break or need some attention.


Good News! i now have a variable speed jigsaw.. the difference is night and day compared to the single speed number and the roller guide is a great help as well!

a friend is moving from minna sohta back to dallas area and the moving truck was dropped off at my friends house for us to unload overnight.. well her stuff was held to the front of the truck bed with some plywood and stretcher bars.. seeing that they were the only plywood sheets in the truck i am guessing that she had to buy them,, so we have 2 semi new sheets of 3/8 ply to play with. one will come in handy for making a copy of the inner wall for the 3rd support when the inner skin is applied and the other for another outer profile when making the edging.

aside from the 2 sheets (maybe 3) of bendy birch for the outer skin and the edging material i have all i need to get this done,, as soon as i get my TARDIS fixed i might actually have more time to actually get this done..

this 30 minutes of working on it a few times a week is getting torturous..

One running change has been made. i was going to do the overlapping hatch sides like on the lil diner project but after some milling around on the idea i saw that i am not quite ready for that method.. i will be getting some of the T molding to do the hatch like the gen benroy.. i am thinking of getting it a lil wider than needed to bend the lip over a bit on an english wheel to make a better seal as well.



also i will be making the hatch spars in a way that i think will almost guarantee no flexback. with the lowest part of the radius being a 5 1/4" radii this was a concern to me..


i will be getting pics soon,, i just gotta remember to tote the camera with me. i swear, i would forget my own head if it wasnt attached to my shoulders.
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Postby del » Sat Jun 28, 2008 1:04 am

looped wrote:as my sig says i keep forgetting the camera.

the inner walls are 90% built.. the poplar spars are cut. seeing that i am mounting the lights high off the frame i will be running a continuous ground and will be using the trailer type splicers to tap the loom for the lights also will be having access panels at the junctions should a light break or need some attention.


Good News! i now have a variable speed jigsaw.. the difference is night and day compared to the single speed number and the roller guide is a great help as well!

a friend is moving from minna sohta back to dallas area and the moving truck was dropped off at my friends house for us to unload overnight.. well her stuff was held to the front of the truck bed with some plywood and stretcher bars.. seeing that they were the only plywood sheets in the truck i am guessing that she had to buy them,, so we have 2 semi new sheets of 3/8 ply to play with. one will come in handy for making a copy of the inner wall for the 3rd support when the inner skin is applied and the other for another outer profile when making the edging.

aside from the 2 sheets (maybe 3) of bendy birch for the outer skin and the edging material i have all i need to get this done,, as soon as i get my TARDIS fixed i might actually have more time to actually get this done..

this 30 minutes of working on it a few times a week is getting torturous..

One running change has been made. i was going to do the overlapping hatch sides like on the lil diner project but after some milling around on the idea i saw that i am not quite ready for that method.. i will be getting some of the T molding to do the hatch like the gen benroy.. i am thinking of getting it a lil wider than needed to bend the lip over a bit on an english wheel to make a better seal as well.



also i will be making the hatch spars in a way that i think will almost guarantee no flexback. with the lowest part of the radius being a 5 1/4" radii this was a concern to me..


i will be getting pics soon,, i just gotta remember to tote the camera with me. i swear, i would forget my own head if it wasnt attached to my shoulders.
I used to have that excuse, but my new cell phone has a camera, and hey it take ok pics for a digital camera.

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Postby looped » Tue Jul 08, 2008 12:46 am

okay worked on it some more today, the walls are built.

the router bit is showing that a rookie is using it (still cuts fine).

the aluminum for when i mount to the walls to the floor is drilled (not shaped yet)

click these for larger versions as they are just thumbnails..

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more comical anecdotes to follow.
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