Attaching floor to frame + one more question?????

[SaGR]

I'd have to go back and measure but I think I spaced them every 2' all the way around.

[S. Heisley]

Thanks!

[SaGR]

I'll check this weekend and post back but I think that's correct.

We also sealed between the floor and the frame with a silicone based roof sealant.

[shoeman]

On this same subject, I used 2"x2" tubing for my frame. How did you folks that used square tubing make the attachment? Do I drill holes through the frame and through-bolt the floor that way? The idea of putting holes in the frame like that scares me.
Anyone?????

[shoeman]

Anyone?????????

[S. Heisley]

I would think that drilling holes all the way through tubing might allow water to get in and have a hard time getting out. That would mean rust would be a problem.

Idea: Would those self-drilling types of bolts work so that you would only have to go through the top layer of metal and leave the bottom of the tube closed? Do you have some areas that aren't tubes where you could run some extra bolts to attach locking nuts to as well as the self-drilling ones, for safety's sake? If not, could you add some areas for that, maybe inside the corners of the frame?

Just a thought....

[tinksdad]

When I used to work in the body shop for a major urban transit company, the only thing we ever used to mount the floors to the framing was the self tapping elevator bolts. The floors on most buses are nothing more than 3/4" plywood attached to metal framing. A lot like a TD only 40 - 45' long. We used the ones with the square drive rather than phillips head...... just because they went in easier and didn't strip the drive bit as often.

You would be surprised to see how little actual framing there is under one of those big buses. The side and roof skins play a very integral part in their structural integrity!!

[del]

On this same subject, I used 2"x2" tubing for my frame. How did you folks that used square tubing make the attachment? Do I drill holes through the frame and through-bolt the floor that way? The idea of putting holes in the frame like that scares me.
Anyone?????

I have seen a short piece of angle welded to the frame with a hole drilled through that. One side of the angle being flush with the top of the square tubing.

del

[Juneaudave]

I used "self tapping deck bolts" that are commonly used on trailers. You just drill through your floor into the top of the tubing and screw them in. They self tap and work very, very well. I spaced them about a foot apart on the perimeter and every so often in the field. I think Rich turned me on to them and somewhere there is a post about them.

[tinksdad]

As an aside to my earlier response....

I don't have to contend with square tubing, my HF trailer uses channel. But all I am going to use is elevator bolts through the all ready existing pre-drilled holes in the cross members and side rails. Probably 5/16's or 3/8's.... depends on what I can find.

[shoeman]

I used "self tapping deck bolts" that are commonly used on trailers. You just drill through your floor into the top of the tubing and screw them in. They self tap and work very, very well. I spaced them about a foot apart on the perimeter and every so often in the field. I think Rich turned me on to them and somewhere there is a post about them.

By used on trailers, do you mean stuff like we mess with, or 18 wheeler type trailers? I'm just trying to figure out where I might find some.
I agree with Mr. Heisley that putting holes through both sides of the tubing is asking for trouble down the road, along with providing a stress riser that may develop cracks with enough pounding.

[Juneaudave]

You can google "trailer floor screws" or "trailer deck screws" and find them online. You might find them locally too. They are for small trailers.

[shoeman]

OK! Maybe the trailer seller I ordered my axle through will have them since they also manufacture trailers. You guys rock!

[S. Heisley]

Okay, I think I need a lesson in life, Mr. Shoeman. I understand all the rules to live by except: "Clear liquors for summer, brown liquors for winter." Huh? What's that one?

[shoeman]

Okay, I think I need a lesson in life, Mr. Shoeman. I understand all the rules to live by except: "Clear liquors for summer, brown liquors for winter." Huh? What's that one?

At the risk of going off topic, here in Maine, like other northern areas, we have two distinct season temperature-wise. The long dark cold days of winter demand a beverage with no ice or voluminous mixers otherwise you get even colder than you already are and have to make more frequent trips to the outhouse (this particular effect applies more to time spent at camp than at home, we do have indoor plumbing in our homes) and for this the brown liquors such as all the scotch/whiskey/bourbon variants work best and provide that lovely initial warm feeling.
Conversely, we suffer heat and humidity like that of a tropical local in the height of summer, so the clear liquors with ice and various mixers provide the cooling and thirst quenching effect needed. Large gin and tonics with lots of lime (my wife prefers vodka and lemons) or an occasional rum concoction serve admirably here. Think India or Hawaii.
There. You asked!