Couple questions from a rookie.

[Hoosier Greg]

Hi guys. Well here I am reporting for duty.

With Chain saw, matic and a pry bar I managed to destroy -disassemble -- the tent trailer I purchased for the frame.
The frame will need little rearranging to make it work .. Me think.
But before I get started with the rearranging I like to know the approximate distance between the center of the hub to the end of the trailer frame. I'm thinking 24-26" The axle I'm working with is of the torsion type that can be moved rearwards easily by welding -gussets ?- to accept the Axel's bolt pattern..It happens to be located, as is, 58" measuring from the rear..

The other question I have is if I should overhang the floor framing by 1/4-1/2 " on each side or should I allow for the sides to rest on the frame ..

I'm undecided whether to build a woody or a skin clad one. It shouldnt matter at this point,right?

Thanking you in advance.
HG.

[mikeschn]

Greg,

You need to look at the balance page in the Design Library. Your axle placement will be determined by the size of the teardrop, and if you have any unusual weights in it.

Mike...

[madjack]

Greg, we allow the side to overhang the frame...this is a question personal aesthetics as much as anything...onna a standard tear(is there any such thing) my rule of thumb is 36" for an 8' long body and add 3-4"s for each foot over that, this depends greatly on what you are adding to the galley and how you load your gear...the balance worksheet in the design library can help with this...
madjack

[Hoosier Greg]

Thanks a bunch guys. Asking me to figure anything from the ballance work sheet is like asking me what 2+2 equals..

Madjack I think I'll go by what you suggested......
How much over hang do you think 1/2-1.0". I have plenty of room for wheel clearance...

By the way .I intend to make a 5x10' TD.
Thanks again.
Greg.

[madjack]

Greg, RULE OF THUMB ONLY...on a 10"er, WITH a tongue box I would go 44"s, without??? how you build and load has a great effect...depending on tow vehicle, loading the tongue a little heavy, is better than too light

...on the sides, we connect our sides to the frame...we cut the floor to be 1/4th(1/8th per side for wiggle room) wider than the frame and then use some shims made outta formica, then connect the side to the frame...in other words, keep the sides tight to the frame...be sure to seal the bottom edge of the walls very well...we use epoxy for this as we do for most everything else....
madjack

[Hoosier Greg]

Gotcha..
I think I got little too ahead of myself worrying about hub positioning when I don't have the profile drawn yet.. From looking at few members albums I realized that the floor plan along with the curvature of the nose and tail will be the determining factor as to the length of my trailer frame.. Theoretically if I were to buy a 4x10' sheet of plywood to utilize for my walls , the trailer frame depending on the trailers profile could be as short as 8' or little less..
My trailer frame now is 9' 9". Which means --I'm guessing-- I will have to shorten it . Yes? Or utilize the extra length for a storage box up front..

Greg.

[madjack]

Gotcha..
I think I got little too ahead of myself worrying about hub positioning when I don't have the profile drawn yet.. From looking at few members albums I realized that the floor plan along with the curvature of the nose and tail will be the determining factor as to the length of my trailer frame.. Theoretically if I were to buy a 4x10' sheet of plywood to utilize for my walls , the trailer frame depending on the trailers profile could be as short as 8' or little less..
My trailer frame now is 9' 9". Which means --I'm guessing-- I will have to shorten it . Yes?

Greg.

...as you stated, it depends...on my 9' camper the frame is 4.5"s short of that to account for the under curve on the front...

[Hoosier Greg]

Things are starting to clear up a bit. It's a start ,eh?

I'll get busy today or tomorrow and see if I can unlock the profile I have hidden in my brain... That'll be a good for few &*^%$(
Thanks a gain Madjack.

[madjack]

Greg, intense preplanning is the key to a successful build...of course, all of your plans will change as you actually start to build
madjack

[Hoosier Greg]

Greg, intense preplanning is the key to a successful build...of course, all of your plans will change as you actually start to build
madjack

As I'm finding out.. It's the humbling experience what makes it fun.
Thanks.

[Jst83]

Welcome Greg, from another Hoosier We're sure growing in numbers.

I see that question wise you've been taken care of which is good cause I'm the last one to answer frame questions. I did build on a Pop up frame also, but all I did was rip it down to the frame and start building. It's worked good so far.

You'll find lots of answers on here to all the things you'll run into.

We've got a gathering coming up in August in Madison, you should think about coming for a visit. It would give you a chance to meet a bunch of nice people and get some good ideas. Check out the Midwest section for details

[Hoosier Greg]

Thanks Scott.

I peeked at you album. You weren't kidding when you said you built on the Pop up trailers frame, wow! talk about comfort..

I'll look forward to meeting you and Kurt at Madison.. The wife --Debbie- and I have the date marked on the Calendar, we'll see you then...

Greg.

[Hoosier Greg]

Hi Guys.

Boy this place is addictive. If I hang out here much longer I might even learn to spell
Since I'm here again I might as well run few ideas by you and see what you think.
I drew and cut the profile out yesterday . I was undecided between the profile of Kurt from Indiana's and Sonetpro's . I hope he does not mind,since his is closer to the size I want to build..
Anyhow. I been kicking the idea around that maybe I can use the same material we use in the trade to cover less than ideal pitched roofs for my build. I think I can use the rubber --one piece -- over a 1/8" plywood, glued ..
The Second haired brained Idea I got is that maybe I can skin the walls with a roll or two of Aluminum coils stock we use for trimming houses with.

Unfortunately the coil stock comes only in 24" widths. I have a brake that I could easily hem the joints . If I run the coil up and down I will end with five seams. If it does not look asthetically pleasing I might do wood strips over the seams and have the wife do her magic with a faux wood grain --she's a faux finisher-- .

Well ? am I carzy enough for ya' guys,or what.
Opinions Please..
HG.

[madjack]

...what color is the rubber...is it the EDPM rubber roofing material and UV treated it would probably work...if it is white, if I remember correctly it is prone to staining and can be hard to clean(the stain)...the Al flashing idea might work but it is usually very thin and the many seams may not be to your liking but would probably work....
madjack

[Hoosier Greg]

...what color is the rubber...is it the EDPM rubber roofing material and UV treated it would probably work...if it is white, if I remember correctly it is prone to staining and can be hard to clean(the stain)...the Al flashing idea might work but it is usually very thin and the many seams may not be to your liking but would probably work....
madjack

Yes the color is Black, 25 year stuff.. Armorol might shine it up a bit,me think.
On second thought I might run one seam from end to end with the coil stock. By the way the thickness is .017-.018"..Hmmm.

I forgo to mention that about eight years ago or so I built a teardrop dog kenel trailer out of plywood clad with the same aluminum coil stock. Other than gravel dents on the nose of the trailer,all else seems to be holding up well. That trailer's been to Oregon several times,ND<NM<NEB<AZ<NM>OK>MT and WY on hunts....

You did tell me that I will change my mind many times,right? you know your stuff buddy.
Thanks.
HG.