Rust in my frame.

[TD_Dodger]

well guys i spent all this week taking off the rust off the top of my frame where the floor is attached. the only problem is that fortunetly the frame is so thick and i got to it before it could do alot of damage. there are some areas where some of the frame was being eatin by the rust, you can tell a few specks on it but nothing major. i was wondering if some areas that i grind off the rust but there is still some left and i decide to place primer on it, will it still do its damage? also i got most of the rust off with a grinding wheel and a wround wire brush like i said most of it came off. now i do have a sand blaster on the way so i do plan on using the sand blaster but im just wondering in case i dont get all the complete rust off and only some specs are left what would happend on the long run.
can any one help please?

http://tnttt.com/album_ ... c_id=37438

the curb side part of the frame behind the wheel is where it was being eatin the worst buts its not bad enough to panic i hope

[doug hodder]

For what it's worth...surface rust isn't so bad, clean it up, prime and paint. If it shows some serious cancer in the steel, that might need to be ground out and taken care of or carefully checked. I'd check the welds to make sure they are complete and no holes left that would allow water to enter the tubing, if there is any, especially if there is no way for it to get out. Looks like it's constructed in angle. It all appears like just surface rust to me.

Do you have any idea on where it spent most of it's life? Kinda looks like it was never painted, pretty evenly rusted all over, but that might be due to your efforts. Since you're in Ca. (relatively dry climate) I'd just get it off and prime and paint if it's in good condition. Wipe it down with lacquer thinner before priming. I'd shoot a good epoxy primer on it too. Another option is Por 15 makes a great primer that will go over rusted materials. If it spent it's entire life on the coast....I'd check it out closer, salt is really tough on iron. Just my 2 cents worth. Others may have varying opinions. Doug

[TD_Dodger]

well the thing is it spent 14 years in the back yard of my uncle and he lived in chino california up to his death last year.it all is mainly surface rust, the welding parts look ok but i havent checked the bottome part. on the curbside wheel area it looked like it was being eating but its not to bad, i grinded it off and wire brushed it and most of the rust came off. im gonna try the sand blaster and see how that goes i hope its not damaged too much and if it is i can always have someone weld a new piece to it right? ill get soem close up pictures of the bad area tommorow

[doug hodder]

I wouldn't sweat it...you're going to be OK...Looks like a solid frame, just needs some attention and a good paint job. Chino is pretty dry, rust is rust...rot is something else. If you decide to blast depending on how much air CFM you have behind it, cover the hubs with something and don't hit them, especially where the hub seals on the axle.... ....Doug

[Mark Freedom]

you might look into this
http://www.por15.com/faq.asp

[TD_Dodger]

WHAT ARE THE HUBS AND WHERE ARE THEY LOCATED?I CAN GRID THE AXLE PARTS WITH THE GRINDER WHEEL. HOWMUCH AIR CFM WOULD I NEED AND CAN I GET THE SAND AT HOME DEPOT?

[Kevin A]

WHAT ARE THE HUBS AND WHERE ARE THEY LOCATED?I CAN GRID THE AXLE PARTS WITH THE GRINDER WHEEL. HOWMUCH AIR CFM WOULD I NEED AND CAN I GET THE SAND AT HOME DEPOT?

These are your hubs. As Doug mentioned, you want to avoid blasting any sand inside them. It will destroy the bearings.

[TD_Dodger]

THANK YOU SIR SO ILL HAVE TO GRIND THESE WITH THE WIRE WHEEL.

[doug hodder]

You'll probably want to pull the hubs and check the bearings and regrease anyway. While it's apart just clean up your axle stubs and wrap them up with duct tape and a rag and don't blast directly on them. If you have a small home type blaster like I do, it's pretty touchy on just using HD play sand in it. I can only do small parts I usually get a bag of good screened media. If it's more of an industrial type blaster with a large diameter nozzle, it can handle the play sand. Doug

[TD_Dodger]

THE ONE I GOT IS A CHEAP ONE FROM A WEBSITE I WAS TOLD HERE FROM FREIGHT TOOLS. I HAVENT RECIEVED IT SO I DONT KNOW YET. WHERE DO YOU GET YOUR STUFF FROM? AND WHEN YOU SAY SMALL PARTS DOES THAT MEAN YOU CANT SPRAY FOR A VERY LONG PERIODS OF TIME?

[doug hodder]

I think you'll find it isn't going to do what you want if your plan is to blast the entire frame. That's going to need a larger industrial type of blaster, like a trailer mounted one with a large hopper. If you want to do some small areas it'll work for you. I haven't bought the sand in years. It was a place that catered to specialized construction materials. I'd call around to some aggregate businesses or ask at a steel suppler where to get it. Doug

[TD_Dodger]

well what i was going to do is go over the frame with the wire wheel and then spray the small areas where i cant get them off that well.

[doug hodder]

Your set then! You can also screen the play sand with some steel window screening and that will help with the big chunks. Doug

[TD_Dodger]

huh? im sorry buddy but you lost me with the steel window. so i can use the play sand? this is what i ordered.

GRAVITY FEED SPOT BLASTER GUN
GRAVITY FEED SPOT BLASTER GUN

The top mounted hopper is perfect for spot rust removal on larger parts that wont fit into a cabinet. Fully adjustable media flow valve gives you precise control.

* Heavy duty zinc gun body
* Steel nozzle
* Lightweight composite hopper holds 20 oz. of blast media


Weight: 1.8 lbs.
Abrasive media sold separately. 90 PSI operating pressure; 1/4"-18 NPT air inlet with 20 mesh screen; Overall dimensions: 10" L x 3" W x 11" H;

ITEM 95793-4VGA

this is the link http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=95793

[Mark Freedom]

I still think por 15 will save you a bunch of work.

With the sandblaster those little ones only do about a 1/4 inch at a time, you'll have a lot of time and sand in that.
Keep in mind too that the play sand is a silica sand and causes cancer, wear protective clothing and a respirator.

If I was doing it, I'd use a grinder with a wire wheel, and hit areas I couldn't get with that with a hand held wire brush, and then apply the por 15, and then a good chassis paint over that.
It would probably last your lifetime.