First Post Lots of ?s

[calumet]

Hi.
First post. I found this site a few days ago when I decided to build add an air conditioned sleeping quarter to my kayak hauling trailer project. Now it is going to be a TD with the addition of a roof rack for the kayaks. I have done a lot of reading using the search tool but I am sure some of the issues have been covered before. Maybe some of you remember where the approved solution posts are and can point me there but I apologize in advance.

Oh, yeah; I plan to start building tomorrow for use on the 26th of this month. That’s right;12 days! Very basic, no cabinets, etc. and it’s ok if it doesn’t come out perfect cause I’m already hooked and know I will be building more in the future. 12 full days….I am currently unemployed which also reads “on the cheap”.

I am debating whether to use a lumber frame with ¼” ply, ¾”foam, and 1/8”ply, or welding a 1” square tube frame and covering with 30 gage sheet metal, ¾” foam and 1/8” ply. I am more comfortable working with wood.
Will there be any weight/cost savings with the metal frame and sheet metal covering? Was planning on riveting the metal to the frame. I assume that a metal frame would not have to have any lumber and the floor could be attached directly to the flat trailer frame. Would ½” plywood be ok? Would the shiny sheet metal reflect the sun or turn the TD into a giant oven? We are talking Texas coast with AC running only at night. Would plywood painted white be much cooler?
Does anyone know of plans like the Benroy that address a metal frame?

I have read where many have refined their construction process after building a couple to make it easier, faster cheaper etc. Have any of these refinements made it to a format that could be incorporated into the Benroy plans.

I am building on an older dilly boat trailer that was designed for a 14’ boat. The frame is 4’ wide and the fenders extend 2.75” above the frame. I would like to build a 5x10 and can easily weld 6“ extensions to both trailer sides. What about moving the TD slightly forward on the trialer so that the wheel recess would be in the gallery and offsetting the weight distribution by hauling some heavier items in the gallery? Would it be easier to lengthen the axel? An alternative would be to build above the fenders by building up the frame height with lumber but this would increase the overall height causing more wind drag. This leads me to another question.

What happens to the wind as it leaves the bed of the truck? Does it strike the trailer lower than the top of the tailgait or is it forced up? Does the leading angle of the TD make a big difference in wind resistance. Logically, one would think so but some brief study of fluid dynamics has shown that fluids can act counter intuitively. I was thinking of making the front angle more wind friendly than the Benroy appears but does it really matter and if so, what is the magic angle and where does it start in relation to height of tailgate. That, is assuming the three to three and one-half feet of tongue length. At TD height of 48” plus trailer, the top is only going to be slightly lower than the truck cab.

There are a lot of questions here so please let me know if I need to post differently, brake it up into different topics, etc. But most of all, Thanks in advance for the help and information!

[MrBuzz]

That's a tight schedule...especially if you are building the trailer!
Skip the framed walls...go with 1/2 plywood (saves time and $$$), build in shelves not cabinets and paint the exterior....you just might get it done in time.
Do your homework ahead of time so you don't end up re-engineering when you should be building.
I used a Harbor Freight trailer and had mine campable in less than 6 weeks....a second one could be faster than that.

[Miriam C.]

Everything you glue has to dry. I am with the solid walls. You can always come back and insulate and frame.

Metal or wood is pretty much which ever you are most proficient with given the time frame.

Your feet won't know the wheels are under and if you frame the floor you will only a couple of inches sticking up.


Oh and

[calumet]

Thanks guys! And, thanks for the welcome.
Solid wall does sound like the way to go. ½” plywood is strong enough for support? This sites generic Benroy plans call for ¾” for walls and flooring. I like the money/ weight savings of the ½”. Can the floor go with ½” as well? The plans also call for a lumber sub floor. Is this only for anchoring the sides? What about bolting plywood directly to trailer and then bolting sides to trailer? Less weight and lower overall camper. I am sure there is probably a problem with this even if it weren’t for lessening the wheel well intrusion into the foot area of the sleep cabin.

[mikeschn]

Yes, you can use 1/2" for the floor and the walls. I've since started the Generic ET, which uses 1/2" and it's plenty strong. See my pics here...

http://www.mikenchell.com/Generic_ET_Photo_Album/

Mike...

P.S. Welcome to the forum.

[kate]

I have just started a build with a homemade trailer as well. I can't speak to how it will hold up only what I have done ... The frame of my trailer is angle iron and my floor sits directly on it with no subfloor frame. I used 3/4 since it was kinda structural in this case. My side walls are on the outside of the angle iron and I used carriage bolts (5 on each side) to bolt the sides directly to the trailer. My floor and sides never actually touch. If I get my act together I will post some photos if you are interested.

[tinksdad]

Yes, you can use 1/2" for the floor and the walls. I've since started the Generic ET, which uses 1/2" and it's plenty strong. See my pics here...

http://www.mikenchell.com/Generic_ET_Photo_Album/

Mike...

P.S. Welcome to the forum.

THANKS Mike!!! You just answered a question I've been contemplating in my mind. I was going to use 3/4 ply with a lot of it cut away to make my frame walls rather than trying to piece together all the 1x stock and deal with the compound cuts, joining the pieces, etc. (kind of a skeleton). Now I think I can use 1/2" skinned on both sides. It's only gonna be three seasonal, so I can skip the insulation unless they make a 1/2" sheet.

A 1/4" here, a 1/4" there.....it's all gonna add up in the end!!!