Cubby Spar Question(s)

[IraRat]

After reading this thread and thinking it over, I too will use Bruce's method. Specifically, I'll install a 3/4" thick header, then the skin, then the spars doubled up. I'm not sure about the brackets. I think as long as drive long screws to tie the spars to the plywood sides, I should be OK.

Besides eliminating the notching of the interior skin it also provides additional glueing / nailing, surface when I mount my exterior roof skin.

It's amazing how many of these design decision, I'm making at the last minute.

Since my walls aren't up yet but READY to go up, I was thinking about doing those headers on the saw horses.

I guess the most logical way is to use 3/4 ply, but who the heck wants to buy and shlep another piece of THAT stuff home just for this? I have two 10' lengths of unused 1 by 4 (3/4 by 3 1/2), because I misbought. So couldn't I use that? How far from the edge do you think the header has to come down? I mean, the minimum width of the header?

I'm going with the brackets because I think they'll give me a surer position on those spars. I still haven't made a roof skin decision yet, but I sure want to make sure that those spars are flush with the edge of the walls.

Also, working alone, how the heck am I going to hold the spar in position while INSIDE the cabin, and screw it from the OUTSIDE to attach? It seems like these brackets are a few bucks well spent.

And right on about these last-minute design decisions. It DOES pay to procrastinate!!!

[bdosborn]

I guess the most logical way is to use 3/4 ply, but who the heck wants to buy and shlep another piece of THAT stuff home just for this? I have two 10' lengths of unused 1 by 4 (3/4 by 3 1/2), because I misbought. So couldn't I use that? How far from the edge do you think the header has to come down? I mean, the minimum width of the header?

That's what I used for the straight runs because I had some leftover as well. I used leftover 3/4" plywood for the curved portion. If I were to do it again, I would run a rabbet along the edge that is 1-1/2"+1/8" down the wall for the ceiling and spars. Then the spars and the ceiling can sit in the rabbet and you don't need trim between the inside wall and the ceiling. Its hard to find trim that will follow the front curve that looks nice.
Here's a quick sketch of what I'm thinking:
http://home.comcast.net/~bdosborn/tear/CubbyWallDetail.pdf
I think this is how Steve did it and his looks great.

Also, working alone, how the heck am I going to hold the spar in position while INSIDE the cabin, and screw it from the OUTSIDE to attach? It seems like these brackets are a few bucks well spent.

A 4' pipe clamp is what I used to locate everything before I added the screws or hangers. You can plumb up the walls by carefully measuring for each spar length at each location. I took a lot of the variations in my roof width out this way.
Bruce

[toypusher]

Here's a couple of pics of how I am doing it.




I used a full sized template and just cut it 1 3/8" smaller than the full profile to allow the inside ceiling and the spars to set on top of the ledge that I created with the framing. Just put the pieces in place with screws, put the template in place and used a router with flush trim bit (top roller guide) and trimmed the final shape. Then unscrewed them and put back on with gorilla glue.

Kerry

[bdosborn]

I used a full sized template and just cut it 1 3/8" smaller than the full profile to allow the inside ceiling and the spars to set on top of the ledge that I created with the framing. Just put the pieces in place with screws, put the template in place and used a router with flush trim bit (top roller guide) and trimmed the final shape. Then unscrewed them and put back on with gorilla glue.
Kerry

I like that better than my idea. Much simpler to build. I'll do that on the *next* trailer.
Bruce

[toypusher]

Thanks Bruce! I forgot to say that I will put the inside skin on and use a trim bit in the router to flush cut it for a perfect fit also. (I hope)